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Browsing by tag: citrus

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Sharkskin ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 12 July 2019 1 Comment

Independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has just released Sharkskin, the seventh fragrance in her limited edition Heirloom Series.1 This one is timed for summer: it’s “tailor-made to get you through the steamiest days of the year…a wonderful balance of sparkling lightness, luxurious depth, and ease. In my perfect fantasy, this is the scent that both Frank Sinatra AND Grace Kelly are wearing to be cool as a cucumber, the picture of elegance, and ever so fresh in the heat of the NYC summer, circa 1957.”

This scent’s name refers to the fabric called sharkskin, a lightweight wool material that’s tightly woven with alternating colors of thread for a resulting smoothness and subtle, two-toned sheen. The members of the Rat Pack were often photographed wearing sharp-cut sharkskin suits in the 1950s and 1960s, hence the reference above! — but the material is still used in suiting for both genders…

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Heretic Parfums Dirty Lemon & Dirty Mango ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 26 June 2019 15 Comments

My “Dirty” series is about taking classic, beautiful ingredients and putting a new spin on them – letting their hair down, smudging their lipstick and exploring new territory. I wanted to build a fragrance around the spontaneous and energetic aspects of lemons but wanted to bring something new and even a little naughty to lemons’ squeaky clean nature. — Douglas Little, Heretic Parfums.

Dirty Lemon (listed notes include lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, juniper, lime, sandalwood, pink and black pepper, ylang-ylang and patchouli)

Dirty Lemon opens with the aromas of bergamot oil and sliced lemons (heavily peppered), but its head notes are more dense than sprightly or fizzy…

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Green mandarin & cardamom

Posted by Robin on 25 May 2019 Leave a Comment

Two spots from Firmenich Naturals. The first is on green mandarin from Brazil (with perfumer Amandine Clerc Marie), followed by (below the jump) cardamom from Guatemala (with perfumer Frank Voelkl).

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Atelier Cologne Pacific Lime ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 28 February 2019 27 Comments

Years ago, when I reviewed the Cire Trudon limited edition candle, Merida Arquiste, I lamented the fact that I couldn’t think of a good guava-centric perfume “out there” that could match Merida’s fruit note. Now, Atelier Cologne has launched Pacific Lime.* Though (I assume) no guava was harmed in Pacific Lime’s manufacture, the fragrance’s notes conjure the aroma of a pink guava at perfect ripeness…

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Mandarin Smackdown: Chanel Paris-Deauville vs Prada Infusion Mandarine

Posted by Kevin on 16 January 2019 18 Comments

As I strolled in downtown Seattle at Christmastime, the cold, moist air was scented with pungent whiffs of “fragrance” — a fragrance I would buy if it came in a bottle. No, I wasn’t smelling snickerdoodles baking in ovens, espresso, chocolate or evergreen trees; all around me floated the scents of thousands of sweet box flowers, horse sweat and…yes…horse merde. A mounted police officer’s horse relieved herself right next to the blossoming plants and created a superb floral musk bomb. (Parfum d’Empire: get on the case!) While relishing this “street accord” I thought to myself: “How many people would enjoy this scent as much as I do?” Maybe you have to come from horse-loving, plant-loving Virginia? Or England? Or just notice the floral notes in horse manure and the fecal facets of certain flowers?

When I smelled this enlivening perfume I was headed to Nordstrom to get a whiff of Paris-Deauville by Chanel — a cologne in the new Les Eaux de Chanel line…

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