When the 12 Tom Ford Private Blend fragrances were released simultaneously in 2007, I threw up my hands. I was already drowning in untried samples of new fragrances, and obtaining samples of the Private Blends would have required either begging friends in New York to trudge to the Tom Ford store or ordering the samples online myself (clicking “BUY NOW” 12 times didn’t sound like fun). I ‘forgot’ about the Private Blends until recently when a reader of Now Smell This (a fragrance lover from Brooklyn, NY) decided my ignorance of the Tom Ford Private Blends was inexcusable; he sent me samples of 10 of the fragrances immediately and I obtained the two other fragrance samples from a friend in Los Angeles who got them from Neiman Marcus. (Thank you both!)
I don’t dislike any of the Private Blends; they are made from high-quality ingredients and many of them provide a level of complexity and development that is lacking in most fragrances I sample. After wearing all the Private Blends, my favorites are The Classic (Neroli Portofino) and The Weirdo (Purple Patchouli).
Purple Patchouli was created by perfumer David Apel (who also developed Bois Rouge in this series) and contains orchid accord, citrus, purple patchouli accord, leather, amber, vetiver, Peru balsam and “spices.” Purple Patchouli starts off with citrus (lime?), spices (these are indistinct and I notice a note I’ll describe as “cinnamonwood” — not food-y cinnamon) and a buoyant, tropical/sultry flower note (must be the mysterious orchid accord). I’ve smelled plenty fragrant orchids and the orchid accord in Purple Patchouli must be “engineered” but it still smells like Mother Nature, and not just Father Givaudan, had some involvement in its creation. Of course I don’t have access to the orchid and purple patchouli accords that were created for this fragrance — but the moment I smelled Purple Patchouli, my nose did a double sniff — the perfume smelled new (strange) and vibrant.
Purple Patchouli possesses a scintillating spiciness, a delicious, focused floral note with hints of fruitiness (the type of fruitiness one smells in jasmine blossoms) and a smooth, rich leather note that blends well with the spice and floral notes. My nose does not “register” patchouli and most people who smelled this on me did not detect patchouli at all; only one friend, who met me on a day I had been wearing Purple Patchouli for over 10 hours, said: “PATCHOULI!” upon hugging me. Purple Patchouli lasts for ages on my skin and as the hours pass, it smells at times like an exotic “cola syrup” and at other times like a “liquid” leather-scented talcum powder. I find all Purple Patchouli’s stages interesting; it’s sharp, forceful and unusual.
I chose the purple smoke photo to illustrate this review not just because it’s purple, but because when I wear Purple Patchouli I don’t feel the perfume is ON me or being warmed by my body, I feel it is swirling around me, independent, and separate from my skin. This weird sensation, coupled with Purple Patchouli’s original accords, puts me into a good mood.
Tom Ford Purple Patchouli is unisex and it has great lasting power and sillage — so apply accordingly. Purple Patchouli is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum for $180 and 250 ml Eau de Parfum for $450. For buying information, see the listing for Tom Ford under Perfume Houses.
Note: image is incensed by spacepleb at flickr; some rights reserved.
For some reason, I got a blast of violet when I tried this. Perhaps it was the orchid? Anyway, the clash of this plus patchouli ruined it for me. I gave it only one try, though, so maybe this fall I'll have another go at it.
This was not one of my favorite (I was one of those that sampled all 12 the week they came out), but interesting that when I encoutered the entire line at Neiman Marcus my husband found the Purple Patchouli the most interesting. I gave him a look, like 'no way', but he sniffed his arm all night. When I told him the price, he about fainted.
I might have to add this to his Xmas list.
Your description of an 'exotic cola syrup' made me think of Gucci by Gucci (for women). The first time I sniffed it on my skin, I said (out loud), 'Cola!' and the SA giggled.
How can I order samples? This sounds incredible.
Purple Haze. Sounds good.
The Perfumed Court carries them. You can purchase various sample sizes there.
Love this scent, but I wear Patchouli well. Hubby loves this scent too.
mahgwet: it seems to be one of those love it or hate it scents.
Mike: cola's nice! And Purple Patchouli WOULD make a good Xmas gift.
Jill: if you live near Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf or Saks Fifth Ave. I'd try to get a sample in person…dress nice and act entitled, you will be given a HUGE sample! If you are far far away from those places, The Perfumed Court carries samples of the line.
dissed: try it when you have the chance….
SFLizbeth: so you get “patchouli” when you wear it?
Wow, this is the first beamingly positive review I've seen of this one–the only other ones I've seen have mostly consisted of “yuck!” so I didn't give this one the chance that I gave all the rest. Plus, I'm discovering that I'm not exactly a patchoulophile. Noir de Noir is far and away my favorite from the line, but I also thought Neroli Portofino was really well done.
Dressing nice and acting entitled will get you far in many areas of life, no?
I'm intrigued by your review of this. Perhaps a samp will go into my next perfumed court order.
Exist: Indeed! Purple Patchouli has a BIG personality…so do try it out.
C'est Nichist: I'm glad to be swimming against the tide then…as I am with Miel de Bois, Route du Vetiver and many others I'm sure. HA!
Kevin, I can't wait to try this! Thanks for the positive review. I love long-lasting fragrances that are exotic, so I must get this as well.
I tried Black Orchid and Japon Noir and I'm in love with both of them.
I like the fact that most of the line are unisex/shared and very exclusive.
I read that most of TF's perfumes have the word 'black' in them because it's his favourite shade!
Kevin, thank you for this nice review. Your gift from the Lauder company is undoubtedly in the mail by now and Tom must have cancelled a laser and tanning bed appointment today because of all the excited phone calls from the Marketing at Lauder today after reading your review and telling him “See? see? The idea of these exclusive scents was not a TOTAL flop after all, Tommy”.
Kevin: You actually saved that line! Tom better make your gift really substantial, like some Vintage Gucci Horsebit Suede Loafers or that Bile-Green leisure suit he designed for Madonna in 1996 for the MTV awards.
The reviews of the entire line of Tom Ford's fragrances have been less than stellar, but I have to admit that I went into the store looking to hawk a bottle of Oud-Aoud in view of my love for M7 by YSL…I ended up falling in love with Tobacco Vanille instead. Go figure!
Japon Noir smelled a bit like my ol' Parisian Grand-ma's dusty place that you and I discused at length. And Neroli Portofino, although beautiful, lacked the “novelty” factor. In conclusion, I still have not dished out the $450 for any of them bottles. In this economy!?! Hell no! This line was made for the sheiks in Dubai since every 2 weeks I alone send them enough green to buy a bottle just by filling my SUV's big tank!
Eric
Eric: No doubt I've dissed some other Lauder scent in my time and have negated this review! (What was the outcome of your Dior Dilemma?) I like Tabacco Vanille too; and my DEAR, you can always buy the $185 bottle…must the most EXPEN$IVE bottle always be your only choice???????? K
desmondorama: maybe Tom is coming out of his Black phase..we have White Patchouli now and Italian Cypress…Champaca Absolute…Arabian Wood on the way.
I am traveling to New York in September, where should I go? Is there a Tom Ford store? I am so excited! I've always wanted to try all of the Tom Ford. I'm a big fan of Black Orchid.
StarAngel: There's a Tom Ford boutique at 845 Madison Ave.
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/03/fashion/03CRITIC.html. If that does not sound like your thing: Bergdorf Goodman is another option with a great perfume department.
Kevin, the PRICES of these bring tears to my eyes, but this one has captured my attention lately and I'm hankering for a sample. Interesting the way you describe it not being warmed by your skin but rather swirling around and apart from you. Nice review and you've certainly made it sound worth trying.
I've also been DYING to try the Oud Wood — please tell me that I'm better served by any of the Montales (I'm awaiting a shipment of 20ml Red Aoud) so that I can kick this expensive lemming into the fjord once and for all. Will you review more of the TFPCs?
Thanks for spreading the PRIVATE BLEND love…feel honored to be the catalyst. I'm cherishing my first FB (oops 2!) of Montale…Red AND Golden Aoud! I can't read your reviews much longer…you are going to cause me to file chapter 11! Thanks Dahlink!
My opinion…no line does AOUD better than Montale..(own TF oud)…and RED knocks it out of the park! Hope it meets yer expectations.
This is really wonderful. I tried this when I was at Sniffapalooza in NY this April. And it was a favorite on my list of things. I now wish I had purchased a bottle.
Nice description of it.
Joe: I DO prefer the Montale aouds to the Tom Ford one…they pack more of a wallop (which I like).
BFL: oops…didn't see you had already endorsed the Montales as well. Agreeing once more….
BFL: Oh no…you have two dependants as well! RESTRAINT!
Kim: you should have gotten a bottle THEN…the prices are slowing increasing…these were “just” $160 a few weeks ago.
I tried several of the TFPB and to my surprise I liked all, but all of them smelled like a fierce male animal on me
the rep said oud wood smells like xx and I should give it a test, but none of my male friends reacted. i love the idea and the bottles, but I would not spend so much money on it. not yet:-)
mybeautyblog: like many things in life, we all SLOW-LY accept paying more…niche perfumes have gone over the $200 mark for even 50mls recently…and I'm not yet reconciled to paying that price unless I faint in pleasure with each application of the perfume in the bottle *hasn't happened yet. If I'm paying those prices I'd prefer to start paying for beautiful bottles filled with classics: let's say JOY in the snuff bottle flacon!
you pay for the whoule concept, scent, bottle, commercial, niche – okay. but everything got unreasonable expensive, especially in the cosmetic and beauty industry (think of a lipstick for 28 euro=40USD) and I am not longer willing to play the game. but I confess – I do not have a car either
for perfumes: I will buy all few years something more expensive, but only when I am sure this love is going to last. and my limit is 150 usd. and I would say I am a connaisseur and an addict…
Whoo-hoo! thank you!
MBB, is smelling like a fierce male animal bad? It can be quite alluring…..
Kevin:
YES…They have to be large but not necessarily expensive
E: in this case, the large bottle IS better than the 50ml spray…and I know you love those bottles.
To Everyone: Since NY stores came up — Are there Washington DC stores to be recommended for exotics, the Tom Fords above and/or good bargains for good perfumes? I'm a fanatic – have just read the post about whether our perfumes will outlast us as well – stunning and sobering! Given that I am a South African living in Kenya, I can feel very DEPRIVED, when I read here of all the must-smells! It also means I can't even DO a count, because some are here in Kenya and some bottles in South Africa! I am traveling to DC on business, arriving ON my birthday, so apart from the duty free shops I will pass through, can someone recommend a DC must-shop for perfumes? Thanks a lot! Ida
Ida: DC has some swanky shopping centers for sure; March at perfumeposse.com lives in DC and would have the best info. (MARCH: are you there?) Also, it must make up for not having all the latest perfumes to see an elephant every so often!!! Not to mention the glorious coast of So Africa…the plants…animals….
Here in Wichita Ks the sales ladies who work at Dillards…Dillards, anyone? Am I the only one who's heard of them? Anyway it's our equivalent to Macy's. If you rush to the grocery store in your sweats and decide to get some, oh say new shade of Chanel lipstick or way cute silky Jammie's, and maybe sniff a few scents -the sales ladies there will look at you like garbage, and ignore you like the plague. I have actually waved a $50 bill around once will being snubbed. When one of them paused on their pedestal long enough to give me a quizzical stare, I asked if she was available to help me sample some fragrances. (BTW- also going to the lingerie Dpt. and buying some undies and having them put them in a huge bag with tissue paper helps too). Anyway my point being, over half the time, they don't know what silage, base or heart notes are. I must assume their pedestals are made of paper mache. They will say, “A lot of women like this here”, pointing to a bottle of Organza. My favorite experience was asking if something comes in the perfume and they looked down to the EDT case and pointed, looking at me like I was inbreed. Usually the supervisors will have some clue but, golly jeepers! Does wearing too much lip liner qualify you as a well trained snob?
whew! sorry.
Tom Ford's Purple Patchouli sounds cool. Love the alliteration
joy,
Becca
Hi alotofscents,
I used to work for Dillards in Sarasota FL as a Fragrance SA back in the mid-90's.
Yes, but the way Patchouli wears on me is very soft, powdery & vanilla-like. On me, it doesn't come across heavy or musky-woodsy at all.
Yahoo! I'm not alone. I'll bet you cared about your clientele. How does one work as a SA in fragrances without knowing at least the basics of fragrance?
Did you see any overdrawn lips? What is that about?
One of my friends was a Lancolm SA. She was very well versed on her products and shh! she used to tell me what worked and what was a waste of my money. And boy could she do makeup. She often made me feel like queen for a day.
Didn't mean all SAs are bad. I just think some of them have more self-confidence than they merit having.
Wow, what are your favorite mainstream scents? If I may ask?
joy,
foot in mouth Becca
Kevin and Ida,
I personally LOVE Bluemercury (1745 Connecticut Ave. NW) at Dupont Circle. Check http://www.bluemercury.com
They carry cosmetics and fragrances and some niche brands.
And if ever in doubt, go to Neiman Marcus at Tysons Corner, which has it all…
Eric
Thanks Eric!
alotofscents, I was crackin up at your posts! Especially these parts!
“-the sales ladies there will look at you like garbage, and ignore you like the plague.”
this was the funniest though!
“I have actually waved a $50 bill around once will being snubbed.”
LMAO!
Thank you JloveLamar! Sometimes I go off on a tangent. How ironic is it that the next one to post was a former SA? I almost thought she was making a joke (to bad, so sad).
But really, it is frustrating isn't it? You shouldn't have to put on an act to get good service.
Blend your Lipliner! You look scary! I bet if I waved $100 around I would get mobbed.
joy,
Becca
Just wanted to chime in and say that we also have Dillard's here in the central valley of California. YOU ARE NOT ALONE!!! One of us! One of us! We have a Dillard's AND a Macy's – right across the street from each other. I would give my left arm for a Nordstrom's or a Neiman Marcus. /sigh/ I miss the Bay Area sometimes.
There are Dillards in CA?
As for shopping, unfortunately, I live very close to SF. And I love Neiman MarkUp, I mean Marcus…..
New to town is Barney's (small space but fabulous) and Bloomingdales!
It's not helpful for my other “habit” shoes…..
Hi Becca, no worries, I didn't take offense at all.
Fragrance was one job I'd happily do for free! I enjoyed taking care of my customers, they were so much fun! After Dillards, I worked for a custom fragrance, skincare and cosmetics boutique.
Favorite mainstream frags are: Lovely, Egyptian Musk, by Body Time, Magie Noire by Lancome, Eau de Patou by Patou, Chanel no 5. The original Fendi, and Wrappings, by Clinique, which is only available during the Holidays.
And yes, I did see overdrawn lips, (and too-heavy foundation application). I think that makeup applied a light hand is preferable and brings out one's natural beauty.
Now that I'm over 40, a sheer makeup is more attractive and age-appropriate.
Tks a lot Eric and Kevin – I can't wait for those perfume mania moments, when I finally see rows and rows of desirables again!
True, lots of other sensory pleasures other than perfumes to be found in Kenya — but occasionally a gal needs some CdG/Hermes/Lutens, etc. I did recently find Bulgari Black here!
Thanks!
Ida
That's o.k., I understand. We have what I call our ” Wall to Walmart”
Super Walmart in the store deprived area I live in goes like this: Walk, Walk, stop, let mom with bratty adolescent pass, walk, walk, walk, almost crash into couple who are fighting and coming around the aisle without the courtesy pause, “excuse me” I say while I wonder why, I'm apologising? walk, walk, walk, walk, Yes! I made it four steps before the next apology, and so on.
I bet there are 1000 apologies going off almost simultaneously in that store. I live six blocks and avoid it like… an overcrowded store.
I am not without total love though. If I pretend it's a game I can seize the store! “Yeeha!, get out of my way old man!”
Dang them and their low prices.
They should install traffic lights in there!
and they don't even sell any cool perfume.
Dillard's is overpriced-but they have 80% off sales sometimes, but then they become Wall to Walmart .;ob
I'll check your fragrances out SFLizbeth. The only one I know is Lovely, and I have it and it's actually Lovely!
much Joy, and may the magic of incredible fragrances land on all your heads….and/or fly up your noses.
-Becca
Shaie, I'm jealous you have Macy's! Wichita seems to be the city that time forgot. I used to live in Atlanta and they have everything + more.
I am not alone!!! Thanks. :))))))))
Yes, I really should have, but I was sooo overwhelmed with sniffing so much, that I actually didn't buy anything, just brought home loads of samples, that I have yet to even try again, I must have 200 samples just waiting for trial.
I would love to know when reviews of the other PB scents will be written? I went to Harvey Nicks last weekend, and had a squirt of Purple Patchouli one wrist, and Noir de Noir on the other. PP smelt like a tart's boudoir (in a fabulous way!) and lasted for ever, become quite chalky and dusky towards the end. Noir de Noir was surprisingly sweet in its later resonance, almost like chocolate. I am dying to try the others. I will definitely need to buy one, and have to whittle it down to my absolute fave. Needless to say, some reviews from this excellent website would help enormously. (none of my friends share my perfume obsession – it's become an addiction really, and it's great to unleash it when surfing this website!)
Better hurry! Was in Harrods last week & the assistant told me that 6 of the range are being discontinued as of now & once stock is sold through there’ll be no more – these included Purple Patchouli, Moss Breches, Velvet Gardenia, Bois Rouges & Neroli Portofino