For rosewood lovers like myself, it's good to know Palissandre d'Or does not aim for any realistic representation of rosewood, and there's no rosewood in the formula; banish that idea from your mind or you may create disappointment for yourself before giving the perfume a chance. Palissandre d'Or aims to create an "imaginary wood."
For once, press materials2 speak The Truth: "Abstract yet intensely evocative, Palissandre d’Or expresses the quintessence of Alberto Morillas’ style, defined by the master in three words: 'Fluidity, transparency and power.'”
Palissandre d'Or delivers a spicy pink pepper-and-cinnamon punch to start — I also notice a frankincense-like note with a sharp vanillic edge (there's a background smokiness present throughout this perfume, too). Quickly, Palissandre d'Or segues to a mellow, sweet wood fragrance: part creamy sandalwood, part damp/lush cedar. The woods present subtle, almost fruity, rose notes, and bolder leather and patchouli aromas. Palissandre d'Or ends with an amber-y accord: beautiful, smoke-hugged woods, patchouli and sheer leather: all on the sweet side.
Returning to Morillas' words regarding his style (fluidity, transparency, power), Palissandre d'Or is a smooth customer, moving seamlessly from one note or accord to the next. Though the fragrance feels substantial upon application, it's not heavy at all; it feels lightweight on skin, but billows around me. Palissandre d'Or has great sillage and impact. I think it could be worn in any season, but would be perfect for cooler weather.
The "mood" of Palissandre d'Or is not carefree or, for me, happy; it's thoughtful, wistful. As I wore it, I imagined a warm, dark room in winter, and a man, face calm, reading something serious, perhaps a book of poems by Marina Tsvetaeva, while listening to...Frederico Mompou. (Hey, your Palissandre d'Or mood may vary!)
Though in no sense a duplicate, Palissandre d'Or reminded me immediately of several perfumes: Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge, Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather; there's also a tantalizing moment or two of (discontinued) Tom Ford Private Blend Purple Patchouli in Palissandre d'Or (but Tom Ford...you still need to reissue Purple Patchouli).
Aedes de Venustas Palissandre d’Or will be available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum, $245, or in a purse spray with three 10 ml refills, $195 (purse spray refills are $110).
Disclaimer: Aedes is a long-time advertiser at Now Smell This. We don't take direct advertising from perfume brands because we'd rather not be in the position of reviewing products made by our advertisers. Since some retailers have started introducing their own branded perfumes, and since we also don't want to ignore great fragrances, which are after all few and far between — here we are! If we didn't think
Iris Nazarena Oeillet Bengale Copal Azur Palissandre d'Or was wonderful, we probably wouldn't review it; in that sense, you can say this isn't a totally objective review (if such a thing exists).
1. Listed fragrance notes: ambrette, pink pepper, coriander, nutmeg, cinnamon, sandalwood, copahu balm, patchouli extract, Virginian cedar, Chinese cedar, Alaskan cedar, Ambrox.
2. More complete press quotes can be found in the fragrance announcement.