Tom Ford launched the Private Blend Collection in 2007. There were 12 of them (now there are more). They were (and still are, of course) expensive; they were in very limited distribution (that has eased somewhat). I smelled four of them on blotters (a friend had small lab samples) before they were launched, didn’t love any of them, and promptly decided, for the sake of my sanity (there were already over 800 fragrance releases that year), to ignore the collection entirely. Kevin apparently decided the same (are we cranky, or what?) but he eventually fell to temptation (see his review of Purple Patchouli), and passed a set of samples on to me, and I’ve been working my way through them slowly. My favorite so far: Oud Wood…
Montale Red Aoud & Agallocha Tedallal Homme ~ fragrance reviews
I love the richness and unabashed potency of Middle Eastern and Indian fragrances. One of my first ‘exotic’ fragrance purchases was a tiny jar of waxy sandalwood-amber paste from India; a few dabs of that dense perfume paste on my collar bone scented me all day long. The perfume paste also came in the scents of orange blossom, rose, lotus and jasmine, and the entire line was advertised using the image of a turbaned man applying the perfume paste to his throat. Slowly and, unfortunately, turban-less, I ventured into floral territory with my fragrance purchases. The simple, inexpensive Indian perfumes opened up a new world to me: I started reading about the history of perfumery, I created “to-smell lists” of individual plant and animal perfume notes, and I started burning incense and wearing fragrances from India, Nepal, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Morocco. Both Montale Red Aoud and Agallocha Tedallal Homme were inspired by Middle Eastern perfumery…
Montale White Aoud fragrance review, with asides on a few more Montale oudhs
I had originally meant to include White Aoud in yesterday’s review of Black Aoud, but ran out of time. Today’s post is thus something of a postscript, and if you aren’t already familiar with Montale’s oudh line, you might want to start by reading the Black Aoud review. White Aoud features notes of rose, saffron, oudh, cardamom, jasmine, patchouli, sandalwood, precious wood, amber, vetiver, vanilla and labdanum.
White Aoud starts out sweet. It probably only counts as very sweet in comparison to the bone-dry Black Aoud, but still, the sweetness masks most of the medicinal notes in the opening: White Aoud doesn’t scream “agarwood!” to the same degree as Black Aoud. There is the same rose and wood, and a touch of Black Aoud’s leather, but in White Aoud the result is creamier and paler, and muted by a light dusting of powder. It feels like a spicy floral underscored by dark woods rather than the other way around, and the vanilla in the dry down gives it something of a comfort scent feel. Between Black Aoud, White Aoud and Aoud Roses Petals, White Aoud is the one I would wear to tea — it has none of Black Aoud’s raw edge, and while all the Aoud scents feel unisex, White Aoud is a bit more feminine…
Montale Black Aoud ~ fragrance review
I love deep wood fragrances, the deeper the better. I’m trying to think of a fragrance with too much wood for my taste, and probably one exists but offhand I can’t think of what it would be. You can pile on the cedar or the redwoods or the sandalwood: bring it on, I’m happy. Few woods are deeper and richer than agarwood (aka aloeswood, and sometimes called oudh). Agarwood is now threatened in the wild due to overharvesting, and scarcity and high prices mean that much of the “oudh” used in incense and perfumery today is synthetic or adulterated to one degree or another…
10 Corso Como fragrance review
10 Corso Como is the fashionable Milan boutique of “style guru” Carla Sozzani. Since opening in 1991, the business has expanded to include a design gallery, bookstore, restaurant, and even a small B & B called 3Rooms. The eponymous fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Gillotin and launched in 1999, and features notes of rose, geranium, vetiver, musk, sandalwood and Malay oud-wood oil.
The 10 Corso Como fragrance opens on a sour-sweet medicinal haze that has been compared to gasoline; the rose and geranium slowly emerge as recognizeable elements as the oudh calms…