• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 22 October 2015 32 Comments

Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald

Some time ago, the indie brand Strange Invisible Perfumes had a Lady Day fragrance.1 It was, as you'd expect, a gardenia (Billie Holiday, aka Lady Day, was known for wearing gardenias in her hair onstage2), and it was, as you'd perhaps also expect, big, as in a BWF (big white floral). It wasn't dark, really, or melancholy, just big and lush, and it also wasn't the oddball take on Lady Day that you find in Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire, which Kevin found more Gaga than Holiday.3

Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile takes an entirely different approach, and if I can't really connect the smell with what I know of Billie Holiday, that's neither here nor there I suppose, and we're always happy to have an excuse to post another image: she is shown here with The First Lady of Song, Ella Fitzgerald (who for mysterious reasons never seems to get a perfume named after her).

Lady Day starts green. It's momentarily soft, then the green expands and gets spicy and sharp, and this big, almost-bitter spiky green is really the only big part of the proceedings; it calms after a bit, and then the whole thing is dewy soft from there on in. The gardenia comes on slowly and never raises its voice above a whisper, nor does it entirely emerge from the dewy green haze left over from the opening. It is not heady; there are no undertones of decay or mushrooms — it smells like gardenia, yes, but not like the fresh cut flower and not like most gardenia perfumes.4 The amber-y woody base is likewise mild and pale, and it's in Extrait, so it stays relatively close to the skin.

Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day

Verdict: a lovely green floral that I'd recommend to any fan of green florals, and would recommend to fans of gardenia with the proviso that it is not your usual big heady gardenia. Another way to put it: I think you'd have to like galbanum to enjoy Lady Day, but I don't think you'd necessarily have to love gardenia. I would love to have a small bottle, so I'm adding it to my buy list, where it will languish in good company since I never buy anything.5

Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day is in the brand's Exclusive collection. It is available in 7 (€22), 15 ($56) or 30 ml ($165) Parfum. For buying information, see the listing for Maria Candida Gentile under Perfume Houses.

1. At some point, I understood you could still buy Lady Day from the Strange Invisible Perfumes boutique in California; I've no idea if that is true now.

2. "Rumour has it that Holiday burned her hair with curling tongs one evening, just before she was due to take the stage. One of her fellow performers remembered that a neighbouring venue sold flowers at the cloakroom, so she nipped off and came back brandishing a bunch of the white blooms, which Holiday then pinned in her hair. Holiday liked her emergency hair cover-up so much that from then on, she would be rarely seen on-stage sans gardenia." (via Beauty Flashback: Billie Holiday's flower-filled hair at The Telegraph.

3. I used the term 'oddball', but in all truth I hardly remember Une Voix Noire so I'm taking Kevin's word for it. All I remember is that I disliked it enough that I never got around to trying it a second time.

4. I should point out that Lady Day reportedly uses a natural gardenia absolute, whereas most gardenia notes in perfume are accords, gardenia absolute being somewhat rare and expensive.

5. Knock on wood.

Possibly of interest

Amouage Figment Woman ~ fragrance review
Pacifica Tahitian Gardenia ~ fragrance review
Hermes Jour d’Hermes Gardenia ~ perfume review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: gardenia, maria candida gentile

Advertisement


32 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. C.H. says:
    22 October 2015 at 3:12 pm

    You really are tempting fate with these declarations of being done with buying! But then, I would not mind one whit if the perfume gods decided they had to make something so fantastic you had no choice but to reverse yourself :)

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      22 October 2015 at 3:17 pm

      Ha – that’s true, but mostly I’m trying to force myself to make it through 2015!! I’m almost there, after all, seems silly to buy something now. January is not that far off :-)

      Log in to Reply
      • Robin says:
        22 October 2015 at 3:18 pm

        Also, though, it’s paralyzing to go so long. I do think I *could* buy something in January, but what?? It would be hard to pick that one single thing that is worth breaking a 1 year run.

        Log in to Reply
        • Rappleyea says:
          22 October 2015 at 5:34 pm

          Nothing kills a lemming faster (or inspiration) than the self-imposed perfume police saying, “Okay, here’s the money. You may now go buy a bottle of perfume.”

          Log in to Reply
          • Robin says:
            22 October 2015 at 5:53 pm

            Yeah, why is that??

          • Rappleyea says:
            22 October 2015 at 5:59 pm

            It’s no longer “forbidden fruit”. :-)

          • Robin says:
            22 October 2015 at 7:41 pm

            Ugh, you’re probably right.

  2. galbanumgal says:
    22 October 2015 at 3:52 pm

    Just read your review of the SIP scent, and that’s the type of Lady Day I’d want: gardenia intensive. I do like galbanum, but would rather have a galbanum-tinged gardenia than the reverse. I couldn’t bear Une Voix Noire–the booze/berry/tobacco combo nearly suffocated me.
    Props to this brand for offering an array of smaller bottle options!

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      22 October 2015 at 3:54 pm

      The SIP was really expensive though, which is why I never bought it. This one – it is better to my mind, since I also love “gardenia intensive”, to approach as a green floral than as something that will scratch that particular itch.

      Log in to Reply
    • Gi says:
      22 October 2015 at 6:24 pm

      I kinda want to buy now just because they offer a 7 ml option! This should be rewarded.
      Plus, I love galbanum.

      Log in to Reply
      • Robin says:
        22 October 2015 at 7:42 pm

        Yeah. Most unfortunately I don’t think that gets distributed (someone correct me if I’m wrong!) so you’ll have to buy direct from MCG.

        Log in to Reply
        • Petunia says:
          22 October 2015 at 8:47 pm

          I bought a 15 ml Sideris at Twisted Lily. Not sure if they offer more of this line.

          Log in to Reply
          • Robin says:
            23 October 2015 at 9:54 am

            Yes — the 15 ml come here, but I think not the 7. Also think the 7 ml are only done in the Exclusive collection, but not sure.

  3. mals86 says:
    22 October 2015 at 5:16 pm

    Couldn’t stand Une Voix Noire – wilting gardenia dragged through some caramel syrup and leftover tacos and then dumped into a full ashtray? No, thanks, Oncle Serge. Nassssty.

    This sounds really lovely. You know I dig me some spiky-bitter green stuff. (Well, not Bandit. But floral bitter spiky green, that I love.) And soft gardenia, yes. D*** it, must add to the test list.

    Log in to Reply
    • mals86 says:
      22 October 2015 at 5:17 pm

      And Ella *definitely* needs a perfume named after her. But then, she needed and deserved a good moniker too.

      Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      22 October 2015 at 6:02 pm

      LOL at leftover tacos!! I really don’t remember it that well, just that I didn’t like it and thought Kevin was right.

      And YES. No aspersions whatsoever on Maria Candida Gentile, but in general I do think people like to say they’re inspired by Billie Holiday because hey, what a tragedy. Makes for a good story. Ella had plenty of heartbreak but in a less spectacular fashion, and lived to a nice old age. Insane that for that reason she’s now less well known than Billie Holiday. (ok, stepping down from my soapbox)

      Log in to Reply
  4. Rappleyea says:
    22 October 2015 at 5:32 pm

    Love the review, and interestingly enough, I finally broke down recently and ordered some MCG samples so I’ve been sampling the line. They are interesting, and seem well-done, but so far nothing has made me whip out the credit card.

    And now I *really* want an Ella Fitzgerald perfume! If ever a celeb deserved one, and a good one, it is Ella! What notes do you, Robin, and/or NST readers envision for her?

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      22 October 2015 at 6:10 pm

      Hey, did you get Barry Lyndon? That’s the one I still have on my list to get my hands on because so many people said it was great.

      Would love to know what perfume Ella wore. I picture her in something expansive and happy like Joy, because she always sounds like she’s just plain happy to be singing, even when she’s doing a sad song. And I would be too, if I had that voice. So, a full on floral. What would you pick?

      Log in to Reply
      • Rappleyea says:
        22 October 2015 at 6:35 pm

        I’ve just spent the last 1/2 hour on that celebrity scent site, which was a blast, but alas no Ella. Joy would be perfect, but I could also see something like either Vol de Nuit or L’Heure Bleue, both floral but with just a touch of noir.

        No, haven’t tried the Barry Lyndon, now of course I’ll have to order it. So far Cinabre (rose went very soapy – I was disappointed as otherwise I really liked it), Exultat (need to try again), Finisterre (not for me), and still have Noir Tropical (is that the name?) to try.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          22 October 2015 at 7:42 pm

          My favorites so far are Sideris & Hanbury. Gentile is quite nice too, a men’s, I need to spend more time with it.

          Log in to Reply
  5. nozknoz says:
    22 October 2015 at 7:22 pm

    I love this line for creating some wonderful perfumes with a good portion of natural ingredients that thrill my nose and for offering small bottles. Plus I like those those labels! (You can’t tell from the photo, of course, but they are a heavy, matte paper embossed in gold.) I will definitely try to sample Lady Day.

    One odd thing: when I first got Exultat and Sideris, I loved Exultat and was wasn’t sure about Sideris. Now I like Sideris much better. I wonder if the blend might have matured in the bottle. I ordered directly from MCG when I first read the review of Exultat on Grain de Musc, before the line was available here, so it might have been very fresh. Or maybe it was just the usual vagaries of weather, perception, etc. They both have beautiful incense and resins.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      22 October 2015 at 7:45 pm

      Oh, nice to hear the bottles are lovely in person. And agree, so nice to see such a friendly range of sizes.

      And how interesting — I liked Sideris better too so maybe my sample of Exultat was likewise not “fresh”.

      Log in to Reply
      • nozknoz says:
        22 October 2015 at 11:17 pm

        The bottles themselves are simple but nice enough, the labels are attractively old-fashioned, and the hues of the colored labels are great. There is a sense of the perfumer’s Italian personality, as there is with Hilde Soliani. One more thing I appreciate about this line.

        Log in to Reply
  6. Coumarin says:
    23 October 2015 at 1:58 am

    Sounds lovely. I was wearing some vintage Miss Dior and was really sad that galbanum is sort of a rarity these days. Maybe we should have a Galbanum Poll to see what modern ones we/I can try!

    Log in to Reply
    • annemarie says:
      23 October 2015 at 4:37 am

      Yes! Galbanum is one of my favourite notes, Chanel No 19 and Miss Dior always being front and centre for me. But I don’t associate it with modern perfumery at all.

      Log in to Reply
    • mals86 says:
      23 October 2015 at 9:15 am

      It is rare these days, what a shame. Miller Harris Fleur de Matin and the updated Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime are the only relatively recent fragrances I can think of that use it.

      Log in to Reply
      • mals86 says:
        23 October 2015 at 9:26 am

        Just went over to Fragrantica to see if there was anything galbanummy that I might have missed… Adding Lush Flower Market, Vero Mito, A Scent by Issey Miyake, PG Papyrus de Ciane, and Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela. (There is also purportedly some galbanum in Infusion d’Iris, but I don’t really smell it in there.)

        Log in to Reply
      • Robin says:
        23 October 2015 at 9:56 am

        Gobin Daude Sous Le Buis! But discontinued so I guess hardly counts.

        Log in to Reply
        • galbanumgal says:
          23 October 2015 at 10:43 am

          Chanel’s no 19 Poudre opens with a lovely albeit short-lived hit of galbanum.

          Log in to Reply
        • nozknoz says:
          23 October 2015 at 5:39 pm

          Now I’m curious about Sacre du Printemps by Ys-Uzac (2014) – galbanum, black currant, vetiver, guaiac wood, and angelica are listed notes. I like Pohadka very much.

          Log in to Reply
          • nozknoz says:
            23 October 2015 at 6:19 pm

            Or maybe not – it’s 380 euros on the Ys Uzac website.

          • Robin says:
            24 October 2015 at 5:00 pm

            Ouch.

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

February 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

From NST at Twitter

  • "Cartier Perfumer Mathilde Laurent Shares Her French Beauty Essentials" (vanity fair, hat tip to kevin!) https://t.co/qsMjKpmme3, 8 hours ago
  • "What's that smell? New 'Corpse Flower' in full bloom at Nashville Zoo" (fox 17) https://t.co/QlPVyWVOq1, 10 hours ago
  • Updated info on Costume National Supergloss https://t.co/fDSO0qQHen, 10 hours ago
  • I am a day late but you can still enter: "Kraft Singles is giving away grilled cheese-scented incense to celebrate… https://t.co/8T64EZUJmy,
  • @Counselor_Gal44 I don't always, but I really like these bottles so I hope I like at least one of this set!,

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

24 April ~ swapmeet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2021 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.