Dove was one of the aoud pioneers (it can also be spelled "oud"), launching the first of his smoky fragrances in 2011. Other best-sellers, such as Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Intensa d’Oud, didn’t come to the market until a year later. Tom Ford’s Oud Fleur was launched in 2013.
— Read more at Roja Dove, 'the nose', on creating a Western aoud cult at The Telegraph. Tom Ford, of course, launched Oud Wood in 2007, and did M7 for Yves Saint Laurent in 2002. I was personally so sick of the avalanche of oud scents by 2011 that I started the please-no-more-oud tag that very year.
I’v not heard the terms innovative, pioneering or original applied much to Dove’s perfumes. Other positive adjectives, perhaps, but not those!
I basically am ignoring the line, so couldn’t even say — maybe they’re fantastic.
We don’t have them here but I did smell one or two briefly when I was away and thought they were really nice; just so out of my price range…
What I meant was that I have heard about them being very well constructed and out of the best materials, but almost deliberately derivative. At least with his first range he was trying to make the perfect oriental, the perfect chypre, etc etc…
Most likely it has moved on from there
Oh, did not mean to doubt you or contradict you! I have not heard they’re pioneering either. I just meant I can’t claim much personal experience. I think I’ve tried 1 of them.
Oud is quite the promiscuous virgin ingredient judging by the number of people in the perfume industry who claim to have popularised it, modernised it, used it first, bought it to the Western market or discovered it! Honestly. How people think they can get away with making such grand statements and the uninformed journalists who will reprint such claims without checking their provenance is astounding. M7 was my first introduction to Oud and then I remember doing an order of samples from Montale, after which I became very wary of the note due to the very strong rough nature of some of those scents. That was back in the early 2000s so much earlier that 2011.
Most newspapers treat the beauty section differently than the “hard news”…there is little or no fact checking.
And lets not forget 10 Corso Como (1999) & Rose Aoud by M. Micallef (2000). Both contain Oud, so aren’t those the real pioneers? Whats also quite funny, is perfume makers suddenly “revealing” that one of their fragrances from way back contains Oud. I remember Caron saying their Yatagan (1978) actually features a tiny amount of Oud, and Serge Lutens’ Cuir Mauresque from 1996 suddenly features “Oud” as a note. So not only do people claim to have pioneered Oud, they also claim that one of their classics features Oud, so they get more attention.
Didn’t Ormonde Jayne say she intro’d oud to the perfume industry in an interview?
While I have had more than enough oud, Honey Oud by Floris is pretty good. Their Leather Oud ain’t bad either.
Good memory!
https://nstperfume.com/2014/10/29/were-craftsmen/
Thanks for the link:).
This was one of the quotes I was thinking of when I commented that many people seem to be taking the credit for being oud pioneers!