Atelier Cologne's new(ish) Pomélo Paradis is the brand's latest citrus fragrance, and reportedly the last scent in what is now called the 'Collection Originale'. Like its elder siblings Grand Néroli and Orange Sanguine, it's meant to provide the "magical freshness of cologne coupled with the lasting power of eau de parfum". Not a bad calling card, but I admit I am a bit less taken with the concept as time goes on.
I bought small bottles of Grand Néroli and Orange Sanguine shortly after they launched, but ended up giving them both away over the past year. Both are well-made, respectable renditions of the materials in question, but I almost never reached for them, and when I did, my usual tendency was to layer them with something else. Despite the decent lasting power, most of the fun was concentrated in the top notes, and I found that I owned other, similar citrus perfumes that were far more enjoyable to wear.
The top notes of Pomélo Paradis are great fun if you're a grapefruit fan (ok, it's supposedly pomelo, but I defy anybody to tell the difference, blindfolded, as a perfume note). It's a juicy mix of orange, pink pomelo and blackcurrant, with sparkle and energy to spare. It's got a lovely green bite to it, almost like lime peel, and a touch of an aromatic edge. The orange blossom and a faint whisper of mint come through in the early stages, when it's still got some verve going on (the notes: mandarin, blackcurrant buds, orange blossom, rose essence, mint, amber, vetiver and iris). After that — at about, say, the 30 or 40 minute mark — for me, it's all downhill. Everything fades, including the orange blossom, and what's left in the dry down is a pale, thin, amber-y musk, rather flat. It does last, mind you, but the thrill is gone.
Verdict: As soon as I smelled Pomélo Paradis on paper, I was tempted to add the small bottle to my collection. I'm glad I took a sample home and lived with it first. To my mind, Atelier's Mistral Patchouli is a better grapefruit (and a better citrus fragrance in general); Pomélo Paradis is a contender for Erin's Great Moments in Top Notes.
As near as I can tell, almost everyone liked Pomélo Paradis better than I did. The Candy Perfume Boy reviewed it today, and he has a coupon code for Atelier in case you're planning on doing some shopping.
Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis was developed by perfumer Ralf Schwieger (who also did Orange Sanguine, and the newer Cédrat Enivrant, among others). It is available in 30 ($70), 100 ($110) and 200 ($180) ml Cologne Absolue.
I love Orange Sanguine, so I would probably like this as well. I like that fresh, clean smell and grapefruit is one of my favorite scents. I think this is worth a sniff.
You might love this then — do try it!
Robin, after reading your review I decided to swing by sephora on my way home to try this out. It does smell really good on paper. They gave me a sample so I’ll see how I like the dry down. I also got samples of Cedrat Envirant and Dior Eau Sausage.
I’m sad to hear you fell out of love with Grand Neroli. In my mind, it’s probably their best offering alongside Mistral Patchouli. It has such a pleasant, beachy, sun warmed skin scent during the dry down. I just ordered a 30 ml bottle so hopefully I continue to love it.
*sauvage :0
Hee, hee
Eau Sausage would be an interesting gourmand!
Yep, gave me a giggle! One point for stupid spellcheck!
I adore neroli, and don’t misunderstand — I think Atelier’s is good. Just don’t think it’s great, although again, like the opening better than the dry down.
The Mistral Patchouli works better for me from start to finish, also love their Sous Le Toit, and like a few others. But in general I mostly like but don’t love the brand.
Eau Sausage! Love that, best typo this week.
No misunderstanding at all. We like what we like. I know what you mean about the dry down though. Orange Sanguine’s dry down feels tacked on to me. It feels like it’s there just for the sake of saying that these last a long time which really isn’t the point of cologne to begin with.
I’m curious what your favorite Nerolis are. I really want to try Cologne Sologne from PdN.
Some discussion of neroli here:
https://nstperfume.com/2013/09/10/parfums-de-nicolai-eau-soleil-yves-rocher-neroli-fragrance-reviews/
I am also a big fan of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau Pour Le Jeune Homme, which I think I like better than everyone else, and then there’s Thierry Mugler Cologne. Many people adore TF Neroli Portofino, but I don’t.
Thanks.
Thanks for reviewing this, Robin. I wanted to like Orange Sanguine, but the woods in the base smell very artificial to me
I don’t like black currant in food/beverages or on my skin, but I will grab a sample of Pomelo Paradis if it makes it to Sephora or Nordstrom.
Going to be surprised if you like it if you don’t like blackcurrant, but you never know! It’s already at Sephora in the US (saw it there myself).
Gosh, I completely missed that it had back currant. Now I’m scared. I still haven’t recovered from the horrors of Bois 1920 Agrumi Amari di Sicilia.
Oh, it isn’t so strong that it will knock you out. Just meant if you particularly dislike the note.
Just ordered the sample set with the coupon and saved ten bucks! Pomelo Paradis however isn’t in the listed samples that it says is included in the set but it says ALL fragrance samples, so crossing my fingers they throw one in since it sounds quite interesting.
Oh, good luck!
I had a small decant of Orange Sanguine which I used up. This is a rare occurence since I tend to be scared of finishing anything! I never got a bottle though because b.f. claimed it smelled like stale orange juice. Atelier is no longer sold locally, but I am coping with the more complex concentre Orange Verte, C&E Tarocco Orange and Body Shop Satsuma body products! One day I’ll just squeeze orange juice into my hair :p
Or get some Guerlain Mandarine Basilic, which is part of why I never reached for Orange Sanguine
Mandarine Basilic is sooooo good!
Yes!
The Aqua Allegorias have also been discontinued here :/ Though I liked MB, it had no lasting power on my skin! I do however have Pamplalune, which lasts better. Not that grapefruit is ever a replacement for ORANGE!
MB is not a powerhouse on me, but it lasts for a reasonable amount of time for a summer citrus. And I am one of those that cannot wear Pamplelune!
I need to spend more time with a couple of these, including Cedrat Envirant. And now that you mentioned Mistral Patchouli as a CITRUS, I need to sample it again (I only had a brief sniff once in a shop). My favorite from Atélier is probably still Trèfle Pur.
This Pomelo sounds nice, and I’m curious to try it for sure, but I do find that so many citruses go flat and musky the way you describe after 30-60 minutes. I’ll stick with your original recommendation for the best grapefruit out there: PdN Balle de Match (or L’Eau de Sport, or whatever it’s now called). I also like the Hermès Pamplemousse Rose, though that doesn’t last long either.
Thanks for the review. It’s so hard to keep up on these launches.
MP has patchouli to be sure, but to me it’s mostly a spiced grapefruit, badly named. Balle de Match is even better, yes, despite the dumb new name, and I wear Pamplemousse Rose much more often than I thought I would!
The Hermes Pamplemousse Rose is VERY nice.
Tried this and I’d decribe it quite the way you did, Robin. The opening is down right delicious, like a fresh squeezed glass of grapefruit and orange juice. Too bad it doesn’t last.
It would actually make me happier if it disappeared faster. Like a cologne, LOL…
I’m anfan of the Atelier Cologne line and will definitely give it a try. I think I have 30 mLs of every cologne so chances are high that I will add this to my collection.
Oh, then would think you will need this one!
I own several of them as well. It is my favorite line by far. It’s clean. So many others smell like chemicals. The Cedrat is my favorite their citrus scents. There are only a handful that I don’t own.