Iris must be the Meryl Streep of fragrance notes. In Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, she plays a 17th century lady at her dressing table. In Le Labo Iris 39, she’s the earthy bohemian mistress with an intellectual bent. In Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, she’s the wild child with aristocratic roots and a pagan godmother.
In Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré, iris might be a medieval monk who works in the garden during the day and faithfully attends incense-laden vespers, but who enjoys the comfort of his pipe and armchair in the wood-paneled library. Perfumer Julien Rasquinet developed Iris Cendré. It’s a unisex floral oriental, and its notes include bergamot, tangerine, spices, violet, iris, cistus, tobacco and amber.
In two words, Iris Cendré might be “fireplace iris.” Iris Cendré kicks off with a citrus hit that quickly gives way to burning wood, pepper, crushed stems and dirty iris. The fragrance is already formed from its first sniff, unlike some perfumes that need some breaking in to release their true selves.
As the perfume wears, its iris crawls from beneath the woodsmoke in ginger-tinged rootiness, shaking the loam from its arms. Iris Cendré burns down to a rooty-tobacco growl that never goes overly sweet. It lasts about four hours on my skin.
I love iris in all its roles. I love it as a dupe for rosy-violet when it plays face-powder seductive. I love it when it’s fruity and welcoming and almost demands a shot of vodka, an umbrella and a neon pedicure. I love it as a smart layer to an already complex perfume, as in Chanel Cuir de Russie. But I think I love it most in its earthy, wild role, as it is in Iris Cendré. My bottle of Iris 39 is drained, and I’ve been seesawing between replacing it with another Iris 39 or going for Iris Silver Mist. I just might do Iris Cendré instead.
Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré is $187 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum, and is available in the United States at Luckyscent, in France at Nose, or in Germany at Essenza Nobile.
It truly sounds like a beautiful fragrance and I love the bottle design 🙂
I like the bottle design, too! It’s simple and elegant without being stuffy.
Yes, indeed 🙂 I would love to see it in real life, but sadly we don’t have the fragrances here in Denmark 🙁
It doesn’t seem to have very wide distribution. I only know one place in the U.S. that has it.
Yes, I saw them on LuckyScent, but I think it might be a bit expensive to order a sample :/
littlecooling ~ “First in Fragrance” in Germany has this in stock and also provide a sample service.
Thanks for the information–very helpful.
Thank you for reviewing Iris Cendre – I’ve been waiting for the NST take! Inspired by you, I’ve just put some IC on from my sample and I love it. The first time I wore it, I didn’t find it that smoky, but now it’s definitely there with some wood and… leather, almost? Be it as it may, I’ve enjoyed it every time I’ve worn it and probably have to get a bottle. This would be excellent for winter.
I agree–this would be a good one for winter and definitely for fall. I think it would blend right in with rain and fallen leaves.
This sounds beautiful – how does it compare to Van Cleef’s Bois d’Iris? The price is rather challenging though…
I’d say it’s earthier and less refined and smokier, for sure. As for the price, I’m getting so jaded and fat price tags that I barely flinched.
Wowzer – this is high praise. I have a split portion coming my way if I get organized enough to work through a swap / split arrangement with an NSTer! I think we’re both giddy with excitement over all these cooler weather perfumes!
I hope you like it! I hope I’m not overselling it. Let me know what you think!
Thanks for the review, Angela.
I bought both Bois d’asense and Cuir Velours without testing and they did not disappoint.. Both are in heavy rotation at my house and this may need to join in!
I haven’t tried anything else from the line, but I’m curious!
I really want to sniff this! I am the proud new owner of a bottle of Iris Silver Mist- thanks to a co-worker who recently went to Paris and was kind enough to find it for me. It is such a lovely scent. (So I can’t really justify ordering a sample of this right now!)
Lucky you! Enjoy a spritz of Iris Silver Mist for me!
Now i know why i love iris – it’s the Meryl streep of fragrance notes! I love dear Meryl, my favorite actress of all time.
She’s an amazon actress! I’ll see anything she’s in.
I did not like the two other Naomi Goodsir perfumes that I tried, but I’m still curious about this one. Although perhaps I am being misled by my love of Jacomo Eau Cendrée (not an iris perfume). I guess I should try the Le Labo, as well. And I totally agree with your comparison to Meryl Streep!
I haven’t tried the others, but I do love the Le Labo iris!