Oriza L. Legrand's latest perfume has a strange name — Cuir de L'Aigle Russe.1 No, this is not the scent of a 'Russian' eagle's tanned skin...I assume we're in "Royal Leather" territory. Oriza L. Legrand is one of my favorite new fragrance houses of the last several years. So many of their perfumes are on my to-buy list that I'm paralyzed with indecision and will probably buy none. After my first sniff of it, Cuir de L'Aigle Russe also went on this weird active-but-inactive to-buy list.
Cuir de L'Aigle Russe begins with a dry lemon-bergamot accord; I detect fuzzy geranium leaf with a hint of rose, warm immortelle snuggling with cardamom and a burst of non-species-specific floral indoles. There's a lovely styrax note in Cuir de L'Aigle Russe's heart: imagine vanilla-bean incense burning in the room. An old-style, smooth-as-satin leather aroma is the lead-in to the perfume's base. This leather is tame (and clean) enough for babes and makes me imagine perfumed-leather "dust." Many of Cuir de L'Aigle Russe's notes are talc-y-silky, not full-on powder-particles forming white scented clouds in the air. But: if you think Molinard Habanita is too powdery, you'll probably think Cuir de L'Aigle Russe is, too.
Cuir de L'Aigle Russe's base notes are amber-y, with patchouli-labdanum, a touch of woody vetiver and faint Tonkin-ish, opoponax-tinged musk; it's in the base the second flower note appears — a mix of notes creating the scent of carnations-pinks. (This phase of Cuir de L'Aigle Russe reminds me of the "beach" phase of Jean Patou Chaldée.)
I love talc-y and powdery perfumes, and I've always found powdery leather perfumes delightful; and wearing them always makes me feel young...and happy. Even if you're leather and/or powder phobic, give this sweet perfume a try.
Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L'Aigle Russe Eau de Parfum is unisex and has good lasting power ($165 for 100 ml). For buying information, see Oriza L. Legrand under Perfume Houses.
1. Listed notes of bergamot, coriander, rose, lavender, davana, cade, geranium, immortelle, cardamom, styrax, patchouli, labdanum, incense, musk, tonka bean, sandalwood, amber, vetiver.