We had looked at a lot of perfumers, who had presented pie charts to us—what they thought, what the market was like. And then I met a guy who was passionate about a scent, about what was right for the brand, and in that moment, I realized there was going to be a path there.
— Designer John Varvatos on perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Read more at John Varvatos Shares His Creative Process with The Fragrance Foundation at Perfumer & Flavorist.
Hey, carnation lovers. You know who you are. You dream of Caron Poivre Extrait and hoard old bottles of Bellodgia. You lard your linen closet with discs of Roger & Gallet Carnation soap and mourn their discontinued Blue Carnation. You plant red dianthus up your walkway. You put extra clove in your molasses cookies.
I have news. First, I hear on good authority that carnations are making a comeback among chic florists. I’m not talking about fat, stiff grocery store carnations dyed Easter egg colors. I mean real carnations, the little ones pungent with spice…
Sure, I’m in Paris, but I wasn’t planning to buy perfume. I have plenty already. Besides, I’d already bought a pair of sandals and some underthings, and my budget was shot. Then I smelled Le Galion L’Ame Perdue, a chypre that would have been right at home on Rita Hayworth’s dressing table. When I discovered I couldn’t buy it in the U.S., I handed over my credit card. This baby was going home with me.
Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux developed L’Ame Perdue. Its notes include lemon, Sicilian green mandarin, cardamom, coriander seeds, white pepper, datura, Egyptian jasmine, jasmine sambac imperial absolute, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, red lily, cloves, cinnamon, plum, mirabelle, patchouli, amber, benzoin, balsam of Peru, rosewood, vanilla, honey and oak moss.
L’Ame Perdue is a complex, spicy-fruity chypre with an initial hint of skank and miles of earthy glamour…