Chanel’s Bois Noir fragrance was created (circa 1986-87) because Chanel’s chairman of the board Alain Wertheimer “wanted something new to wear.”* Wertheimer’s marketing approach to Bois Noir was novel: Bois Noir was not sold in department stores (it was only available in Chanel boutiques); there were no promotions (such as “gift-with-purchase” offers; Wertheimer hated those); and he didn’t really care if Bois Noir was a money-maker for his company. Wertheimer spoke frankly in a 1987 interview and said there were few unusual fragrances like Bois Noir because — "People want success too quickly. From a fragrance point of view, people like what their memory tells them is good. Memory tells you it's good if it relates to something else you like. When a fragrance is completely different, they're lost."*
By April of 1990, things had changed — Bois Noir’s name for one. Amidst a flashy (and expensive) print and film ad campaign — the largest ever for a Chanel men’s fragrance — Bois Noir (no doubt with some tweaking of its formula) became Égoïste and was widely launched: in department stores no less! In its advertisements, which included the now-famous Jean-Paul Goude TV commercial, Chanel didn’t use images of men; a Chanel executive was quoted as saying: "The image of a 24-year-old guy, in perfect physical shape, isn't exactly reality. Why be so definitive? The image of a young guy trying to be cool has been stretched to its limit in men's fragrance advertising." Chanel did create an apartment in New York for the mysterious “Égoïste” — complete with a Lifecycle bike, free weights, Henri Rousseau paintings and an Aubusson carpet.**
Perfumer Jacques Polge concocted Bois Noir/Égoïste, and its listed ingredients include tangerine, lavender, rose, coriander, Bourbon vanilla, sandalwood, rosewood and ambrette seed. Égoïste opens with spicy fruit-floral notes (citrus-rose-clove) that remind me of classic potpourri aromas — not the musty/dusty cheap-smelling potpourri one finds everywhere these days, but old-style ‘wet’ potpourri made with fresh ingredients: oily citrus peels, soft rose petals, pungent cloves and Ceylon cinnamon bark.
Several summers ago, I used a late 19th century recipe to prepare “wet” potpourri. Into a large earthenware container, I would arrange handfuls of rose petals from my garden and strips of lemon and orange peels between layers of coarse salt. This layering process (petals/peels-salt, petals/peels-salt) went on all summer long, and the container’s contents were weighed down with heavy stones. By autumn, the potpourri was dense, highly fragrant and “juicy,” and I added cloves and cinnamon bark to the mixture and aged the potpourri for several months. The resulting potpourri was damp and coarsely textured, like sand near the ocean, and it released a great deal of perfume into the air. Égoïste reminds me of that potpourri; its aroma is rich but clear; as Égoïste dries down, I also smell vanilla, interesting musk (ambrette seeds?) and woods. Égoïste smells delicious, festive, and it’s almost “gourmand.”
Back in 1990-91, the men’s fragrance leaders were Calvin Klein Obsession for Men, Ralph Lauren Polo, Aramis and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir; Chanel wanted Égoïste to join that line-up of super-successful perfumes.** It didn’t. Égoïste’s sales dropped rapidly after its launch (Chanel said Égoïste was “too sophisticated”*** for the American market) and Chanel decided to use the Égoïste name on a new product — Égoïste Platinum (released in 1993-1994)*** Young, well-muscled, half-naked men were featured in Égoïste Platinum ads, a musical CD “gift with purchase” was offered (never say never!), and sadly, for the first time, Chanel used test groups of consumers to help develop a fragrance.***
Égoïste Platinum was created by, you guessed it, Jacques Polge and contains lavender, sage, rosemary, geranium, petitgrain, cedar, and vetiver. Égoïste Platinum starts off with a sweet-sour citrus note that is warmed by rosemary and lavender leaf; this is an instantly recognizable, mainstream, “clean,” citrus-herbal “sport” fragrance. As it dries on skin, Égoïste Platinum becomes soft, talcy and sweeter. The best thing I can say about Égoïste Platinum is that its ingredients are high quality; its popularity confirmed the wise words of Alain Wertheimer: quick success in the world of perfume arises from familiarity. In other words: if you want a “hit” department store fragrance, make a perfume that smells like dozens of other popular department store fragrances. I’m an American — but I’m way too sophisticated for Égoïste Platinum’s standard-issue formula. Égoïste Platinum makes me yawn. Égoïste makes me purr.
* Women's Wear Daily, 11/6/1987.
** Women's Wear Daily, 2/22/1991.
** Women's Wear Daily, 1/14/1994.
Note: image of rose petals is pre-potpourri by sheeshoo at flickr; some rights reserved.
Update: see a review of Chanel Bois Noir.
I am a woman and I wore Egoiste nonstop till I could hardly find it. It was THAT good! I'd love to smell it again. The platinum bored me to tears.
Kayliana: it's a shame to associate Egoiste with that Plantinum stuff isn't it?
I'd love to see your potpourri recipe- it sound divine!
shellybean: I got the recipe from a Gertrude Jekyll gardening book…it wasn't difficult…just time consuming…and you do need a non-stop supply of roses.
PS: Reading Jekyll's recipe was hilarious…she had bushel baskets full of roses and mixed her potpourri with a: PITCHFORK. HAHA! So I guess you don't necessarily need a non-stop supply of roses if you have one HUGE, monster harvest of roses.
Happy New Year, Kevin.
I'm not sure if I've ever picked up and sniffed a bottle of Egoiste in a department store, but I feel I need to seek it out now just to get a sense of what it's like after your great description. It sounds like something that should be a classic. However, I haven't had much luck with Chanel's men's line being that appealing to me.
So is Egoiste not around anymore or can one still find it? It sounds delish.
Admit it, Kevin ~ you wrote this review for me, didn't ya?
Have nothing to add, agree w/ everything you say (love Egoiste, appreciate but don't like the Platinum), except that I've noticed a watering down of Egoiste over the last 10 years: top notes are now brighter and crispier (Erin has likened the top-note savoury accord to fenugreek, an apt comparison IMO) while the rose is more dry clovey petals than the sweet, vanillic floral that I remember. Perhaps my nose has changed?
Happy New Year!
I love Egoiste. It's sofisticated, with a fruity opening that reminds of plum, and then it develops to a sexy rose infused with vanilla, spicy undertones and a touch of woods. There's nothing like this fragrance, and I understand why it flopped, because it's very unique.
Kevin, I recommend if you can find the Egoiste Cologne Concentree. It's more on the vanilla and spicy side, as the delicious as the regular one.
Happy New Year to you too Joe: I like Egoiste, Pour Monsieur and Antaeus…that's pretty good for me and a single perfume house!
Tama; oh, it's around…my Nordstrom has it.
Yes, Dusan…this one's for you! I bought Egoiste back in 1990 and the current formula smells the same to me. Noses!
Henrique: I haven't seen the cologne concentree in ages…wonder if any is left “out there?”
Damned nose!
I'd never seen the Égoïste ad before, and have watched it no less than 15 times in the past 10 minutes. I don't know that I've ever enjoyed a commercial for anything quite so much.
And your review makes me want to run to Nordstroms directly after work and see if they have a bottle. I sniffed Platinum Égoïste at a Sephora once and didn't enjoy, but I don't think I've ever come across the original. Sounds divine.
I don't know. I've found a 20ml on ebay for a incredible price (5 dolars), so i took a risk and boght it. From times to times a 100ml bottle appears on ebay. It was a shame it was discontinued, because it as good as the original, but a little more sweet.
Here Egoiste is hard to find, but luckily my auntie found it and game me as birthday gift
This was very well written. I have always like Egoiste because it is such a unique fragrance. It doesn't smell like everything else. Unique scents like this are a hard sell to American men. If it does not smell like Acqua Di Gio it is out. Platinum is a mainstream scent and not a favorite for me. I would think that Chanel Boutiques would still have Egoiste. Select Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus stores might have it as well. I am going to Bangkok in February and will see if it is over there. I am out and want more!
Kevin!
Finally someone that even mentions Bois Noir!
I was living in France when Bois Noir came out and I bought a bottle. When I came back to Canada and had to move everything, I gave away my half used bottle thinking that I would buy a new one here. Fool!!!
For years, no one even knew what I was talking about, not even at the Chanel boutiques.
Let me tell you…. Égoïste is a very poor relative of the original Bois Noir. Don't get me wrong, I like Egoiste, but I LOVED Bois Noir.
IMO Égoïste is sharper, more agressive.
Bois Noir was richer, smoother, well rounded, more elegant and grown up. A more present citrus top note(like Meyer lemon) and a softer vanilla with just a touch of rich amber…… (Europeen critics at the time said that it was too “feminin” for most men)
23 years later and I still remember how great it was.
Maybe one day, in my lifetime, it could be brought back…
While i wait for that day, I'll keep my precious half bottle of Égoïste
hoping…..
BlackRaspberry: Glad you liked the commercial…it's one of my favorites.
The ScentSavant: the Chanel website sells it too I believe.
platinum15: Someone who actually wore the Bois Noir perfume! You're the first I've “spoken” with about the fragrance. Wouldn't it be great if Les Exclusifs would add Bois Noir to the line…even for a short time? So horrible you gave away that bottle!!!!!!!!
Yeah,
unless Les Exclusifs bring it back, giving away that bottle, will be the one regret of my (hopefully long) life. Especially since it was bought at 31 rue Cambon, the first week that Bois Noir came out at it was my very first visit to Paris…
“Rosebud, rosebud, rosebud….”
Yes – I remember the ad – coolest commercial ever IMHO. Never smelled the juice though! After reading this wonderful description I'm going to seek it out. I've never done well with the Chanel women's fragrances, who knows, maybe I should have been looking at the men's?
You are so right, if it doesn't smell like Acqua Di Gio no one will wear it. Macys says it has been their #1 selling mens fragrance since its introduction. I believe it every man you walk by is wearing it I'm to the point where it makes me ill to smell it. I just don't understand why guys are afraid to wear something unique.
Patty: yes, try the men's line (skip Allure though!)
I think my 17 y.o. nephew has an old bottle of the original (it belonged to his father).
He lives with us, so getting a spritz/sniff won't be too hard!
Oh dear, I do like Égoïste Platinum on my skin. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find Égoïste anywhere in Australia! Must try to get a hold of it so I can test it out.
Years ago I smelt what I now know, thanks to your review to be the original Egoiste on a friend (male) & loved it. I bought a bottle for my husband a while ago & couldn't understand why it was so loathsome – thought it must be down to my faulty memory.
Of course, have just scuttled to the bathroom cabinet & discovered I bought the Platinum – I had no idea it was a different fragrance.
Now I supose I have to try and find out if anyone in Australia stocks the original – highly unlikely I think.
Ps: Have been a Luckyscent customer for some time but just discovered your site – love it – great.
Happy New Year to all.
I feel exactly the same way. I do not care for grapefruit in fragrance at all, and so innocently sniffing the Platinum was a rude shock. I keep meaning to buy at least a large decant from TPC – off to add that to my wish list now. Thanks for writing about one of my favorite – and first – men's fragrances, you do it justice. And that commercial is fantastic! The women, the hand with the bottle, the doors opening and shutting, the music!
OMG! This is my favourite men's fragrance ever! I wear it all the time myself and find it works beautifully on women too! According to The Perfumed Court, they say that Bois Noir is BETTER than Egoiste! I am tempted to buy some to check but $50 for 5mls is so much and if I love it then I won't be able to get it anyway. I DISLIKE platinum and I remember years ago when it was removed from distribution in Australia and I was searching around for a bottle. I didn't even know about the platinum until all the sales staff kept trying to convince me that this was the fragrance I was looking for. IT MOST CERTAINLY WAS NOT!!! Ugh.
It is readily available on line and you won't regret it. Try strawberrynet.com or any other reputable seller. Enjoy!
It isn't in distribution in Australia but you can get it on strawberrynet.com I highly recommend it.
It is definitely not available in Australia but go to strawberrynet.com They have it and it is worth the purchase. I can't resist a man wearing this!
Exist: glad you enjoyed it!
AussieBec: I'm tempted by Bois Noir too…but like you say: if we love it we'll be even more upset!
Thanks Bec. Will do.
SFLizbeth: YOU LUCKY DOG! HAHA!
JulyBabe: Welcome to the site…and Happy New Year to you too.
I remember liking the original Egoiste alot. Don't really care for the Platinum though.
C: I had to just do a load of laundry because Platinum SATURATED by sleeves yesterday and just would NOT stop “diffusing!”
That is the worst. I once had to give up a diesel down jacket because of an over enthusiastic SA who sprayed something on it that I HATED and REFUSED to come out even after laundering. Hope your shirt is luckier.
C: FUNNY!!!!!!! My Diesel jean jacket was the Platinum victim!!!!!
OMG SHUT UP! That is too funny! I think I just sounded like my 13 year old niece. Woah…sorry bout that. lol.
I liked Egoiste from the very start, and bought it right after its launch, but unfortunately it did not like me very much in return; it was loud and aggressive and not at all my style. But then I discovered the shower gel, which I went through several bottles of before it became unavailable: it left the perfect trace of Egoiste on my skin, just enough to reveal its character without becoming hostile.
Egoiste Platinum, in comparison, is worthless.
R: agree! Too bad Chanel deleted the shower gel…I always forget about that option when I like a scent but it's too strong. I loved the days of “liquid talc” too…extinct!
Yeah I noticed, but still need to give it a sniff first.
Am really liking the drydown of Platinum in my skin though.
Wow, what a commercial! I love the Prokofiev in the background! One of my favorite pieces! Soooo dramatic! I'm sure that's a good sign that I'll like the fragrance- it has been on my “to try” list now and this review has sped up that process. I agree with you on the Platinum, too. I've learned to stay away from fragrances with words like “platinum” in the names!
Oh, and I bought Pour Monsieur today and am loving it! I can't believe I didn't like this on first smell…but that's always the way it goes with me. Perfumery seems to have taught me to not trust first impressions!
Okay, now I have a different opinion now: I love Egoiste Platinum! It smells like *men* and it is sexy in an gentlemans way.
I recognize it always and I do not know any other scent that is even near, much less that is similar.
Thank you so much Kevin for a fab review of one of my favourite men's scents. (I feel quite spoiled as Angela reviewed Invasion Barbare recently). It is too bad the original Egoiste is of limited availability. I am kicking myself for not buying a bottle when I was in Nice last September (it's not stocked in the UK so I'm reduced to haunting wh*rebay). Someone once described it as a male counterpart to Bois des Iles and I can smell that connection and it would probably be more apparent in its predecessor Bois Noir. I'm not even going to comment on the platinum version….
I'm with you! Back in 1990-91 or smth I bought Chanel No5 for my mother and got a mini of Platinum. I liked it very much and wore a lot (I'm a woman). To me it smells very different from all “fresh” watery and ozonic modern frags for men that I hate.
Kevin thank you so much for such a wonderfully written reveiw. I have been searching for a unique mens fragrance for 10 years now. I went to Nordstrom to smell Egoiste and fell madly in love with it. I had given up any hope of finding anything and sadly told myself I'll just be fragrance free rather than smelling like every man I walk by lol. I did try Platinum Egoiste just to be fair and to be able to compare the two of them. The Platinum Egoiste is not without its charm but it in no way comes close to Egoiste, so once again thank you.
my mom makes her own potpourri
I love potpourri-ish, almost gourmandish perfumes
The word “platinum” would make me not want to try a perfume
It makes me think of platinum metal shavings
Jared: ha…the “richer” the word, the poorer the contents.
Jared: Pour Monsieur is a favorite of mine too…I need to review it.
mybeautyblog: goodness. I must respectfully disagree! HA! I've smelled so many like Platinum it would take me all weekend to list them. One thing I can say: it was early in on the 'sporty' boat. But it has LOTS of fans…
lenika: true…I thank Chanel for not putting “water” or “ozone” in Platinum…that's SOMEthing!
donanicola…there must be a limited supply of Egoiste produced…it ALWAYS becomes difficult to find after Christmas…then it reappears in late winter…then gets hard to find again mid-year. And I had no idea it wasn't sold in Australia!
Jett: you're welcome!
krokodilgena: if you like vibrant potpourri fragrances, you've probably already tried it but Diptyque L'Eau would please you….
My cheeks are fuschia. I had to wrestle with myself to write this, but decided no guts no glory. . . I love Egoiste Platinum and bought my hubby a bottle for Christmas. On him it is drop dead sexy (no jokes allowed about simply drop dead, ok?). I will say that I like it best when it has settled and when he applies it very sparingly, but I find that with most Chanels. Goes on very bright and “in your face” but then settles into a deep masculine aura that never fails to attract me. Guess I'm easy to please (no jokes allowed about simply easy either, ok?) LOL!! Happy New Year!
HollyC; HAPPY NEW YEAR! And puh-leeze…we ALL love some fragrance that annoys-frightens-disgusts someone else, right? Enjoy Egoiste Platinum! *return to your normal coloring….
after I wrote that comment I put my sample of L'Eau on!!!!!
Oh, Obsession for Men had the most fantastic liquid talcum. It made your skin feel so good, and it didn't fly all around the room and leave a film on your dresser like powder talc does…. I couldn't wear the EDT (again, wildly aggressive on my skin), but the soap plus the talc gave the perfect dose of what was at the time an innovative scent.
A high-quality shower gel is nearly always the solution for a scent that just doesn't want to be worn by you. I loved Tsar (mmm…tarragon) and Xeryus Rouge but there was something weird about them on me that the shower gel fixed, and their scents both stayed on the skin for an amazingly long time after you washed them off.
They used to be my dad's favorites, but I think he said he loved Egoiste better than the platinum.
krokodilgena: funny!
I love Egoiste Platinum! But then I'm one of those people who appreciate ozonics and aquatics!
Thanks! Now if I fall in love with the juice, that's another matter altogether.
I love wearing men's scents, Dune for men, Givenchy Monseur, and Eau Savage are some of my faves!
WIth a name like “Celestia” how could you NOT like those water and air notes?
R: Tsar especially would make a GREAT talcum powder…I could never wear that myself either…but loved its drydown and sillage on/from others
As always, a lovely review, Kevin. I'm quite a fan of Egoiste, also.
In the early 90's, when I was in University, we used to open & clap our dorm windows shut and squeal EGOISTE! across the way to each other. They were thost slim 2-part windows that opened outward (I'm certain long since replaced for safety reasons), and it was a dorm with a courtyard, so windows faced other windows.
Hmmm… now that I read it in print, that sounds like something I should be embarrassed to admit, but I revel too much in the cheese to be blushing over it. Ah, good times! lol.
You know when the salesperson at the fragrance counter is counting the minutes until her break when she sells you the WRONG bottle, gift wraps it and sends you on your merry way. Imagine my surprise/annoyance on Christmas morning when my husband opened up a bottle of Egoiste Platinum instead of the Egoiste I was planning on!
I will say that I don't hate it, although I'm no fan of ozonic, sporty men's fragrances. And it's a damn sight better than the Joop! he was wearing when I met him (yes, and I married him anyway). But… big pout… ITS NOT WHAT I WANTED!
TwoPeasINAPod: did you wear ball gowns and full makeup too? HA! Being “dramatic” is something to be proud of…anything but boring, right?
Jessica: that IS terrible! And something that easily happens with all these flankers with similar names!
I recommend thr Perfumed Court for samples. I am completely biased but this is my all time favourite men's fragrance.
I tried Egoiste last night and was in total heaven! What a wonderful scent. I could smell it on my arm this morning too.
Yummm! We can all associate scents with certain people, places, times in our lives . . I can't smell Egoiste without stopping still in my tracks . . to recall a former lover. It's so sweet to be walking along a busy city street and catch the scent of a perfect stranger passing by, but be reminded of a long ago lover. Eau Savage does that to me too. Above there was a mention of Egoiste as the flip side of Bois des Isles. What do you think? How would Egoiste fit in the Polge portfolio? Say, as Eau Savage is to Diorella, Egoiste is to_______________________?
Pearlymom: maybe others will chime in, but honestly…I don't think anything else at Chanel smells like Egoiste.
SFLizbeth: glad you enjoyed it!
By and large, even though individualism is celebrated as a desirable attribute, actually comparatively very few people dare to engage in it. Now, we are talking about something as, well, let's face it: Intimate(!) as scents, and smells, and odors, and how we percieve them and how others percieve what we smell like! Wow! Now we are really treading on what could be, for many, if not most, people, forbidden territory! So, most curl up in their pathetic little cocoons of Aqui Di Whatzeewhat or Acqua De Whoknows and hope that, while they might by chance, smell at least somewhat pleasing to those around them, they won't stand out too much, if at all. Then they won't have to do the work of actually being themselves, of taking responsibility for their lives.
I do too! Men's scents often smell better on me than the womens!
Have not tried the Egoiste- shall have to check it out.
Thanks, all!
Have you given Aramis 900 a try? It is a very nice scent- try a sample- the Perfumed Court should carry it.
Well, then, they probably smell quite nice on you! Wear what makes You Happy! that's the main thing-Enjoy!
CB, Gendarme (for men) is another lovely scent, very powdery and soft.
Darling, let me join in
you are soso right, and guess what, I am really not simple to ease. Lucky you that you found the right guy that can wear that!
KevinS 's right, we may love what we may.
Hi Pearlymom – sorry this is a bit late. It was my comment above re Bois des Iles/Egoiste possible connection and I thought I should clarify. They're not alike in the way of Eau Savauge and Diorella but I thought I could smell a similarity in the dry down and when I re read the entry for Egoiste in The Guide LT mentions the same idea – a similarity in the dry down (thank goodness! I was beginning to think I was imagining things!)
Sadly, no we didn't. And that has remained a regret of mine to this day. Darn you, Grunge!
Kevin, may I ask witch concentration of Pour Monsieur do you prefer? I love the '55 (Henri Rober's) one, but I never tried Polge's Concentree version.
Or are we awaiting for your review of this one so I'll find my answer there?
Thank you so much for your reviews. They are always so inspiring and mood lifting.
jmenfous: thanks! Pour Monsieur is “in the queue” to be reviewed; I like the original version. K
Nice review–I just purchased Egoiste online and am dying to sniff/wear it (I have a history of purchasing unsniffed…)
Several reviews off basenotes mention that this is a cooler weather fragrance and that if one is not careful it can become over-powering–any thoughts?
Also, I really want a rose garden after reading this review.
Ig.
Ignatius: I tend to think of Egoiste as a cool weather fragrance too. I hope the unsniffed purchase is a success; I’ve had a bad track record so far this year (but thankfully the duds were purchased at a discount).
I see Platinum Egoiste divides opinion here. For me, it’s a suble, esoteric step up from Eternity, which has been a long time staple of mine. Platinum makes me feel masculine in its sublimely detached aura of scents. Should complement my Allure Blanche Edition very nicely.
Searching for Egoiste original, seems like a quest for the holy grail.
Obssernity: I still like Eternity (though I have not bought it in ages). And don’t spend TOO much time searching for Bois Noir…today’s Egoiste is great too.
I loves this Egoiste Platinum on my man! It lasts forever and honestly makes me want to tackle him when he comes home. But to each her own, right?
Kierah: YES!
My husband used to wear this for more than 10 years (since 1994). We were always remembering it as his best perfume, the one which suited him best. I bought him a bottle some days ago and we were both disappointed. The perfume is still the same but it says nothing to us. It smells lets say cheaper and soapy. I guess our taste has evolved …
The myth that the original Egoiste is unlike anything else ever seen needs to be challenged. The fragrance is a high quality modern interpretation of Old Spice. And Old Spice was originally based on a potpourri that perfumer Albert Hauck’s mother used to make, so it’s interesting that the author of this article refers to potpourri.