I’m still playing catch-up with last year’s fragrance releases. (Who am I kidding, I’ll never catch up with 2011 releases, or 2010’s…on and on.) Sisley launched its first men’s perfume last autumn: Eau d’Ikar (a fragrance containing lots of mastic), and I’m just getting around to sampling it.
In addition to mastic, Eau d’Ikar includes fragrance notes of lemon, bergamot, bitter orange, carrot seed, iris, jasmine, herbs and spices, tea, amber, cistus labdanum, sandalwood and vetiver.
Eau d’Ikar opens fresh and lemony, and it reminds me of “original” Monsieur Balmain with its warm and balmy citrus aromas. Next up is a strange — and strangely addictive — accord of orange, mastic, iris and a spicy green/herbal note. By mid-development, Eau d’Ikar reminds me once more of the past: the older versions of Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme. Right before Eau d’Ikar’s base notes arrive, the scent of jasmine mingles with citrus and places my nose firmly in “vintage land.” Eau Sauvage anyone?
Eau d’Ikar’s base has two phases: a sour/tart note emerges first and leads to an (almost) pine-y accord of talcy floral-citrus (reminiscent of the scent of discontinued Floris of London Limes talcum powder mixed with Choward’s Violet Candy). Eau d’Ikar’s extreme dry-down smells of ‘subdued’ vetiver-cistus-mastic and vegetal musk (carrot seed?).
Sisley claims Eau d’Ikar took twenty years to develop. (Stop giggling.) If that unlikely claim is true, it’s a shame so much time produced an unoriginal, mish-mash-perfume — a veritable men’s fragrance “anthology” in a bottle. Eau d’Ikar is not “bad,” just meaningless. Next!
Sisley Eau d’Ikar is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($98/$165); it has minimal sillage and so-so lasting power.
Note: top image of Icarus [altered] via Wikimedia Commons.