Dawn Spencer Hurwitz introduced Piment et Chocolat in 2003. The fragrance features notes of black pepper, paprika, pimento, red chili, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, cocoa beans and chocolate. It starts with sweet chocolate and very strong, almost sneeze-worthy pepper notes. As it dries down, the sweetness largely disappears, and the initial kick from the pepper is tempered by the other spices; just enough red chili remains to add some heat. The end result is a warm, almost dusty combination of spices and dry cocoa.
It strikes a nice balance — it is foody, but not candied, and softer than the notes might indicate. It is a cozy kind of fragrance, perfect for a cold winter night spent by the fire. But it is in the Parfums des Beaux Arts line, and it isn't cheap: 1/3 oz of Eau de Parfum is $60, 1 oz is $135. I like it, but after three tries, I don't adore it enough to pay the price.
I have tried 20-odd fragrances from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz so far, and while I have liked several of them, I have yet to find one that I absolutely must own. Two others I liked but not quite enough to buy were Mahjoun and Cardamom & Khyphi (both of which, I should add, are much cheaper than the Piment et Chocolat). However, if you check out the dizzying array of fragrances on her website, you will see that I have barely scraped the surface. If you have a recommendation for a must-try from this line, please comment!
I've read so much about DSH, but never sniffed any of her fumes. She has a big cult following, and I say, good for her — I'm glad to see a niche perfumer making it. I do agree – she has a dizzying array of fumes, for sure. I guess the Libra in me is both overwhelmed by the choices, and yes, not willing to spring for synths in fumes. Maybe I'll get some samples one day and see what all the love is about.
A, agree — love to see an independent make a name in this business. I don't think it is easy to do. She is so prolific though that it is hard to know where to start in terms of sampling.
Hey, did you see the reader query below (last article today)? Might be a question you can answer.
R, just like you, I smelled quite some of DSH scents but nothing was worth that kind of money for me.
Piment et Chocolat sounds very sniff-worthy and I can't believe I haven't tried it yet. (but even samples are quite expensive, you know, if one doesn't want to buy a set).
M, it is quite sniff-worthy, but the sample isn't cheap either…I think it is $6.
R, can't answer the kiehl's musk question because it is pure synthetic stuff. Ambrette seed absolute in virgin coconut oil is exquisite, but not that scent she wants. Just different, musky, sexy.
I wanted to make a note about the Piment in the DSH perfume. It's probably not pimento, as some might think. It's the Caribbean/Old World name for allspice berry. You mention the spice note you detected — that is what it is. Botanical name Pimenta dioica. Lost a tree to Hurricane Wilma
R, I think DSH is a lovely woman, and I would love to be a big fan. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find anything in her prodigious collection that I like. It could be that the base she uses, particularly in her oils, just does not agree with my body chemistry.
I know she has a lot of fans and loyal customers, and I wish her nothing but the best.
Hugs!
Anya, are you sure about the pimento? Chocolate flavoured with pimento is sold at the most exclusive chocolatiers here in the UK: it's rapidly becoming a 'traditional' combination.
Hi, R! Had I not been distracted by the pimento conundrum that's word for word what I would have said about DSH and her creations. (Hope you're well.
J, The DSH site actually says “pimento berry”, which I'm pretty sure means allspice, as Anya says. Now I'm trying to decide if I would like a chocolate-red pepper combo, to eat I mean. Are they good?
R & J, it may turn out that I will agree with you both. There are so many perfumes in her line that I always wonder if I've just not yet tried the one that I would love.
Pimento berry and allspice *are* the same thing. I've been dying to try all the exquisite-sounding chocolates out there! The ones flavored with pimento, violet, etc…
Robin, have you tried L'Arbre? It's a really good green one.
Thanks, haven't tried it and will add it to my list. Love most anything with green notes.
I am yet to find at least one fragrance from the line that works for me. The oils are particularly difficult for me to wear.
J, so good to read your response! I am hanging in there, and hope that you are doing the same, too.
My best to you this Holiday Season!
I was just wandering around the DSH website last night. I'm interested in her vintage line — Cabochard type, Chypre type, etc. I've read some complimentary things regarding these on Basenotes but haven't tried any. You can order 10 samples for $10, so I'm making my list. It is snowing hard here — time to dig out something cozy… l'Artisan Tea for Two?
I “discovered” DSH about 2 years ago & have been sampling her blends ever since. The most cost effective way to try her blends is to purchase the “Sampler Packs” from the left side of her website.
The ones I wear are Antique Rose, Cathedral, Cafe Noir layered with her Vanille. The Afternoon is a lovely summer fragrance but my favorite warm weather scent is April Be Spring
Dawn's Vintage fragrance duplicates are really wonderful: especially Baroque (Bal a Versailles), Jicky Type & Mitsouko Type. I own the originals but the DSH interpretations are lovely on their own.
V, the Piment et Chocolat is an EdP, but agree, don't care in general for the oils as much as the EdPs.
M, Haven't tried them, but have also read nice things, and I think that whole vinage line is on sale at the moment too.
Just starting to see some flakes here…not excited about it, I have to say!
C, thanks for all those recs! Just looked at the descriptions…Cafe Noir especially sounds perfect for a day like today.
Ok, R, that sounds good too (although I know it sounds better than it smells: I have tested Piment et Chocolat and not liked it much). Re. pimento: are we talking about the same thing? The pimento used to flavour chocolate is the tiny red fiery plant/fruit/veg (don't know what to call it), yes? Not the big red pepper (that also comes in green and yellow). It's used in minute quantity in very dark bitter choc. It's fantastic.
Very best wishes to you too, R!
R, thank you for the review! I was always wondering what Piment et Chocolat smells like (I didn´t want to order a sample) – now I got at least an impression.
The only chocolate scent that I like & wear is Spicy Cocoa form the CdG Sweet Series – many people don´t like this fragrance but I find it really cosy without being too foody (<- which is always my biggest fear
).
I´m sorry that I´m not able to recommand you a DSH scent that is - at least in my opinion - bottle-worthy! I´ve various samples & while I like them I don´t love them & yet haven´t felt the need to purchase one.
I mainly tested the perfume oils & there was always an odd smell in the dry-down which put me off a bit.
Bela, have you tasted the chocolates? Are they clove/cinnamony or spicy/savory? I can see that some might mix in the spice pepper — after all — that's half way to mole
Greenwoman, the link to the article on Isabelle of L'Arome that Robin provided today should satisfy you. She makes a chocolate ganache, and it can be your choice of fragipani, jasmine, lime, etc. It is meant for use inside or outside the body
Robin, there are many nicely-flavored red peppers that have little heat, if that's what you're concerned about. Mexican cuisine uses them in combo with chocolate, as in moles and desserts. I love the powdered Ancho I get from Penzeys.com
I use it to make homemade enchilada sauce, moles (with unsweetened cocoa).
LOL — I get my anchos at Penzeys too, for the very rare times I make Carne Adovada. And love Mole. But a sweet chocolate with peppers just doesn't sound appealing!
I think we're talking about the same thing…a small red pepper, like a chili pepper, and not a bell pepper.
Whereas in the perfume above, it is, I think, a pimento berry, or allspice, something different from what you are talking about in the chocolates.
S, I loved the start of Spicy Cocoa, but couldn't get it to last on my skin at all. Perhaps I need to try it in a spray form — just had a little sample vial and it didn't impress me at all.
R, I had a spray-sample, so I cannot compare the lasting powers between being sprayed on or being dapped on the skin.
It doesn´t last on my skin for very long either but in this case I don´t care too much about it. It´s wonderful as long as it lasts
It must be better with a spray…honestly I don't think I get 20 minutes out of it with a vial. I don't mind reapplying something wonderful, but that is too short for me
Vosges Chocolate, based in Chicago (the main one in the Nordstrom building on Michigan Ave) makes wonderful chocolate truffles with chilis, violets, all kinds of exotic things. In fact, this perfume sounds like their Aztec Hot Chocolate (WHICH IS out of this world!!!) I am wanting to try a sample of this perfume very badly. Perfume is a very expensive habit.
Oh no, I would LOVE to try truffles with violets, and double oh no, they have a website. Off to drool…
The truffles with the violets are with a light chocolate, which are really nice (although I am a dark chocolate girl myself). The chocolate from Vosges is the BEST chocolate I have ever tried. I moved to Europe from Chicago (spent five years there, and most of my life in New Orleans). I love really good chocolate as much as I love perfume. Order some of the Vosges (or if you are near NYC, I know it is available there). It is WAY worth it.
I'm another dark chocolate kind of girl. These look wonderful, but *must* wait until after the holidays — my credit card is quite worn out for the month!
This is one of my favorite fragrances and one I can only wear in cold weather. It has a very similar vibe to Mexican hot chocolate. Vosages spicy hot chocolate has a very similar smell to Piment et Chocolat.
S, Love Mexican hot chocolate, so do try not to keep it in the house! Can't take all these Vosges mentions, LOL…
Hi there! I just stumbled across this blog while searching for something else, and wanted to comment. I was lucky enough to meet Dawn years ago, when she was still working on Newbury Street. At that time she was doing custom blends, although I'm not sure if she still does them. However, I have a lovely “signature” scent that she helped me create, and I have had a wonderful time experimenting with her sampler packs. For those of you who have not yet found your perfect perfume through her company, I would highly encourage you to keep trying! Also, speak to her if you can, she is a great source of information and of ideas.
I love the idea of a blog about perfumes! This is a wonderful site, and beautifully set up. I can't wait to see what else comes up as I explore.
Take care,
Emmie
Welcome Emmie, and so glad you like the blog! I am pretty sure DSH still does custom blends. I did talk to Dawn on the phone once, a very long time ago when ordering samples, and she was very nice and helpful. I think I just haven't found the right perfume yet
Hi! As a bit of trivia: Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz had a partner when she owned Essense…it was Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Creative Scentualization. I love her Perfect Vanilla! Two very creative ladies who are now creating wonderful perfumes for the rest of us.
Take care,
Emmie
Thanks for mentioning that, E, I think I read that at some point & had forgotten it entirely.