• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives

What Diana the Huntress might wear on a big night

Posted by Robin on 8 January 2010 71 Comments

Tiaré goes one further and takes on the most impregnably classical thing of all: the feminine citrus floral.

For reference, this category includes such marvels as Caron’s Alpona, Diorella and Chanel’s Cristalle, i.e. what Diana the Huntress might wear on a big night. Tiaré is clearly modeled on Cristalle, with a haughty, silken freshness up top and a green, acidic, olive-oil fruitiness below. But Linda Pilkington does not know her place: Tiaré is better than its model, richer, more complicated, more interesting.

— Luca Turin, in Notes from the nose -- Tiare at NZZ Folio, with many thanks to Abyss for the link!

Filed Under: perfume in the news
Tagged With: luca turin, ormonde jayne

Advertisement


71 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. Daisy says:
    8 January 2010 at 9:30 am

    ONLY ENOUGH TO MAKE 160 BOTTLES??? I think I hear a perfumista stampede…..take cover!

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:43 am

      LOL!

      Log in to Reply
      • CynthiaW says:
        8 January 2010 at 9:44 am

        OMG- I thought the same thing. Quick, Daisy – are we splitting a bottle?

        Log in to Reply
        • datura5750 says:
          8 January 2010 at 9:50 am

          I’m in!

          Log in to Reply
        • Daisy says:
          8 January 2010 at 10:16 am

          yup, I’ll go order right now!

          Log in to Reply
          • Daisy says:
            8 January 2010 at 10:18 am

            Ok—y’all are BAD! I’m not supposed to be buying more stuff…sheesh…..email me!

          • bergere says:
            8 January 2010 at 1:08 pm

            Hi, Daisy–Can you order a BIG bottle? I’d like in!

          • Daisy says:
            8 January 2010 at 2:23 pm

            sorry y’all….before I got to the OJ site I remembered how Cristalle burned my nose! I’m sure if you 3 ran a split a fourth person would show up very quickly! Oh, and just as an aside—the per ml cost of the purse sprays is virtually the same as the 50ml bottle per ml cost.
            What I need OJ to do is start making 100ml bottles at an economically attractive price!

        • Tama says:
          8 January 2010 at 1:13 pm

          I’m in, too! lol

          Log in to Reply
          • Absolute Scentualist says:
            8 January 2010 at 4:47 pm

            Me too. I adore tiare and this sounds like a great OJ gateway perfume. Please count me im. 🙂

        • daseined says:
          8 January 2010 at 2:31 pm

          Hey all,

          Just posted for a split on the Google group…get in now!

          Log in to Reply
          • Absolute Scentualist says:
            8 January 2010 at 7:09 pm

            How can I find the Google group? All I’m aware of is the ScentSplits wiki… I know. Bad perfumista.

  2. perfumegeek says:
    8 January 2010 at 9:37 am

    Oh no, only 160??? I just ordered my sample of Tiare, I hope it gets here before the supply runs out. I don’t want to order it unsniffed…although now I’m tempted. Gah!

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:44 am

      It’s a very pretty fragrance, but I did not love it despite the fact that I adore the others he names (Cristalle, Alpona — the old formulation, Diorella).

      Log in to Reply
      • perfumegeek says:
        8 January 2010 at 9:54 am

        How similar is it to OJ Frangipani? I remember the smell of frangipani growing up and loved the creamy sweet, slightly fruity ripe scent of it. But I don’t like OJ’s interpretation of it 🙁 It’s too acidic for my taste.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          8 January 2010 at 10:08 am

          To my nose, it’s daintier than Frangipani…but it is citrusy.

          Log in to Reply
          • perfumegeek says:
            8 January 2010 at 10:22 am

            I have such a love/hate relationship with citrus. I have a photo of myself as a little girl, getting ready for a dance recital, wearing a luscious crown of frangipani, feeling absolutely gorgeous. I just could not get over how much the citrus notes overwhelm the frangipani scent in the OJ.

        • parfumliefhebber says:
          8 January 2010 at 12:41 pm

          I had the same experience with Frangipani from I think it was Guerlain last sommer. It smelt very like acid on my skin.

          Log in to Reply
  3. Abyss says:
    8 January 2010 at 9:58 am

    Lol @ Daisy 😀

    I think LT said it was the case in Nov. I remember that Tiare was sold out at one point but they got more stock before Christmas so perhaps that means that they managed to sort the supply problem.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 10:09 am

      That’s probably right.

      Log in to Reply
      • boojum says:
        8 January 2010 at 11:04 am

        I hope so, because I’m operating under that assumption rather than ordering unsniffed. 😀 I can already see that my new year’s resolution is going to have to be something along the lines of “not allowing the availability of a split to make me purchase something unsniffed or far down my to-buy list”. Starting now, since I jumped on 2 in as many days.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          8 January 2010 at 11:33 am

          I wouldn’t worry…even if they run out, they’ll make more.

          Log in to Reply
  4. CynthiaW says:
    8 January 2010 at 10:01 am

    Robin, the review over at the Posse compared Tiare to A Scent, Cristalle Eau Verte and Jasmine White Moss – did you find that to be an apt comparison? Because, if it is, I might have just averted that lemming since I already own two of the three scents mentioned.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 10:12 am

      Yeah, in that same family. But I’ll use the same word I used above: dainty. It’s daintier than any of those. The moss has no bite, as it does in the original Cristalle or Alpona or Diorella, but it doesn’t smell as synthetic as A Scent, CEV or JWM. And it’s a very airy scent — more so than OJ Frangipani or Osmanthus.

      Log in to Reply
      • CynthiaW says:
        8 January 2010 at 10:53 am

        Whew – lemming averted here, too.

        Log in to Reply
      • Haunani says:
        8 January 2010 at 10:58 am

        And lemming increased here. 🙂
        Airy is me.

        Log in to Reply
        • Daisy says:
          8 January 2010 at 2:25 pm

          Haunani—you need to go talk to Tama, Bergere and Datura…let Ormonde Jayne bring people together!

          Log in to Reply
      • AnnS says:
        8 January 2010 at 11:00 am

        I’ve not yet smelled Tiare, that being said…. Yeesh! To compare a fragrance to Cristalle or Diorella is no insignificant thing. I am thinking where are the sholder pads/spike heels/axe/whip/?bow and arrow? hidden in this “dainty” thing? To read LT’s comments and then also read comparisons to other rather clean white florals is a big jump between all these reviews. In my mind now, I imagine Cristalle and Diorella eating Tiare for a snack – I get the head, you get the tail, lol. Cristalle and Diorella are two huge, respect worthy fragrances that are very hard to wear for most – to compare to A Scent, C eau Verte and JWM… well those are so relatively simple, mass market soapy greens… It is a confusing comparison for sure.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          8 January 2010 at 11:35 am

          What can I say … LT sees something very different in Tiare than I do. I do think it’s lovely, but to me it lacks the edge that the 3 classics have, although Alpona was first de-edged and then discontinued altogether, and I cannot see how either Cristalle or Diorella can’t have been reformulated also (I still assume that’s the point of Cristalle Eau Verte).

          Log in to Reply
          • AnnS says:
            8 January 2010 at 1:43 pm

            Absolutely – one way or the other Cristalle would have to be reformulated – both the cirtrus and oakmoss would do it. I totally applaud people who can wear Cristalle with ease. All I know is you can sharpen knives on it! And here is me thinking No 19 is edgy! I always think: maybe someday I’ll get it. Diorella on the other hand is just major league – I respect it completely, but I can’t wear it. I suppose I will smell Tiare for reference, etc. just to try and understand it for what it is.

          • Jillie says:
            9 January 2010 at 1:02 pm

            Sharp-eyed perfumistas may have noticed that I have previously ranted about the reformuation of Cristalle! It really isn’t what it used to be. I can see/smell where the comparisons to Cristalle and Diorella are coming from in describing Tiare, but I would almost swear it smells like vetiver (most of all like Jo Malone’s version). Tiare IS light, almost too light for a show-off like me, but I am becoming increasingly addicted to it! And I guess it just goes to show that there’s nothing like sniffing the real thing to know whether you are going to like a fragrance or not, and to wear it more than once.

    • SmokeyToes says:
      8 January 2010 at 12:22 pm

      I’m so glad I read your post Cynthiaw, Cristalle the original would have had me interested right away. Eau Verte–not so much. But good to know.

      Log in to Reply
  5. mals86 says:
    8 January 2010 at 10:04 am

    Lemming averted here: the Citrus Floral I find perfectly nice but not really Me. More for the rest of you!

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 10:12 am

      $ saved.

      Log in to Reply
  6. boojum says:
    8 January 2010 at 11:08 am

    I guess LT and I have very different ideas of Diana the Huntress… and probably “a big night” as well. 😀 A dainty citrus floral? I’d expect something more along the lines of OJ Woman or Boudicca Wode… something with a green, bitter bite… or, given her connection with the moon, a big, blooming white floral.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 11:35 am

      Well, I don’t think he found it dainty.

      Log in to Reply
    • RusticDove says:
      8 January 2010 at 4:23 pm

      My thoughts exactly Boo! Even if we put ‘dainty’ aside, I wouldn’t imagine a citrus floral as Diana’s scent.

      Log in to Reply
  7. dissed says:
    8 January 2010 at 11:27 am

    It is necessary that try ANY new OJ scent, ASAP. All are beautiful, but few are purchased. Those few, though, are necessary. If my sample doesn’t arrive today, I will sit down beside the mailbox, in the ice, and scream.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 11:35 am

      I would wholeheartedly agree. Everyone should try it.

      Log in to Reply
  8. Robin R. says:
    8 January 2010 at 12:16 pm

    Three things. First, this article of Turin’s should be required reading for any budding perfumista. It says so much about the current state of fragrance, clearly, astutely and economically. He knows his stuff.

    Second, Enlevement au Serail IS genius.

    Third, I share the relief that others have expressed, knowing that Robin wasn’t as impressed by Tiare as Turin was. Yes indeed, one big fat lemming off the cliff without me. And the really interesting thing: for all the respect I have for Luca Turin, it seems that I might even trust Robin’s nose more. Wow. 😉

    Log in to Reply
    • CynthiaW says:
      8 January 2010 at 12:27 pm

      Well, I respect Turin and Sanchez and try things based on their recommendations, but I *agree* with Robin more often. So, when it comes to personal consumption and purchasing, rather than just sniffing, I trust Robin more.

      Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 1:47 pm

      Gosh. I certainly would not trust my nose more. Luca Turin knows way more about perfume than I ever even want to know. If your taste is closer to mine, fine — his taste is quite different than mine.

      Log in to Reply
      • Robin R. says:
        8 January 2010 at 2:05 pm

        Operative phrase: “might trust.”

        Could be I was looking for any excuse to get this small furry rodent off my lemming list. 😉

        Love,
        Just Teasing

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          8 January 2010 at 2:22 pm

          LOL! Fine.

          Log in to Reply
      • CynthiaW says:
        8 January 2010 at 2:16 pm

        Oh, I’ll read anything that he writes about perfume and sniff things that I never would have otherwise – several times sometimes just to try and “get” what he does from it. I also find his reviews hilarious – even when he’s trashing something that I love. That being said, my tastes often hew closer to yours than his – except for vetiver. I think that you both love that and I don’t really get it yet.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          8 January 2010 at 2:23 pm

          Oh well, there are notes I’ll never really “get” either!

          Log in to Reply
  9. Kseni says:
    8 January 2010 at 12:51 pm

    Same here, I tried too hard to love it, but while I love cristalle and all the rest mentioned in comparison, this new one just did not impress as if too polished and not edged enough too pleasing and therefore i could not get what is it to achieve

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 1:47 pm

      “Too polished” is a good way to put it.

      Log in to Reply
  10. aimiliona says:
    8 January 2010 at 1:18 pm

    Lemming averted here too. Better than Cristalle? I didn’t believe it and I wanted to test the claim at the same time.

    Peter Jackson’s Arwen Evenstar probably wears Cristalle, though I think Tolkien’s doesn’t.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 1:48 pm

      I never read the Tolkien, so no idea! Based on the movie, I would have put her in something fiercer than Cristalle though. Can’t think of what.

      Log in to Reply
  11. Nina says:
    8 January 2010 at 3:01 pm

    Oh, Arwen was almost certainly an Ormonde Woman woman!

    Log in to Reply
    • Nina says:
      8 January 2010 at 3:02 pm

      Elf-woman, that is.

      Log in to Reply
      • perfumegeek says:
        8 January 2010 at 4:21 pm

        OMG, I was thinking exactly the same thing LOL. I was feeling fierce last night, watching the BCS National Championship, sprayed myself senseless with OJ Woman, and nearly lost my voice screaming and cheering for my team. Roll Tide!

        Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 5:25 pm

      Yes, that would fit how I think of her (and watching the trilogy this week with my son, who has never seen it before)

      Log in to Reply
  12. sunsetsong says:
    8 January 2010 at 7:13 pm

    I have loved and worne Cristalle for many years and am a recent purchaser of Tiare. Don’t agree with LT – Cristalle is still the big sister as far as I am concerned and while there is lots to love about Tiare it doesn’t have the same edge and lasting power. I look forward to wearing Tiare during the warmer months when I feel that it will come into its own. Both are beautiful fragrances.
    The whole reformulation thing drives me mad! How do we know we are wearing the same fragrance when we look at a review? Obviously this doesn’t apply to Tiare but is my Cristalle the same as yours ??

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:40 pm

      It’s a real problem — we’ve put a disclaimer about reformulations on the top of the perfume review page, but I don’t have time to add a disclaimer to every single review.

      Log in to Reply
  13. Absolute Scentualist says:
    8 January 2010 at 7:13 pm

    Does the newest Christalle formulation bear any resemblence to the intriguing character it seems to possess? I love intense florals and Chanel, and I’d like to give this a try but don’t know how well it’s survived all the reformulation that’s going on.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:40 pm

      I have not smelled the EdT lately. I assume the EdP would need less work to survive the new regulations.

      Log in to Reply
  14. sunsetsong says:
    8 January 2010 at 7:18 pm

    A further thought – LT was perhaps reviewing the Tiare parfum ? Which is much spendier than my humble ( but lovely) EDP…..
    Can someone in London go test the parfum ? Please ?

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:41 pm

      Could be.

      Log in to Reply
      • taniasanchez says:
        9 January 2010 at 7:02 pm

        Afraid ’tis! We have the parfum. The eau was certainly fresher and more transparent, the parfum more dramatic.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          9 January 2010 at 11:59 pm

          Ah. That might be why I’m missing the drama, then.

          Log in to Reply
    • Jillie says:
      9 January 2010 at 1:07 pm

      I was thinking the very same thing as I scrolled down the comments! Because the perfume is way beyond my pocket, I am wearing the edp, which certainly isn’t strong, and it suddenly occurred to me that LT might well have been sniffing the perfume. I would love to smell that!

      Log in to Reply
  15. ami says:
    9 January 2010 at 4:46 am

    I truly love OJ Woman and Frangipani,might buy them once, but Tiare is somewhat boring… sort of a grandmo scent, but not in a comforting way

    really should not buy this one unsniffed

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      9 January 2010 at 2:29 pm

      I don’t know that I found it dull, really, but certainly less exciting than others in the line. But looks like many others disagree!

      Log in to Reply
  16. TallulahRose says:
    9 January 2010 at 4:59 am

    When I think “tiare”, I immediately go to Manoumalia. A richly complex and enchanting version — definitely not boring — and yet, not overwhelming and cloying. Lovely.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      9 January 2010 at 2:30 pm

      That is a gorgeous scent, although too sweet for me personally. This one is far airier…

      Log in to Reply
  17. hongkongmom says:
    10 January 2010 at 10:48 pm

    I am hooked on my tiare mimose aa guerlain, i have OJ frangipani, and i am so keen to try ormande women, so the oj tiare is a NON lemming for me…phew

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      11 January 2010 at 10:15 am

      Do try Ormonde Woman, it’s a great scent. But while you’re at it you really might as well try this too, LOL…

      Log in to Reply
  18. brazile says:
    11 April 2010 at 11:05 am

    I got a sample yesterday and adore it – it really is a smooth, polished citrus, which is exactly what I’d been looking for – and it lacks Diorella’s bitchiness, somehow, which is no bad thing. I’d love to smell the parfum.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      11 April 2010 at 11:32 am

      It’s really pretty, but I did not love it.

      Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

15 March ~ swapmeet

3 April ~ damage poll
26 April ~ splitmeet

3 May ~ spring reading poll
17 May ~ Haiku challenge!

 

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2025 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.