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Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 19 October 2015 21 Comments

Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré brand background image

Iris must be the Meryl Streep of fragrance notes. In Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, she plays a 17th century lady at her dressing table. In Le Labo Iris 39, she’s the earthy bohemian mistress with an intellectual bent. In Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, she’s the wild child with aristocratic roots and a pagan godmother.

In Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré, iris might be a medieval monk who works in the garden during the day and faithfully attends incense-laden vespers, but who enjoys the comfort of his pipe and armchair in the wood-paneled library. Perfumer Julien Rasquinet developed Iris Cendré. It’s a unisex floral oriental, and its notes include bergamot, tangerine, spices, violet, iris, cistus, tobacco and amber.

In two words, Iris Cendré might be “fireplace iris.” Iris Cendré kicks off with a citrus hit that quickly gives way to burning wood, pepper, crushed stems and dirty iris. The fragrance is already formed from its first sniff, unlike some perfumes that need some breaking in to release their true selves.

As the perfume wears, its iris crawls from beneath the woodsmoke in ginger-tinged rootiness, shaking the loam from its arms. Iris Cendré burns down to a rooty-tobacco growl that never goes overly sweet. It lasts about four hours on my skin.

I love iris in all its roles. I love it as a dupe for rosy-violet when it plays face-powder seductive. I love it when it’s fruity and welcoming and almost demands a shot of vodka, an umbrella and a neon pedicure. I love it as a smart layer to an already complex perfume, as in Chanel Cuir de Russie. But I think I love it most in its earthy, wild role, as it is in Iris Cendré. My bottle of Iris 39 is drained, and I’ve been seesawing between replacing it with another Iris 39 or going for Iris Silver Mist. I just might do Iris Cendré instead.

Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré

Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré is $187 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum, and is available in the United States at Luckyscent, in France at Nose, or in Germany at Essenza Nobile.

Possibly of interest

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite ~ fragrance review
Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite ~ new fragrance
Top 10 Fall Fragrances 2016

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: iris, julien rasquinet, naomi goodsir

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21 Comments

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  1. littlecooling says:
    19 October 2015 at 2:21 pm

    It truly sounds like a beautiful fragrance and I love the bottle design :)

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    • Angela says:
      19 October 2015 at 3:59 pm

      I like the bottle design, too! It’s simple and elegant without being stuffy.

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      • littlecooling says:
        19 October 2015 at 6:50 pm

        Yes, indeed :) I would love to see it in real life, but sadly we don’t have the fragrances here in Denmark :(

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        • Angela says:
          19 October 2015 at 7:47 pm

          It doesn’t seem to have very wide distribution. I only know one place in the U.S. that has it.

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          • littlecooling says:
            20 October 2015 at 5:47 am

            Yes, I saw them on LuckyScent, but I think it might be a bit expensive to order a sample :/

        • RobWales says:
          20 October 2015 at 5:27 pm

          littlecooling ~ “First in Fragrance” in Germany has this in stock and also provide a sample service.

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          • Angela says:
            20 October 2015 at 8:25 pm

            Thanks for the information–very helpful.

  2. Annikky says:
    19 October 2015 at 3:12 pm

    Thank you for reviewing Iris Cendre – I’ve been waiting for the NST take! Inspired by you, I’ve just put some IC on from my sample and I love it. The first time I wore it, I didn’t find it that smoky, but now it’s definitely there with some wood and… leather, almost? Be it as it may, I’ve enjoyed it every time I’ve worn it and probably have to get a bottle. This would be excellent for winter.

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    • Angela says:
      19 October 2015 at 3:59 pm

      I agree–this would be a good one for winter and definitely for fall. I think it would blend right in with rain and fallen leaves.

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  3. kristinacologne says:
    19 October 2015 at 4:52 pm

    This sounds beautiful – how does it compare to Van Cleef’s Bois d’Iris? The price is rather challenging though…

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    • Angela says:
      19 October 2015 at 5:07 pm

      I’d say it’s earthier and less refined and smokier, for sure. As for the price, I’m getting so jaded and fat price tags that I barely flinched.

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  4. hajusuuri says:
    19 October 2015 at 6:40 pm

    Wowzer – this is high praise. I have a split portion coming my way if I get organized enough to work through a swap / split arrangement with an NSTer! I think we’re both giddy with excitement over all these cooler weather perfumes!

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    • Angela says:
      19 October 2015 at 7:47 pm

      I hope you like it! I hope I’m not overselling it. Let me know what you think!

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  5. apsara says:
    19 October 2015 at 6:41 pm

    Thanks for the review, Angela.
    I bought both Bois d’asense and Cuir Velours without testing and they did not disappoint.. Both are in heavy rotation at my house and this may need to join in!

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    • Angela says:
      19 October 2015 at 7:48 pm

      I haven’t tried anything else from the line, but I’m curious!

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  6. helenviolette says:
    19 October 2015 at 11:44 pm

    I really want to sniff this! I am the proud new owner of a bottle of Iris Silver Mist- thanks to a co-worker who recently went to Paris and was kind enough to find it for me. It is such a lovely scent. (So I can’t really justify ordering a sample of this right now!)

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    • Angela says:
      20 October 2015 at 1:04 am

      Lucky you! Enjoy a spritz of Iris Silver Mist for me!

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  7. rickbr says:
    20 October 2015 at 6:54 am

    Now i know why i love iris – it’s the Meryl streep of fragrance notes! I love dear Meryl, my favorite actress of all time.

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    • Angela says:
      20 October 2015 at 10:20 am

      She’s an amazon actress! I’ll see anything she’s in.

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  8. nozknoz says:
    20 October 2015 at 9:43 pm

    I did not like the two other Naomi Goodsir perfumes that I tried, but I’m still curious about this one. Although perhaps I am being misled by my love of Jacomo Eau Cendrée (not an iris perfume). I guess I should try the Le Labo, as well. And I totally agree with your comparison to Meryl Streep!

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    • Angela says:
      20 October 2015 at 9:49 pm

      I haven’t tried the others, but I do love the Le Labo iris!

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