Guess will launch Guess Night, a new woody fougère fragrance for men, in October…
Carven Le Parfum ~ fragrance review
The venerable Carven brand has been undergoing a revamp over the past three or four years, and everything appears to be working out quite nicely, thank you:
When it was set up by diminutive tastemaker Carmen de Tomasso in the 1940s, its stock-in- trade was simple, couture for the rich and petite. By the 2000s, like many of its mid-century cohorts, it had made a ton of cash from perfume and somewhat lost its way, remaining a respected but not particularly relevant presence. But in 2012, thanks to the efforts of its new creative director Guillaume Henry, Carven is now, suddenly, one of the most talked-about new labels in the business.1
Perfume, of course, is part of the overall equation, as it frequently is in the world of fashion. Carven has recently relaunched their 1946 classic, Ma Griffe,2 and they’ve added Carven Le Parfum, a new fragrance for women (a cologne for men is due next year) developed under (also new) licensing arrangements with Groupe Jacques Bogart. Of course, things have changed since 1946, and Henry was adamant that the new scent not be “too heavy or complicated to wear” — hardly the hallmarks of Ma Griffe…
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Vitae ~ new fragrance
Maison Francis Kurkdjian will launch Aqua Vitae in August. The new spicy and fresh unisex fragrance was inspired by a trip to Formentera…
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male ~ fragrance review
As the world warms up, an uncomfortable-looking, badly proportioned and PhotoShopped piece of sun-broiled beefcake (tattooed of course) contorts himself on a sheet of melting ice, using a threatened species’ hide as a cushion; welcome to the world of Le Beau Mâle*, Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest men’s fragrance. I would describe this “world” as ugly, dumb…not sexy. If you have about 20 minutes of your life to spare (waste), watch the annoying, disjointed, and, I assume, unintentionally, funny Le Beau Mâle promotional videos — talk about much ado about nothing! The Francis Kurkdjian interview is especially weird; he compares Le Beau Mâle to the comic book series Largo Winch; Lady Chatterley’s Lover; You Can Leave Your Hat On (the Joe Cocker song from 9½ Weeks); and A Streetcar Named Desire (Marlon Brando version). Succinctly put, my reaction to all this, the print ads, the videos, and the perfume, was: “WTF!”
Le Beau Mâle is billed as a fresher take (a mix of “hot” and “cold” notes) on original Le Mâle…
Ted Lapidus White Soul Gold & Diamonds ~ new perfume
Ted Lapidus has launched White Soul Gold & Diamonds, a new flanker to 2010’s White Soul…