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Guerlain Flora Nymphea ~ brief perfume review

Posted by Robin on 23 March 2010 61 Comments

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora NympheaGuerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea

Flora Nymphéa is the newest addition to the Aqua Allegoria range at Guerlain. The Aqua Allegoria fragrances are meant to showcase nature, and most years Guerlain adds one or two new scents to the series, and then they might axe a few of the older entries at the same time. At the moment, there appear to be five in production; in addition to the new Flora Nymphéa, there are four survivors from the past: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune (both 1999), Mandarine Basilic (2007) and Tiare Mimosa (2009). The packaging has been given an update this year, with new gold labels on the bottles and white outer boxes featuring a simple bee motif.

Flora Nymphéa, developed by Guerlain house perfumer Thierry Wasser, is said to have been inspired by a spring garden, and that's a good fit — it's a soft, dewy floral, even softer and dewier than the "floral mist" that was last year's Idylle. It opens on sharp, slightly herbal-green citrus, but calms very quickly into a demure, spring-like blend of clean honeyed florals (orange blossom and seringa) over a pale woody musk.

Flora Nymphéa is pretty and wearable, if not terribly exciting. If you're looking for a quiet, office-friendly floral, it is absolutely worth a shot. For my part, I rather like the idea but the execution could stand more oomph, and a little more staying power wouldn't hurt either.

Guerlain Flora Nymphéa is available in 75 and 125 ml Eau de Toilette.

Note: image via forums.thefashionspot.com.

Possibly of interest

Guerlain Lys Soleia ~ perfume review
Guerlain Jasminora ~ perfume review
Guerlain Figue Iris & Laurier Reglisse, the 2008 Aqua Allegorias ~ perfume review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: aqua allegoria, guerlain, thierry wasser

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61 Comments

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  1. Joe says:
    23 March 2010 at 1:09 pm

    Thanks for the timely review, R!

    I almost jumped at the offer of a “just in from Paris” split that was going on, but decided I could SO easily wait until this shows up at Sephora (I’m restraining myself… really I am!).

    I’m wondering if “needs more oomph” in March could end up being “just the perfect wisp of a thing” come the heat and humidity of July & August?

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 1:12 pm

      Oh, really think you can wait. I have a feeling this will sell (although I’m often wrong, LOL) because it’s so simple & wearable, but I’m going to be very surprised if any perfumistas find it worth getting excited about. And for myself, I don’t find that honey notes, however mild, always wear well in high heat — this isn’t a “summer tonic” kind of scent like Herba Fresca or Laurier Reglisse or Mandarine Basilic. Actually, I don’t think it’s a good fit with the AA range at all.

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      • Joe says:
        23 March 2010 at 3:01 pm

        I heard that that Tiare Mimosa AA was a candysweet freakshow as well, and didn’t sound like that was a light summery thing either.

        When you said “honeyed floral” I guess you really meant it about the honey… though must say I don’t find it too cloying in the L’Occitane Honey & Lemon.

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        • boojum says:
          23 March 2010 at 3:08 pm

          Pssst…. you should have a sample of the TM, sent along with the Amarige one. If not, tell me and I’ll toss one in your Ninfeo package. I don’t find it sweet…just very floral/girly.

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          • Joe says:
            23 March 2010 at 3:13 pm

            Oops. You’re probably right, and that sounds familiar. I’ll dig through my mountain of vials and look for that. Sample collection has reached red alert level.

          • boojum says:
            23 March 2010 at 3:35 pm

            Likewise. Maybe you told *yourself* it was a freakshow. :D

  2. Zazie says:
    23 March 2010 at 1:24 pm

    It sounds very nice!
    I am not usually a fan of the AA, as I often find them lacking that “oomph!” you mention, but in this case the notes seem to be calling my name….

    As we speak of Guerlain…I don’t know if it is a polite thing to say, because it may sound as a request (but it isn’t!!! It is just…a wish?)…well, here it is: I would love to hear your impressions of some l’Art et la matière perfumes…
    …or maybe you could just lend me that BS detector of yours? ;)

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 1:31 pm

      I reviewed the first 3:

      https://nstperfume.com/2005/12/13/cuir-beluga-rose-barbare-angelique-noire-guerlain-lart-et-la-matiere/

      Plus Iris Ganache:

      https://nstperfume.com/2007/08/27/guerlain-iris-ganache-fragrance-review/

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      • Zazie says:
        23 March 2010 at 1:45 pm

        !
        Maybe I should have just asked you what you think of BDA or CG…
        but I didn’t want to sound that specific!!!
        I was trying to fall in the “general prupose” cathegory…
        Anyway, it is just a stupid curiosity of mine, because I hate lemmings, especially when I have no way to test them in a near future!!!
        Don’t these animals ever get extinct? :)

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        • Robin says:
          23 March 2010 at 2:23 pm

          I really like Bois d’Armenie. At some point I should review it. I never smelled Cruel Gardenia.

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    • Absolute Scentualist says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:30 pm

      I hear you. I’m really excited about Tonka Impériale given the lusciousness that is SDV.

      Robin, thanks for the review and this does sound pretty, but I have so many dewy florals already that I can’t see myself picking it up. It would be worth a sniff were it local, but we aren’t blessed (or cursed, if you ask my credit card) with a Sephora anywhere close and the local Macy’s perfume counter is hilarious.

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      • Robin says:
        23 March 2010 at 2:40 pm

        I find it an odd choice for the AA range given that they just did Idylle as a pillar last year. Oh well. I often don’t understand what direction Guerlain is trying to go in.

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  3. raluca says:
    23 March 2010 at 1:44 pm

    It seems that not many people are impressed with AA Tiare-Mimosa, but for me is the fragrance with the most original personality launched in last years. It is so melancholic, I have butterflies in my stomach when I wear it. But… this is the most seasonal frag ever! It only works for those few weeks at the beginning of spring.

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    • boojum says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:13 pm

      I don’t know that I’d use the word impressed, but I certainly like (and own, and wear!) the Tiare Mimosa.

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      • Joe says:
        23 March 2010 at 3:04 pm

        Oops. See my freakshow comment above. I thought someone had told me TM was hideous, but if you like it, E, it is probably at least worth smelling (hint). :)

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        • boojum says:
          23 March 2010 at 3:09 pm

          LOL well…our tastes overlap a lot, but are not identical. I responded above. :D

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:26 pm

      It was not a favorite of mine, but (of course) glad you love it — and glad for your sake they’re still making it.

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  4. Bee says:
    23 March 2010 at 2:06 pm

    Lately I’ve been thinking of giving Pamplelune to my goddaughter for her 14th birthday (her first scent), could this one be better? Or maybe I’m better of with giving her a selection of samples first.. hmm

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:25 pm

      I think of Pamplelune as a great scent that not everybody can wear — I’d be tempted to give samples for that reason.

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    • Lucy says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:35 pm

      Pamplelune is one of my absolute favorites, but I would never recommend buying it without having her trying it on first. It is such a polarizing fragrance. People on this site have described it as cat pee, sweaty, and dirty grapefruit. To me it’s icy grapefruit with a little dirt/earthiness, but I like the dirt.
      Besides, taking a 14 year old girl to Sephora to try it out or pick another scent can’t be the worst thing. :)

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    • mals86 says:
      23 March 2010 at 2:35 pm

      I’ve not smelled Pamplelune myself, not being much of a citrus fan, but I vote for samples, with the promise of a bottle of whatever she picks out. I DO live with a 14-YO girl and I can say that the scent preferences of her friends vary widely.

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  5. Bee says:
    23 March 2010 at 2:46 pm

    samples first then! I still have some time to think about an appropriate selection, I just want to start her on the right track, which could be difficult since her mother is an Angel-addict (but nevertheless a good friend of mine ;-) )

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    • Julia says:
      23 March 2010 at 3:13 pm

      I would really try get with first. Pamplelune does not smell nice on me. I haven’t really liked it on other people either so maybe it is just me.

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      • parfumliefhebber says:
        23 March 2010 at 3:45 pm

        No, you are not alone. Me too.

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      • pyramus says:
        23 March 2010 at 9:24 pm

        Whereas on me, Pampelune is heaven. I don’t know if it’s my skin or my nose, but no cat pee or garlic or anything else, just brilliant fresh grapefruit, so gorgeous. It and Herba Fresca were a brilliant beginning for a line that, for me, didn’t produce much else of note–I like Winter Delice and Anisia Bella a lot, but the rest of them were pretty meh, or worse. Haven’t even bothered to try the last few.

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  6. AnnS says:
    23 March 2010 at 2:48 pm

    Ylang & Vanille was my fav AA – it is very much like a de-indoled AG Songes….. It wears soft and simple and pretty. Nothing outstanding, but really pretty.

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 3:10 pm

      The earlier ones like YV, and even most of the later ones really, seemed to focus more on specific natural materials. This one doesn’t have that feel at all.

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    • AnnieA says:
      23 March 2010 at 3:10 pm

      A friend gave me a mini bottle of Y&V and I sometimes wear a drop of it to bed. Pretty and evidently quite relaxing…

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    • boojum says:
      23 March 2010 at 3:12 pm

      Ann, that’s how I feel about the Tiare Mimosa. Nothing outstanding, unusual or brilliant… it just smelled really, really good on me.

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  7. Dzingnut says:
    23 March 2010 at 3:29 pm

    Julia – it’s not just you, trust. I spritzed it on, and within moments was wondering why I suddenly smelled like someone who hadn’t put on deoderant or showered for a month.

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  8. parfumliefhebber says:
    23 March 2010 at 3:49 pm

    Finally I found some of the AA’s. I like the Herba Fresca the most, but I will give the new one definitely a try. The Pivoine Magnifica was also not bad.

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 5:36 pm

      I liked Anisia Bella too, although it was not popular!

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      • Joe says:
        23 March 2010 at 6:27 pm

        Just got a decant of that one. It’s nice. I guess a lot of people do not like Anise. I do notice that the AAs have a bit of a similar-smelling base.

        Winter Delices is another one I thought was good … and not a summery thing, either.

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        • AnnS says:
          23 March 2010 at 7:06 pm

          I am lukewarm about AB – I like my anise in liquor form! Yum!

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      • parfumliefhebber says:
        24 March 2010 at 5:02 am

        That one is on my must try list.

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  9. raluca says:
    23 March 2010 at 4:01 pm

    It seems that nymphs are big this year. Profumum launched Ninfea (roses, violet, honeysuckle, cut grass), Guerlain Flora Nymphea and Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio.
    Anyone else?

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    • mals86 says:
      23 March 2010 at 4:57 pm

      That Profumum actually sounds quite nice…

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  10. mals86 says:
    23 March 2010 at 4:58 pm

    I’m still terribly distracted by the model’s cottony hair. I’m sure it’s deliberate for the ad, but I just keep staaaaaring at it.

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 5:37 pm

      LOL!

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    • Joe says:
      23 March 2010 at 6:55 pm

      I’m distracted by that look too, Mals. That and the fact that I keep wondering if the model is all of about 13 years old. It’s creepy somehow: a made-up child in a platinum bouffant wig.

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      • AnnS says:
        23 March 2010 at 7:07 pm

        Yes, super creepy looking ad – I suppose they wanted her to be an extension of the flower. Eek.

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        • mals86 says:
          23 March 2010 at 8:11 pm

          Both of you are right, it’s creepy. I think it’s that it strikes me as sexualizing a child. Probably the model’s 18 but looks young.

          I mean, I do get the concept: she’s a fairy/nymph/thing, of course she’d be pretty and young… and naked and pouting… and then there are those, um, ladypart-looking flowers behind her…

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          • boojum says:
            23 March 2010 at 10:23 pm

            But actually, she ISN’T naked…look closer. She’s wearing some gold-sequined thing, at least on her lower parts, and you can’t see her top well enough to be sure. And there, even if she isn’t wearing anything, she’s “covered” nonetheless. And, while I’m being all naive, I’ll say that the flowers didn’t strike me as “girl parts” so much as wings.

          • AlbertCAN says:
            23 March 2010 at 11:58 pm

            You are referring to Anna Selezneva: she will turn 20 this summer. She is also the face of Vera Wang Look if I’m not mistaken.

            As for the fragrance…what can I say? Guerlain could have taken the high road with the concept and Wasser could transform the idea into something poetic. But if the team can’t see the angle then I really don’t need to waste my time. Really too bad.

          • mals86 says:
            24 March 2010 at 6:51 am

            I’m probably not seeing it as it was meant to be seen, true.

            But I still find it really creepy.

    • zeezee says:
      24 March 2010 at 5:48 am

      It reminds me very much of Goldfrapp’s newest cd cover: the same corny faded face over a background in early 70’s pastel tints.

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    • OperaFan says:
      24 March 2010 at 9:52 am

      There is a link to a video advertisement on PerfumeShrine. I haven’t seen it, but the semi-cartoon effect of the photograph there makes me think of Japanese animation. It bears the style that can easily be transformed into a comic drawing and if intended specifically for the Asian market, would explain a lot.

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      • OperaFan says:
        24 March 2010 at 9:58 am

        Oops! I meant, the Scented Salamander’s March 17 post, and it IS an animated version.
        http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2010/03/guerlain_release_animated_film.html#more

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      • Robin says:
        24 March 2010 at 10:06 am

        You can see the ad at the new Aqua Allegoria website:

        http://www.aqua-allegoria.com/aqua-allegoria.html

        (although I couldn’t get any version of the site to load except the French)

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  11. RusticDove says:
    23 March 2010 at 5:04 pm

    I’vs only tried a few of the AA line, but haven’t found one to love yet. But I want to love one. I have to have one of those pretty bottles. Next time I go to Sephora, Imust force myself to leave the house without fragrance so I can sample several more. ;-)

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    • Robin says:
      23 March 2010 at 5:38 pm

      Try TJ Maxx too…they sometimes have older ones. I’ve liked quite a few of them but have yet to meet one I’d pay full price for.

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  12. eminere says:
    24 March 2010 at 7:35 am

    What an apt, ethereal ad visual.

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    • Robin says:
      24 March 2010 at 9:43 am

      I like the ad, but not for the AA range — it was supposed to be about materials found in nature, and all the old ads emphasized those materials. This ad says nothing about the materials, which I guess you could say fits since the scent doesn’t either — but I think it’s too bad. Guerlain’s line has lost all sense of coherence already, this just makes it worse.

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      • eminere says:
        26 March 2010 at 9:51 am

        Oh yes I see what you mean! The flowers in the ad are orchids, right? They could’ve at least used the matching flowers from the fragrance notes…

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        • Robin says:
          26 March 2010 at 10:16 am

          Exactly…why not orange blossoms or mock orange? But perhaps they are going to revamp the AA line, give it a new direction.

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  13. Isa says:
    24 March 2010 at 7:36 pm

    I love -and own- Mandarine Basilic. It’s absolutely energizing, fresh and clean. I usually wear it after a shower, in summer.
    Here in Spain some shopping assistants are starting to say it’s going to be discontinued. I hope they’re mistaken.

    I’m llooking forward to trying this Flora Nymphea, because I’m in the mood for a spring-like perfume.

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    • Robin says:
      24 March 2010 at 8:26 pm

      I hope they don’t get rid of it before I buy some! Still waiting for a very cheap bottle to turn up somewhere.

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  14. Craig Su says:
    12 April 2010 at 10:25 am

    In my opinion, I think Flora Nymphéa goes way more impressive than the last year’s (meh) Idylle. Totally get the honey tone, wrapping up with the expressive orange blossom. Simple as it should be, I think Flora Nymphéa creates enough volume for the wearer.

    Well I think Flora Nymphéa shouldn’t be sitting on Aqua Allegoria’s bench.

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    • Robin says:
      12 April 2010 at 11:39 am

      I like Idylle better, but totally agree this doesn’t fit with the Aqua Allegorias.

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  15. alligins says:
    31 August 2010 at 10:28 am

    I think i’ll get this one come next spring/early summer. It’s time now to think about the fall. It took me forever to make up my mind about this one, only because it’s very sweet, not my usual…but I decided it’s a good sweet, so I figured something out for next spring. One other sweetie fragrance I like, and most of you ladies hate is the Insolence. It just works with my skin, though I have to be in the right frame of mind for it.

    when I sprayed my sample of this nymphea, I have to say that it was more men who took notice.

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    • Robin says:
      31 August 2010 at 12:11 pm

      I like Insolence too :-)

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