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Browsing by tag: serge lutens

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 19 October 2005 52 Comments

Serge Lutens Miel de BoisSerge Lutens Miel de Bois

After yesterday’s discussion of Cèdre, I thought I would revisit Miel de Bois, yet another Serge Lutens fragrance that I initially disliked but slowly came to appreciate. It was released earlier this year; the nose, as always, was Christopher Sheldrake, and the fragrance notes are ebony, gaiac and oak wood, aquilaria aguillocha, honey, beeswax, iris and hawthorn.

Miel de Bois is an unusual fragrance, and to be honest, I recoiled in dismay the first time I smelled it. It starts with heavy, very dry woods overlaid with raw honey. If that sounds lovely, well, think again…

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Perfume review: Serge Lutens Cedre

Posted by Robin on 18 October 2005 40 Comments

Serge Lutens Cedre fragranceSerge Lutens Cedre fragrance

Cèdre was released by Serge Lutens this year, around the same time as Bornéo 1834. Both fragrances were created in collaboration with nose Christopher Sheldrake. Cèdre joined the export line while Bornéo was launched into the exclusive line. Why? I don’t know. The notes for Cèdre are tuberose, cloves, cinnamon, amber, musk, and cedar.

A friend described the top notes of Cèdre to me as spiced apple cider (or just a spiced apple? I have a terrible memory), and that is apt, although perhaps spiced, wood-aged hard cider comes closer. It is very rich and warm and sweet, with fruity undertones and just the slightest hint of the mentholated opening of Tubéreuse Criminelle.

As it dries down the tuberose intensifies…

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Perfume review: Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist

Posted by Robin on 21 September 2005 72 Comments

Serge Lutens Bell Jar imageSerge Lutens Bell Jar image

Iris Silver Mist was launched in 1994. It is one of the few Serge Lutens fragrances that is not attributed solely to nose Christopher Sheldrake; it was created by Maurice Roucel, either alone or in collaboration with Christopher Sheldrake. The notes are iris pallida root, galbanum, cedar, sandalwood, clove, vetiver, musk, benzoin, incense, and white amber.

Iris Silver Mist starts with damp, dirt-caked roots, spicy and peppery, with a touch of dry, mossy green…

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Quick sniffs: Laura Mercier Ambre Passion, Fresh Memoirs of A Geisha & more

Posted by Robin on 29 August 2005 43 Comments

Serge Lutens Nombre Noir fragrance

This weekend I did a very small fragrance shopping trip with my friend B. Our local opportunities are limited, to say the least, but here is what we managed to smell:

Laura Mercier Ambre Passion: The notes are listed as amber with a bit of geranium, and that is exactly what it smells like: lots of amber cut with a bit of geranium. It is not a dark, resinous amber, nor is it particularly sweet, nor is it foody. Just a middle of the road amber, plain and simple. I would love to hear from any amber fanatics who have tried this perfume; I am not an amber lover and it did nothing for me at all…

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New & upcoming fragrances: Serge Lutens, Maria Sharapova, Sean Combs

Posted by Robin on 26 August 2005 10 Comments

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

The latest from Serge Lutens, Borneo 1834, will be an homage to Indonesian Patchouli, and will feature floral notes, galbanum, patchouli, cacao accord, and ciste labdanum. (via Osmoz) I have seen several glowing reports on the fragrance boards from people who have smelled wax samples, and Luca Turin has already reviewed it on his blog, Perfume Notes (sorry, link no longer working). Unfortunately, it will be in the exclusive range so those of us in the United States will have to beg, borrow or steal to get a bottle…

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