Fleur de Louis was released by Arquiste in 2011; it is a woody floral with notes of orange blossom, orris and white cedarwood, developed for Arquiste by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, who has created several scents for this house.
Like all Arquiste fragrances, Fleur de Louis takes its inspiration from a historical moment. Its name refers to Louis XIV, the "Sun King" who ruled France from 1643 to 1715. Its story is the first meeting between Louis and his intended wife, Maria Theresa of Spain. In June 1660 the young king and his bride were brought face-to-face "under a newly assembled pavilion of pine and cedarwood on the French-Spanish border,” as Arquiste describes the setting. Fleur de Louis's composition is designed to evoke that meeting place on the Isle of Pheasants, as well as the iris-scented creams and floral waters that were favored by Louis and his courtiers.
I feel as though I'm experiencing this fragrance at just the right time of year, as spring is making way for early summer. On my skin, Fleur de Louis opens with a heady wave of springtime floral notes that remind me of lilac and wisteria, even though neither flower is mentioned in the official description. These powdery-musky blooms and their sharp greenery persist for a while before gradually deepening into a heart of dusty-gray iris and soft, smooth wood notes. The orange blossom note is fleeting, to my nose; it does add a ray of light to the proceedings, but overall, this fragrance is painted in cooler, duskier tones than I expected. It does seem to suggest Louis as a younger monarch, rather than "le Roi Soleil" enthroned in all his glory at Versailles.
Fleur de Louis is not as dramatic as Arquiste's Flor y Canto or Anima Dulcis, but it's more my style, and I'd wear it regularly if I owned a bottle. Like Aleksandr, it has a restrained yet sophisticated presence. It feels like an old-fashioned "perfume," in a good way; the ingredients smell high-quality and the composition is elegant and trend-proof. It's also more feminine than I would have guessed; at least, feminine in twenty-first century terms. I know that tastes have changed over the centuries, and that men commonly wore floral scents in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Louis XIV himself probably would have enjoyed Fleur de Louis just as much as I do.
Arquiste Fleur de Louis is available as 55 ml ($175) Eau de Parfum. For purchasing information, see the listing for Arquiste under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image is Statue de Louis XIV [cropped] via Wikimedia.
This sounds appealing! Would you say the powdery aspect doesn’t persist too much? Can handle some powder, but not a lot.
Checked out Barneys, and the Arquiste candle looks great & out of the ordinary, but not as a blind buy. Will look for the next time I’m in NYC.
Hi, Galbanumgal — It’s definitely not talcum-powdery in a Teint de Neige or Talco Delicato way — it’s just a relatively powdery iris, rather than a very green or metallic iris, if that makes sense!
it does–thanks
Nice review, Jessica! I tested it a week ago at Barney’s and at $100 a bottle I would consider it. Funny how the “not gonna happen” buzzer goes off at some amount pre-determined by who knows what!
A bottle of BdI extrait is the same price, and my cash turns into Monopoly money for that.
This is a lovely scent, but I can’t, or won’t even rationalize the aspiration.
JuiceJones, I know that you mean — and that’s why I wish some brands would offer smaller bottles or travel atomizers of fragrance!
Ah yes, the “not gonna happen” buzzer! I have it with clothes too, and can never tell exactly when, say, a coat wanders past the acceptable amount.
AnnieA, we all have those built-in price thresholds, don’t we?! I know what you mean.
This sounds rather appealing, I must say. Of the Arquiste I have so far only tried Anima Dulcis which I liked but not enough to want to own a bottle. I will finish my sample of it though. I may want to order a sample of this one too.
Lovely review!
Austenfan, do give it a try if you have the chance! It’s very well-done, and it’s traditional in a non-stuffy way.