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2011 / Browsing by date: August 2011

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 31 August 2011 52 Comments

Serge Lutens Vitriol d'Oeillet

The perfume world is fickle. Though some perfume notes are perennial favorites — bergamot, sandalwood, and petitgrain come to mind — other ingredients become “problematic” over time. Once, Calone was all the rage…then, one day, perhaps due to overuse or a style shift in perfumery, Calone smelled dated. Not that long ago, rose-rich perfumes were considered passé. (Alongside antiquated rose were the scents of oak moss and carnation — suffering not only from associations with old times and ‘old folks,’ but difficult to work with, or re-create, due to IFRA restrictions.) Then, rose had a renaissance, a facelift, an attitude adjustment, and became “young” again, and is used in all manner of mainstream and niche perfumes, including men’s fragrances. Oak moss and carnation are still waiting for their rejuvenation treatments.

So, how do you “update” a dated aroma? How do you transform old-fashioned carnation, that much-maligned flower, associated with death, bad luck and bad taste, into something modern, edgy and desirable? One way would be to make carnation brazen: accent every facet of its scent, amplify its impact with newer, unusual perfume materials, make it bloom in a new way. Another tactic is familiar from the world of food…

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A certain freedom

Posted by Robin on 31 August 2011 8 Comments

Dancer Benjamin Millepied for Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre. Below the jump, le 'making of'.

Update: these ads are no longer available, sorry!

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 31 August 2011 13 Comments

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche perfume

French niche line Maître Parfumeur et Gantier will launch Cuir Fétiche, a new perfume for women, this fall. House perfumer Jean-Paul Millet Lage was inspired by a trip to Millau in southern France in search of new materials for the brand’s line of leather gloves…

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Betsey Johnson Too Too ~ new perfume

Posted by Robin on 31 August 2011 23 Comments

Betsey Johnson Too Too perfume

Betsey Johnson has launched Too Too, her second fragrance under licensing arrangements with InterParfums…

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Online fragrance shopping

Posted by Robin on 31 August 2011 Leave a Comment

New at dillards: Rocawear Evolution.

New at luckyscent: Amouage Honour.

New at sephora: 21 Drops rollerballs.

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