• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Hermes Epice Marine ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 12 November 2013 48 Comments

Hermès Épice Marine, Hermessence series

A new fragrance in the upscale Hermessence range from French house Hermès always makes me happy, even when I don't love the juice — it's pretty rare that one has bored me, although it has happened. The new Épice Marine is number 11 in the series, and it falls squarely in the very-interesting-but-don't-adore-it category, which makes me even happier; as I pointed out in my review of Jour d'Hermès, the brand has taken the lion's share of my perfume spending already. I will be perfectly happy with the 15 ml travel size I have already purchased, and presumably Hermès will continue to prosper even if I don't shell out for the full-sized bottle.

So, Épice Marine. The fragrance is about spices and the ocean: it was developed in a collaborative process between Hermès house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and Breton "pirate chef" Olivier Roellinger, and was inspired by their mutual love of spices and the smell of the sea. Ellena referred to it as a 'Pirate Hermessence',1 which seems fitting enough, although it's a quiet sort of pirate — most of you know already not to go looking for a big statement perfume from Jean-Claude Ellena. I do not know the "official" notes for Épice Marine, but notes mentioned in the many articles2 on the subject include bergamot, roasted cumin, mint, cinnamon, cardamom, Sichuan pepper, algae, whiskey (or maybe rum), smoke, sea breeze, fog, oakmoss, polished wood, and maybe some flowers.

If you are familiar with Ellena's work and particularly the Hermessence series, you can probably already imagine the result: it's a mingling of salty sea notes (heaviest in the top notes, and more salty / iodine-y than "fresh" — this is not your father's aquatic cologne) and plenty of peppery spice, but in the transparent style that is Ellena's hallmark. The opening is lively, with the sea notes mingling with crisp citrus; the dry down is quieter, more contemplative. The later stages could be aptly described as foggy, and make a nice match with the grey-blue color of the packaging. There is a faint hint of smoke, but only faint, and I do not notice any whiskey and/or rum, although possibly that is the only meant to be the origin of the smoky notes.3 Yes, the cumin is noticeable regardless, but I did not find it sweaty à la Cartier Déclaration or Frédéric Malle Cologne Bigarade. The base is soft woods, smelling appropriately aged and weathered by the elements.

Verdict: Like all the Hermessences, Épice Marine manages to be both interesting but perfectly wearable — there is nothing weird or difficult about it as a personal fragrance, and you won't feel like it is wearing you.4 I found it very enjoyable to wear but never completely fell for it, although it may perhaps continue to grow on me, as did Brin de Réglisse — I reach for that one far more often than I ever thought I would.5 As is the case with all the fragrances in the series, this is not the place to go looking for a product to last through your work day, which is another way of saying that the lasting power is about average for a Hermessence.

A quick poll for anybody who managed to read this far: name your favorite fragrance that reminds you of the sea? It doesn't have to be an aquatic.

Hermès Épice Marine is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette, or in a 15 ml bottle sold in mix 'n match groups of 4. There is also an optional leather case, shown above, if you want to pay extra for it.

You can find more reviews of Épice Marine at Bois de Jasmin, Grain de Musc and Sorcery of Scent.

1. Via Behind the scenes of Hermès new fragrance at AMDmode.

2. There is a long article at the French version of Vanity Fair and another at The Telegraph, and you will find plenty more if you Google.

3. The particular whiskey Roellinger apparently recommended to Ellena was the single malt Bruichladdich.

4. Another quote from AMDmode: "...Hermes is different, as they give me the freedom not to be a copy or to follow a trend just to market a product. That doesn’t mean that we produce items or perfumes, that doesn’t work or doesn’t appeal for the market, we always make sure that what we produce is appealing..."

5. And I said the same of Santal Massoïa — maybe it will grow on  me. But no, it never really did. I like it when I wear it, but I don't swoon.

Included in...

5 perfumes: spicy fragrances for summer

Possibly of interest

Hermes H24 ~ new fragrance
Hermes L’Ombre des Merveilles ~ new fragrance

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: aquatic, hermes, hermessences, jean claude ellena, spicy

Advertisement


48 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. Ericgmd says:
    12 November 2013 at 2:14 pm

    Thank you Robin. I have been looking forward to your review of Epice Marine and I am hoping to try it soon.
    The quintessential marine fragrance in my opinion remains Dune by Dior. It must be its name obviously but also the strong influence of the ad campaign from the 90s where sand dunes and oceanic vegetation are featured.
    Not to be confused with an “aquatic ozonic fragrance”.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 2:27 pm

      I thought it would be more widely available by now…I don’t think it’s on the Hermes website yet, and my local store doesn’t even know when it’s coming. Oh well.

      And Dune is perfect!

      Log in to Reply
  2. sayitisntso says:
    12 November 2013 at 2:24 pm

    Haven’t fallen hard for one from this line. They all seem so fleeting. At those prices, I’d want the scent to hang around for longer than a few minutes. Favorite sea-inspired scent? Probably Kenzo’s Pour Homme. Properly briny with salt, seaweed and iodine – and it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. Even the reformulation hasn’t hobbled it although it’s current version doesn’t seem to last as much as the earlier incarnation.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 2:28 pm

      Oh, but there are fragrances that you can’t make long lasting without changing their character…if you made Osmanthe Yunnan so it would last, it would not be so perfectly crisp and transparent. (That’s my argument anyway. Somewhere there was a great quote from Patricia Nicolai about how light fragrances become “squat” when you try to make them so they’ll last.)

      Log in to Reply
      • sayitisntso says:
        12 November 2013 at 4:05 pm

        Ahh, yes…I think this was her reply when asked by Luca Turin why she didn’t offer her wonderful New York in an eau de parfum. But seriously, that one’s a beast…there’s no issue with longevity there.

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          12 November 2013 at 4:33 pm

          Good memory! And I do think it’s true. Bigarade Concentree & Bvlgari’s Thé Vert intense (whatever it’s called) are good examples. Still good fragrances, but very different from the originals.

          Log in to Reply
          • Merlin says:
            12 November 2013 at 5:35 pm

            I would add Voyage d’hermes: though the EDP is more gentle and rounded it does not have the effervescence of the EDT.

            The reason I dont like short-lived scents though is that I want my perfume to sometimes catch me unawares, and also to be a background. Having to respray somehow makes the experience self-conscious, if that makes any sense!

          • Robin says:
            12 November 2013 at 5:46 pm

            I totally understand why people want it to last longer and don’t want to buy expensive fragrances that don’t last…I just don’t think people always get that it does affect the design as well. Osmanthe Yunnan in particular I think would be so different in a stronger form that I probably wouldn’t like it.

      • Rappleyea says:
        13 November 2013 at 2:13 pm

        OY grows and grows and grows on me, and lasts until I get a skin graft!

        Log in to Reply
  3. sophiew says:
    12 November 2013 at 2:43 pm

    I look forward to trying this – it’s been a while since I stopped by the nearest Hermes boutique. I am a big fan of many of the Hermessences too, OY and Ambre Narguile being favorites. I don’t think I’ve tried any proper sea-inspired/scented fragrances, the saltiness of this one sounds interesting.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 3:10 pm

      Ambre Narguile, come to think of it, might be the closest thing to a “big statement” Hermessence, right? And maybe Vetiver Tonka too. Since then seems like they’ve all been transparent.

      Log in to Reply
  4. morgana says:
    12 November 2013 at 3:11 pm

    Robin, it hurts when you call Paprika Brasil “boring” … imo, it is the best Hermessence (even though they are all excellent), and possibly my very favorite fragrance at the moment. I think it needs quite a bit of listening before it can be appreciated …

    Marine Epice sounds interesting, and I definitely want to try it — thanks for another great review (except the comment about Paprika Brasil ;).

    (Some of) my favorite fragrances that remind me of the see are Eau d’Italie (original) by Eau d’Italie and Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 3:25 pm

      Oh, but it should not hurt — everybody has different taste, right? You might find my favorites boring!

      And you’re not alone, anyway, I know quite a few people loved Paprika Brasil.

      Log in to Reply
    • eswift83 says:
      12 November 2013 at 4:11 pm

      Ah yes, Eau d’Italie had a lovely salty seaweed note, didn’t it? I need to locate my sample again!

      Log in to Reply
  5. monkeytoe says:
    12 November 2013 at 4:34 pm

    I like quite a few salty/sea fragrances including my very much missed Diptyque Virgilio which evokes a Mediterranean coastline to my nose, but I want to put in a note for L’Artisan Cote d’Amour, Heeley Sel marin, and Andree Putman Preparation Parfumee. All three of which get good use during Miami summers.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 4:44 pm

      It is a shame they axed Virgilio, it was a great scent that didn’t quite work for me but that I liked to smell. And will 2nd the Andree Putman, which does work for me and which I also like to smell :-)

      Log in to Reply
    • Erin says:
      15 November 2013 at 9:15 pm

      I miss Virgilio, too, and also love the Heeley and Cote d’Amour.

      Log in to Reply
  6. galbanumgal says:
    12 November 2013 at 4:51 pm

    The one that truly reminds me of the ocean is AG’s Vetiver edt…it has a salty/briny facet that isn’t the usual “aquatic.” I believe now it comes as an edc, which I haven’t tried. Think the edt is actually better on men.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 5:47 pm

      Yes, that’s a great scent! Don’t know how it is that we’ve never reviewed it. Sort of inky, too.

      Log in to Reply
    • nozknoz says:
      13 November 2013 at 12:56 pm

      This is my favorite vetiver (and I have many)! I also thought of it, although it’s not actually aquatic, just seems like it works in an ocean context (as it does in many others).

      Log in to Reply
  7. chandler_b says:
    12 November 2013 at 5:47 pm

    Where did you buy the set of 4 travel sizes from? Anyway the smell of sunscreen figures heavily in my olfactory memories of the sea…

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 5:56 pm

      Chandler, I bought one single bottle from someone else.

      For sunscreen, you need CB I Hate Perfume At The Beach 1966!

      Log in to Reply
  8. Bejoux says:
    12 November 2013 at 6:54 pm

    I know it’s not fashionable and it may sound strange but the one fragrance that always hits me like ocean breeze and sea spray in the face – in a good way – is Eternity. I grew up by the sea and it takes me right back there to the wild west coast of Ireland. So for me it’s a great guilty pleasure.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 8:37 pm

      Hey, everyone needs a guilty pleasure! My beach guilty pleasure is Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aqua Motu.

      Log in to Reply
  9. Annikky says:
    12 November 2013 at 7:06 pm

    I was almost sure I would love it and I did – I like the delicate spices (I get quite a lot of cardamom in the beginning) and the impression of the ocean. If someone had asked me, I would have voted for even more ocean-ness, but I’m pretty happy as it is.

    TDC Sel de Vetiver has so far been my sea scent. I have this fantasy of wearing it on an empty late autumn beach in Brittany.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 8:38 pm

      You know, that’s interesting, because I think I like it about as well as I thought I would too.

      Log in to Reply
  10. Abyss says:
    12 November 2013 at 8:21 pm

    Oh, is this finally in the shops then? It feels like it’s been forever since I last asked about it and the SA couldn’t give me a date when it would be available. I might have to pop into Hermès soon.

    It might be a weird choice, but I always think of Terre d’Hermès as seaside-y since it smells kind of salty/earthy/driftwoody to me. It’s a more melancholy kind of beach.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 8:39 pm

      It is not in my local shop, but I understand it is in some shops in the world. My local shop had no idea when it might be there.

      I do love Terre d’Hermes. I think this one is more melancholy, you’ll have to see what you think.

      Log in to Reply
  11. olenska says:
    12 November 2013 at 8:24 pm

    Can’t wait to meet Épice Marine’s “quiet pirate” (love that line!) :) Favorite marine, which I happen to be wearing today: the sadly discontinued Fougère Nakh by Soivohle. Saltwater, iodine, woodsmoke – so beautiful and complex.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 8:40 pm

      Oh, I have not tried that one — sounds interesting!

      The word pirate is maybe getting overused, I was thinking. This is not what you’d expect Johnny Depp to wear in his next Disney outing ;-)

      Log in to Reply
      • olenska says:
        13 November 2013 at 7:49 pm

        Have you seen the Jack Sparrow parody of the Brad Pitt Chanel No. 5 commercial? “Rum… inevitable!” :D

        Log in to Reply
        • Robin says:
          14 November 2013 at 8:55 am

          Yes, that guy really does a good Jack Sparrow!

          Log in to Reply
  12. juicejones says:
    12 November 2013 at 9:33 pm

    Nice review, Robin.
    I just happened to have a sample waiting for me in the mail tonight.
    After reading your post I gave myself a quick spritz and my forearm smelled of old celery. Blech!
    Sat down for dinner and afterwards went in for another sniff.
    Oh, my! Glorious! The saltwater is the scent of your skin and hair after a day at the beach. Like maybe after your best day at the beach. It’s not a real time scent. It has the melancholy and slight regret of saying goodbye to the perfect day and greetings to a tender memory.
    I just love it.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 10:31 pm

      Oh, what a nice ending to a bad beginning! So glad you love it.

      Log in to Reply
    • nozknoz says:
      13 November 2013 at 1:00 pm

      Interesting – sometimes Timbuktu smells like sweaty celery to me, sometimes not. One of those tricky notes.

      Log in to Reply
  13. Marjorie Rose says:
    12 November 2013 at 9:52 pm

    Always willing to give Elena a sniff, but I’m guessing this will be another one that’s too subtle for my loud self!

    I didn’t like it, but I did feel that the briney-ness of Womanity aptly smelled of sea salt, with a hint of gutted fish.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      12 November 2013 at 10:33 pm

      Yes…I didn’t love it either, and actually thought they should have made it even brinier than they did. Maybe not so much gutted fish though, LOL…

      Log in to Reply
  14. Celestia says:
    13 November 2013 at 2:01 am

    Bulgari Aqua: for my nose, the quintessential salty sea essence.
    G of the Sea by Gwen Stefani is also a really good salty sea scent but doesn’t last for more than minutes. Too bad!
    Lys Mediterranee (Malle) is a pretty good entry for this topic but I find it too strong.
    DSquared He Wood Ocean Wet Wood. Much less sweet than the female version.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      13 November 2013 at 7:06 am

      I do wish Gwen Stefani would do more Harajuku Lovers! The G of the Sea was also adorable, glad to hear it was a decent scent even if it didn’t last.

      Log in to Reply
  15. nozknoz says:
    13 November 2013 at 1:13 pm

    I ordered some of the Roellinger spice blends after reading the review on Bois de Jasmin – they’re great! Only drawback is that the shipping from France equalled the cost of the spices; nonetheless, I’m likely to order some of the summery ones next year. :-)

    Between the wonderful spices, unusual notes and intriguing reviews, I’m very curious to try this. Oddly, the Hermessence that I like best is Iris Ukiyoe, which I did not expect to love as Iight florals aren’t usually my thing. I guess it is like Japanese art that manages to both delicate and compelling.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      13 November 2013 at 2:44 pm

      Oh fun…I should do that!

      Log in to Reply
  16. Rappleyea says:
    13 November 2013 at 2:24 pm

    Wonderful review, Robin. You always manage to suck me in until I calm down and remember that if you really like something, I probably won’t. ;-)

    Your poll question made me realize that I don’t actually have a perfume that reminds me of the sea! I’m more of an elegant drawing room (or dining room with the footmen serving crème brûlées) kind of girl – perfume wise that is! I don’t actually live that way.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      13 November 2013 at 2:44 pm

      Ha, but if I like something but don’t love it, where are you likely to be?

      Log in to Reply
      • Rappleyea says:
        14 November 2013 at 9:42 am

        That’s tricky, and we *do* overlap on occasion. You keep me guessing!

        Log in to Reply
  17. rainier says:
    13 November 2013 at 6:15 pm

    The original Eau de Merveilles is my ultimate beach/sea scent. In fall/winter, it reminds me of New England/Mid-Atlantic shores. In spring, I’m reminded of the Calif coast. In summer, I’m taken back to the tropical beaches where I grew up. How does Epice Marine compare to EdM?

    Log in to Reply
  18. Robin says:
    13 November 2013 at 6:24 pm

    To my nose, barely related, other than that there’s probably some light amber in the base of Epice Marine.

    Log in to Reply
  19. rendangboy says:
    14 November 2013 at 6:20 am

    Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel!

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      14 November 2013 at 8:05 am

      Nice pick!

      Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement


Luckyscent

Search

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
August 2020
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

From NST at Twitter

  • "She did it again: Britney Spears fragrance sales soar as fans show their support after #FreeBritney documentary" (… https://t.co/MxT9Sc6im3,

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

TBA April ~ freebiemeet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2021 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.