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Burberry Her ~ quick fragrance review

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The background: Burberry’s first pillar fragrance since the license moved from InterParfums to Coty, Burberry Her aims to evoke the youth, bustle, energy and creativity of London for women who are ‘Londoners at heart’. It also appears to be aimed at increasing Burberry’s share of the lucrative Asian market.

The juice: Burberry Her was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who also did the last Burberry feminine pillar, 2014’s My Burberry. Burberry Her is described as a fruity floral gourmand…

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To rub or not to rub

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This gesture was done when we were extracting very high-concentration perfume, old perfume. Now it’s not really true – now we have sprays, [before] there was no spray, you took the cap off the bottle and applied it [directly]. Now it’s a spray, the dilution is much lighter, so really it doesn’t matter.

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The friction created by rubbing, he continues, “heats up the skin, which produces natural enzymes that change the course of the scent.” Most impacted are the top and middle notes, along with the dry-down, or the last and longest period of your fragrance’s unfolding.

— Top quote from perfumer Nathalie Lorson, in From scenting your clothes to avoiding garlic: 7 things a perfumer wants you to know about fragrance at Xposé. Bottom quote from Francis Kurkdjian, in You're Probably Applying, Storing And Wearing Your Perfume Wrong at Vogue UK.

Everybody can feel at ease

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The scent is “everybody can feel at ease.” It’s a stable point where you’re not bombarded with too much information. If you want to create a successful perfume you have to somehow anchor it into something just to ground it somewhere where people can start to follow you. You can’t be too avant-garde in the perfume business, because the sense of smell relies on one’s own past, and the olfactory memory. If you’re too far away from that starting point, then you don’t get to people. You need to anchor the people to something they might think they know, and then bring to something, to somewhere they don’t know.

— Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, talking about Kenzo World Intense. Read more at Exclusive: A&E Interviews the Man Behind Kenzo World Parfums.

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