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Browsing by tag: chypre

Le Galion L’Ame Perdue ~ fragrance review with an aside on perfume in Paris

Posted by Angela on 20 August 2018 43 Comments

Sure, I’m in Paris, but I wasn’t planning to buy perfume. I have plenty already. Besides, I’d already bought a pair of sandals and some underthings, and my budget was shot. Then I smelled Le Galion L’Ame Perdue, a chypre that would have been right at home on Rita Hayworth’s dressing table. When I discovered I couldn’t buy it in the U.S., I handed over my credit card. This baby was going home with me.

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux developed L’Ame Perdue. Its notes include lemon, Sicilian green mandarin, cardamom, coriander seeds, white pepper, datura, Egyptian jasmine, jasmine sambac imperial absolute, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, red lily, cloves, cinnamon, plum, mirabelle, patchouli, amber, benzoin, balsam of Peru, rosewood, vanilla, honey and oak moss.

L’Ame Perdue is a complex, spicy-fruity chypre with an initial hint of skank and miles of earthy glamour…

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5 Perfumes: Fruity Chypres for Fall

Posted by Angela on 30 October 2017 28 Comments

Peach Preserves

Autumn is the perfect time to wear a chypre perfume. Something in a chypre’s mossy, musty base echoes leaf mold and feels right at home on days with cold mornings and sunny afternoons. Among chypres, fruity chypres are especially nice. The fruit adds sweetness and color — so nice on a rainy day — without going all pumpkin spice.

Here are five fruity chypres to sample:

Guerlain Mitsouko: I’ll kick off the list with the queen of fruity chypres…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Dark Moon ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 29 December 2016 5 Comments

moon

2016 is winding down to its close, and I’ve just tried Dark Moon, this year’s holiday fragrance from indie perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. It’s named for one of the phases of the moon: according to Hurwitz, “The Dark Moon signals a new beginning… This Holiday Season, the New Moon/Dark Moon comes just after the winter solstice and in the northern hemisphere, the darkest day of the year.” So it’s timely, and heaven knows I’ve been eating more than my share of chocolate lately, which makes Dark Moon a perfect pick for my review this week.

Hurwitz describes Dark Moon as a “chocolate chypre” with notes of red wine, dark chocolate, bergamot, spice, jasmine, rose, resins, vanilla, and oak moss. Intrigued? Yes, me too…

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Friday scent of the day 5/13

Posted by Robin on 13 May 2016 381 Comments

Azemmour, Georg Braun

It’s Friday the 13th, but also Chypre Friday! (And surely a good chypre will save you from anything.) Our community project for today: wear a chypre fragrance of any sort — classic or modern or post-modern. (And a quick reminder: don’t forget our yearly Haiku challenge is tomorrow!)

What fragrance did you pick? As always, do chime in with your scent of the day even if you’re not participating in the community project.

I’m wearing Parfum d’Empire Azemour Les Orangers. Tea at the moment is a meh Assam — I am still working on clearing out tea samples.

Reminder: on 5/20 we’re doing The Art of the Understatement…

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L de Lubin, vintage and new ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 7 March 2016 22 Comments

L de Lubin

I never thought much one way or another about the designer Halston, until I started researching him for a mystery novel. I’d remembered Halston’s dresses as tubes hanging on 28AA women with glossy lipstick who partied at Studio 54 in the late 1970s. Then I learned that those simple tubes were masterpieces of Halston’s “spiral cut,” in which he took an extra wide length of fabric — so wide he first used upholstery fabric, then commissioned his own fabric runs in Italy — and fashioned them meticulously to hang on the bias with a long, spiral seam. In the late 1960s, he even worked with legendary couturier Charles James and hung his fabric diagonally to relax before cutting it, just as Vionnet did.

Halston’s monastic simplicity? Genius and craft are what made those dresses look so effortless. The best light chypres of the 1970s stir the same magic for me…

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