I recently reviewed PC01 from Biehl Parfumkustwerke, since I felt I hadn't been paying enough attention to this brand. It wasn't quite "me," but I went on to sample PC02, which has turned out to be more my style. Like PC01, it was developed by perfumer Patricia Choux, and its official description reads "circus and cotton candy. giggling butterflies in the belly. maximum high spirit."
PC02 has "risky but delicious" top notes of bergamot, cardamom, and spices, a "powdery, spicy, and flowery" heart of peony, Turkish delight, and freesia, and a "very sensual, warm, and erotic" base of blonde wood, patchouli, tonka bean, honey, and musk. If you're guessing that this is a sweet fragrance: yes, it is. If you really don't care for gourmands, you probably won't fall for PC02. If, on the other hand, you used to wear Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum, Hanae Mori Butterfly or Parfumerie Generale Brulure de Rose and now you're looking for something just a little more subtle, PC02 should appeal to you.
Overall, I think of PC02 as an "angora sweater fragrance": soft and fluffy and warm, with sex-kitten connotations. It opens big, with clouds of powdered sugar and marshmallow, a puff of cardamom, and just a thread of fruity bergamot running through all this confectionery. There's an almost buttery tonka note that reminds me of popcorn, but it gives way to plenty of honeyed almond and vanilla musk. PC02 calms down after an hour: it's still sweet and cushy, but it doesn't feel like the "circus" or "butterflies" anymore. Its dessert-y identity is gradually tempered by a soft wood note and by the way the musk becomes more of a skin scent. Remember that mention of Turkish delight in the list of notes? Yes, indeed.
I wouldn't necessarily wear PC02 to the office, or on a hot day when it could feel cloying, but it's just right for casual wear and weekends in cooler weather. Once its initial spun-sugar fanfare dies down, it does have a cozy feeling, and it makes me happy. (I've nearly drained my sample vial, which is always a good sign.) I find it a little more interesting than Jo Malone Rose Water & Vanilla, another second-generation loukhoum fragrance, and slightly more delicate. I have a feeling it would garner a few compliments if I wore it to a party or other social gathering, so maybe I'll try that soon.
Biehl Parfumkunstwerke PC02 is available as 100 ml Eau de Parfum ($195). For purchasing information, see the listing for Biehl Parfumkunstwerke under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image is turkish delight [cropped] by Heidi De Vries at flickr; some rights reserved.
Sounds like something I wouldn’t really like. Gourmands are not my strong point.
I feel as though I should put a disclaimer at the top of every review I write: “Please be advised that I do like powdery gourmands and old-fashioned florals.”
No… that would be too much. I like powdery scents, especially powdery irises, but foody notes were never within my liking. But there are exceptions.
I tried a sample of this a few years ago, very impressed with it …a classy gourmand that swirled around me for about 8 hours. Definitely a winter friendly fragrance. Had in various shopping carts to buy but never went through with a full bottle purchase, will definitely re-consider for next Winter. Others in the biel range I have actually bought are eo01 and MB02, also liked the greenness of gs02, but for an even better green absinthe perfume I ended up with By Kilian A Taste of Heaven.
You’ve tried more than I have! I’ll be working my way through a few more samples soon. I agree that it’s perfect for a winter day, worn with a fluffy pastel scarf.
Just wondering, how does PC02 compare to Kilian’s “Love” and L’Artisan’s “Traversee du Bosphore?” I immediately thought of these two (of my favorites) when I read your description above.
Hi, Jadednose — Traversee du Bosphore is still my favorite loukhoum-inspired fragrance, because it also includes those leathery/fruity/incensey notes. I really do love that one — it’s my favorite Duchaufour, really. I find this Biehl easier to wear than Kilian’s Love (which I really do need to review one of these days) — most Kilian fragrances feel like a bit “too much” for me. And the Kilian is even more marshmallowy than this one!
I would take gourmands over florals. This sounds appealing to me. I’ll have to hunt down a sample! Great review!
I hope you’ll enjoy it when you find it, Hajusuuri!
This sounds great – I love Traversee du Bosphore.
Oh, me too. And now that we’re into October, I can pull my bottle out from the back of the cupboard again.
would also be curious to know how it compares to “What we do in Paris”?