Verdant is one of the three initial fragrance releases in the new Pentachords series from indie niche line Tauer Perfumes. If you remember, each of the Pentachords is to feature 5 synthetic molecules, no more, no less, no naturals. Tauer called the series a bit of a "mind game", and I suppose limiting yourself in advance to a set number of materials is somewhat arbitrary, but I've no quarrel with it: whatever keeps the perfumer amused and challenged is fine with me; and surely the whole point of indie niche is that you can do what you want, right? As Tauer noted...
It’s a privilege to be smaller. I can do things Chanel can’t.1
Verdant opens citrusy and green and bright, and then quickly turns dark and dirty — not animalic / skanky, but dirty, as in the smell of warm dirt, and lots of it, still very green. I do not know what aromachemicals were used here2 — Tauer lists the notes as dewy leaves, suave leather, brown tobacco, sweet earth and vibrant amber — but the finished results have a strong vetiver character in the early stages: green, warm, earthy. As Verdant develops, that's overlaid with smoky nuances and a touch of dry tobacco leaf. It is not a leather bomb by any means, but as it continues to warm on skin, it does take on the slightest touch of something animalic, and the whole thing is deep and rich and smooth.
Will you like Verdant? Well, that depends on how much you like green and smoky. Verdant is not a light, summer-y sort of green, as in Chanel Bel Respiro or Martin Margiela Untitled (certainly those of you who found Untitled too harsh might find Verdant hard going), nor is it a bury-me-in-greenery, straight-up sort of green, as in Gobin Daudé Sous Le Buis or vintage Balmain Vent Vert. It's murkier, something more like a greenish-brown, and it's not as easy to categorize (or as linear on skin) as you might expect from such a pared-down list of notes. I like it very much; it's my favorite Tauer since Incense rosé.
Verdant is a unisex fragrance, and the lasting power is very good.
Tauer Perfumes Verdant is available in 50 ml Eau de Toilette. It is exclusive to Campomarzio 70 (and can be ordered via email) in Rome until September; after that, for buying information see the listing for Tauer Perfumes under Perfume Houses.
1. Both quotes in the first paragraph via Swiss Mix at the LA Times Magazine.
2. I will make only one guess, and that is that it might contain my old friend iso e super — what's left on skin after a shower smells very much like. But this is not a parlor game that I'm good at.