Linda Pilkington opened her boutique, Ormonde Jayne, in November of 2002. According to Linda, the Evening Standard ran a half page story and the day after she opened there was a queue around the block. At the time she had only one fragrance, Ormonde; she has since added 6 more: Champaca, Frangipani, Tolu, Sampaquita, Osmanthus, and an Ormonde version for men. Oops...make that 7 more: I left out Ta'if!
I ordered a set of samples from Ormonde Jayne in December of 2003, and the line quickly became one of my favorites. Sincere thanks to Linda for participating in this interview, which was conducted by email.
What was your career before you became a perfumer?
Before I became a perfumer, I worked for a Japanese Agrichemical Company in London called Nihon Noyaku.
I know from your website that you got your start in the perfume business when you were asked to create a scented candle for another company. Can you tell me if you have any formal training in perfumery, or did you learn on your own?
I have been collecting perfume and essences from all around the world since I was 14 years old. I do have a huge collection of vintage bottles and perfumes. I have actually kept every single bottle of perfume I have ever worn. As a young lady, I would describe myself as a craftswoman. Not only formulating perfume, but I also grew plants from seed and made the best yummiest chocolates in the world. As you so rightly mention, I was asked to create a scented candle for Chanel and it went from there. The person who asked me is a long standing friend of 25 years, we used to live near in other in Africa. I have since been on a more formal path, benefiting from one to one tuition…but you can’t beat experience and practise.
Linda, one of the things that draws me to your line is that your perfumes seem so completely different from other fragrances on the market. You use some unusual fragrance notes as well -- I am thinking particularly of the basmati rice in Champaca and the black hemlock in Ormonde. Can you comment on what you think makes your fragrances different and unusual?
What makes Ormonde Jayne perfumes different … it’s my approach. I look for flowers, resins, woods that no one else has thought of using, hence the Champaca, Sampaquita and Ta’if etc. Every one has sandalwood or cedar, but no one has a perfume from black hemlock. Of course all the sourced ingredients have to have an extraordinary beauty.
How do I put it all together, well it’s quite simple really. For example the Champaca is a flower from India, it only seems logical and natural to team it up with basmati rice and tea. The Ta’if is a rose from Saudi Arabia. Dates and orange blossom are the natural harmony. So there you have it, that’s my secret.
Which of your own creations are you most proud of, and why?
All my perfumes are absolutely stunning. For creativity it has to be Ormonde + Champaca. For pure beauty you can’t beat Sampaquita and Frangipani Absolute. For the hottest days in summer, only Osmanthus will do. And for sexy nights, romantic dinners and parties, you can’t leave home without wearing Tolu or Ta’if.
Are there any particular smells that attract you? Any that repel you?
I am attracted to gourmand smells, for instance, the smell of basmati rice make me feel calm, secure and homely. Having said that, if I smell any food that is going off or is off, I vomit instantly! (Sorry about that, but you did ask).
Can you tell me what perfumes you enjoyed using before you created your own line?
I rather enjoyed perfumes from the house of Guerlain as a general rule, I think I have worn them all at some point. Also Chanel, I was big on Cristalle every summer.
At this time Linda's fragrances are only available through the Ormonde Jayne boutique at 28 Old Bond Street in the Royal Arcade, London, or through the Ormonde Jayne website.
Tomorrow: Ormonde Jayne Champaca
Thanks for sharing this. I have met Linda several times (in fact every time I am in London) and she is utterly charming and loves to talk about perfumes. I have also had the pleasure of smelling perfumes that are in the process of being created since Sampaquita… Right now she is creating one that is like a cologne for men and women – I have tried them a month ago and I think whatever she sets out to create – they will be stunning. I have bought most of her perfumes except Ta'if. My absolute favourites are Ormonde, Champaca, Tolu, Frangipani, Osmanthus. Somehow Sampaquita did not wow me. It smells stunning on my mom.
PS I do like Ormonde for Men too! ;D
Thanks N, I can't wait for her to release another fragrance! And of course, I would love to visit the store. One of these days I'll get back to London.
Fantastic Robin! It is a lovely and informative interview. I am so excited for Ormonde Jayne week!
Hugs
Annie
Champaca and Ormonde are still two of my favorite scents ever, in a collection that includes scents by L'Artisan, Diptyque, Chanel, Hermes, Serge Lutens, and a slew of other hoity toity names. If I had to pick a top 5, they'd be Ormonde, Bois des Iles, Champaca, Chanel No. 19 and Chanel Cuir de Russie, in that order. And Ormonde for Men worn by my husband is still, without fail, guaranteed to send me flying across the room to cover his neck with kisses.
It's also charming how Linda doesn't bother with fake modesty — “All my perfumes are absolutely stunning.” Go on, girl, say it like it is… By the way, did she mention which Chanel candle she created? I wasn't even aware Chanel *did* candles.
Wow! Thanks for such a great article! Oddly, I just placed my first order with Ormonde Jayne, sight unsniffed – I purchased the Ta'if. Now I'm wondering if I should have gone for the Champaca instead.
I look forward to reading more about Linda's fragrances. It's always interesting to me to know the throught process behind a particular fragrance. Again, thanks for the great articles.
Hi R –
Great interview. As you know I am a big fan and will probably order Frangipane next. I count Tolu as one of my top 5 and have been getting quite a number of compliments on Sampaquita lately. I look forward to smelling real sampaquita next month when I am in the Philippines. As always – this is THE place to come for fragrance news. So happy you had a great time in NYC. I look forward to your next entry
Thanks for sharing that interview Robin. Linda has a beautiful line of unique fragrance and its so interesting to hear her thought!
Hey OJ sister! You & I really need to do a trip to London, don't we? For the millionth time, DRAT THE EXCHANGE RATE…it is so discouraging. It is sad but true that the main reason I care about the falling dollar is that it is impacting my perfume buying.
I didn't know Chanel did candles either, and no, I have no idea which one! Have heard the OJ candles are fabulous, but at the current exchange rate I am not likely to ever discover them for myself.
It is so hard to buy unsniffed, and unfortunately I am not good at it. The Ta'if is “prettier” than the Champaca, and probably a safer purchase. I hope you love it!!!
F, thanks for checking in, I will call off the private detectives
Thanks L, glad you enjoyed it!
That was a very nice interview, and a charming read. I love that you didn't bother her or your readers with any stupid questions – those were all informed questions that led her to reveal interesting details about herself. Thanks for an interesting morning read!
Hello R and all the lovely ladies – just wanted to mention that the Chanel candle she mentioned I believe is one that perfumes the boutique (not for sale there) and that Linda first got noticed for her candles. :))
A fabulous interview! I have a sample of Ormande somewhere but I've never tried it! I have to sample the entire line now! Thanks!
Thank you, I'm so glad you liked the interview
Thanks N, that makes sense.
Thanks S! The whole line is worth trying, and that is more than I would say about most lines. I wish I loved fewer of them though, they are not cheap
Thank you for this great interview, R! I would love to see Linda's perfume collection, wouldn't you?
An interesting interview, Robin — thank you. And inspirational. I just went and spritzed Ta'if six — count 'em, six — times. I'm in heaven. And so is everyone in my immediate atmosphere.
Thanks for a fabulous interview article, R!
I do hope you will review Tolu this week. I have fallen in love with my Tolu sample and am now contemplating a purchase despite the horrible exchange rate.
Funny that I didn't even think of that — but yes, I would!
LOL — good thing everyone else in your immediate atmosphere likes Ta'if too!
I, I don't have any Tolu! I tried it very early on, but it did not captivate me as much as the others. I need to revisit it one of these days. I was going to ask for comments on Tolu & Sampaquita (another one I don't have) on Saturday, but if you feel moved to review it, do add a comment any day you like.
Wow! Look at all these responses! Great inteview, thanks Robin! I love gourmands too, but interestingly the Champaca is my least favorite. I own Frangipani and decants of 4 others I hope to own one day!
V.
Hi R and everyone!
What a great article you wrote, R. I can just hear Linda saying those things. She is TINY with auburn hair and very perky and attractive. She's pictured on her website (not the blonde, of course!) Of all of her scents, Tolu and Ormonde are my favorites, with Frangipane and Osmanthus coming along behind. I think Champaca is brilliant, but I don't wear rice. For some reason. I loved Ta'if at first, but then it later grew a little murky and headache-inducing. I'll try it again, now that spring is here..
I first heard about Ormonde through Annie. This was the beginning of my Annie phase, which I'm still in ;D.
LA
http://www.laurelines.typepad.com
I've always been intrigued by the OJ's, especially LaureAnne's posts about Tolu on MUA. After reading your informative interview, Robin, I have to say, I'm off to get my credit card to order the sample set. I must try these all! Thanks for a great post today.
Champaca is certainly not your typical gourmand! But liking 5 out of 7 is really an amazing average. I can't think of any other line I rate that highly.
L, I am cracking up at “I don't wear rice”. Not a bad policy, actually.
The sample set is very worth the investment — can't wait to hear which ones you love!
Robin, thanks so much for posting this. I LOVE Ta'if, Ormonde and Sampaquita — all very elegant and unique. I've found my Holy Grails.
Trying to guess who you are…but no clue! But glad you liked the interview
Alas! Woe is me! I have tried the entire sample set of Ormonde Jayne and it left me perplexed. What is the attraction? Of all of them, I only liked the Isfarkand, liked, not loved. The Ormonde Woman is interesting, but not me. The Osmanthus, which I so very much looked forward to, having been stuck in an Osmanthus phase ever since I discovered TDC Osmanthus, is a strange citrusy mix that dries down to no-osmanthus. Throughout the line, a sour, citric tinge pervades. All of the florals (Champaca, Sampaquita …) are nice, but not done in a way that made me constantly want to sniff my wrists and yearn for my very own bottle. Is something wrong with my nose? I am so un-enthralled with the whole Jayne Ormonde experiment.
There is definitely a commonality to the line, and you're not the first to notice it, nor are you the first to end up un-enthralled. I suppose it is a matter of personal taste. I just adored most of them from the first sniff. But sorry if you wasted the money on a sample set. Of course, you've saved yourself a bundle by not needing any full bottles!!
Chanel candles?? This post popped up when I googled Chanel candles. Anyone know more? What? When? Where? How? How much? Thanx.
Sorry — I've no idea! Maybe email OJ to ask??