The new Douglas Hannant perfume is the first scent Robert Piguet has done for an outside designer, and their first new (as opposed to relaunched) fragrance since the 1960s. It seems a logical extension for the Piguet house, given that by now, they've probably done all they can do with the brand's back catalog — since 2006, they've relaunched Baghari, Visa, Cravache, Futur and Calypso, and while they've generally done a great job (no small thanks to perfumer Aurelien Guichard), to my mind, not one of those can touch what they already had on the market, namely Fracas and Bandit.
Douglas Hannant, for those of you who had never heard of him — I hadn't — is known as a socialite's designer; he's been described as a "go-to-guy for trust-fund babies, fashionable philanthropists and other Palm Beach/Park Avenue regulars".1 When I read that, I imagined something heavy and expensive-smelling, like David Yurman Eau de Parfum, but what they've come up with instead is a modern version of Fracas:
This is a fresher, younger Fracas. We stayed with the same floral base and added pear to cut the sweetness at the top. —Frederic Anderson, Douglas Hannant's partner2
The only surprise there, I suppose, is that Piguet hadn't done such a thing already. Fracas, as those of you who adore it already know, is a glorious thing, but it isn't exactly the first perfume that pops to mind when you think of the word "wearable", much less "modern" or "fresh".
If you wanted to explain to someone how perfumery had changed between the late 1940s and today, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better illustration than a drop of vintage Fracas on one hand, a drop of Douglas Hannant on the other. Fracas is full bodied and lush. It smells like an armload of flowers — the sort of armload of flowers that might eventually start to give you a headache if you didn't set it down and move away. The base is creamy and rich, and oh-la-la sexy. It's a good fit with its name.
Douglas Hannant is likewise floral, but it's quiet about it. It doesn't smell like an armload of flowers, and I shouldn't think it will be giving anyone a headache. As advertised, there's lots of pear in the opening (and to my mind, it's plenty sweet, it's just not heavy), then there are all the tropical flowers borrowed from Fracas: orange blossom, gardenia, tuberose, jasmine. They're sheer and thin (and a little sharp) instead of creamy and rich, and there are no indoles anywhere. The overall effect is clean: think "pretty" and "office-friendly" instead of "oh-la-la", and you'll get the idea.
It's quite nicely done (and yes, it's another Aurelien Guichard), and it's quite high on the modern and wearable scale. Whether you will love it, I suppose, depends on where you place yourself in the white floral timeline. I'm an old fogey: I don't think Fracas has been bested yet, and I don't expect that it ever will. If I need something along the lines of a diet Fracas, I'll get my orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose fix from L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons, a fragrance I called "fresh and girly" when I reviewed it in 2005, but which seems positively womanly next to Douglas Hannant. If I need something even fresher still, there's always the watery tuberose of Diptyque Do Son. Douglas Hannant? I enjoyed wearing it, but it isn't something I'm likely to buy. Pear, to my mind, is not something you add to perfume to make it less sweet, it's something you add to perfume to make it smell like it might be shampoo or room spray. Douglas Hannant, in the end, is too fresh and young for my blood.
But please, ignore my deranged anti-pear, don't-mess-with-Fracas ravings and give it a shot, and then do report back and tell me what you think. Meanwhile, I'll give the last word to one of Hannant's actual customers:
I think he nailed it. It's the most delicate, tasteful, feminine smell. It's sublime; I will definitely wear it. —Alex Lind3
Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet is available in 50 ($85) or 100 ($120) ml Eau de Parfum or in 30 ml ($210) Parfum. There is also a limited edition 60 ml Parfum ($350). For buying information, see the listing for Robert Piguet under Perfume Houses.
1. Via Douglas Hannant debuts his first fragrance in Palm Beach at the Sun Sentinel.
2. Via Bettina’s Take: Douglas Hannant Fragrance Launch at FashionEtc.
3. Ibid.
I just can’t get past the name its just not one of those names that clicks with me.LOL Luckily this sounds like its not for me anyway.The bottle is nice classic the name just doesn’t click with me.
I mostly try to ignore fragrance names.
I guess pear is the new “in” ingredient. I never heard of Douglas Hannat. I prefer Carnal Flower to Fracas. It’s got more green lushness, and it lasts forever and projects beautifully if you want to make a statement. But it’s also a wee bit “cleaner” than Fracas. I guess that means it’s modern.
I love Carnal Flower, too. It is true that it is cleaner and more modern than Fracas, but it’s also beautiful — and I would not call it thin or office-friendly. And it doesn’t smell even slightly like shampoo. Or if it did, I’d get a vat of the shampoo.
Get a vat for me, too, will you?
xo A
Oh, no! Sounds like one of those modern fresh concoctions which inevitably end up smelling functional and make me cross because they don’t deserve to be called perfume.
Also, pear can smell like nail polish remover, I find. How does it compare to that pear one by Jo Malone, Robin?
Also, have you smelled Calypso yet?
Hi Abyss – I bought a sample of Calypso last fall b/c I’d been dying to try it. It wasn’t as mysterious as I thought it would be. I am waiting for summer for my final verdict. It is well done fruit (mandarin) rose floral whatever, but it reminds me of some other well done fragrance I’ve smelled recently. It is a very safe fragrance if you know what I mean – totally inoffensive and pretty, not very exciting. Its very well blended to the point it doesnt’ really smell like anything in particular but a really basically pretty floral perfume. It is in my pending pile. Until I figure it out, I remain puzzled. I don’t know if it’s FBW for me, but it is certainly nice. Anyone could do a lot worse. Sorry this is not a very helpful review – there was nothing particularly stunning about it, but still well done.
Thanks, Ann, that’s definitely helpful. I wasn’t sure if I should try and get hold of a sample but I don’t think I’ll bother. I’m sure I’ll come across it eventually but it doesn’t sound like something that I need to go out of my way to test.
You know, I feel bad, because I do think this is a modern fresh concoction, but it’s gajillions of times better than most modern fresh concoctions…you can tell somebody worried over the development, as opposed to just worrying over the branding & advertising, if you know what I mean. And it really is worth trying.
It is much more spring/summer-y than that Jo Malone thing, which really didn’t smell like pear shampoo to me, but I disliked it anyway. And have already mostly forgotten.
I did not try Calypso.
Robin – thanks for the review. Fracas used to scare me away when I was younger and tuberose is always tricky with me. Sometimes it gives me a headache and sometimes it doesn’t. I’ve been thinking for a while now that I need to revisit Fracas. That being said, I’d be happy to test this one too in case Fracas remains too much for me.
I like all the Piguet I’ve smelled – it’s a good solid line. Cravache is especially good masculine/unisex to me. Visa and Calypso are great if not better versions of other well done fragrances already on the market. I think the current Baghari and Visa are the best of the redone ones. And Bandit is always in it’s own orbit. I love the bottles too.
I adore Fracas & Bandit. The rest are really well done, but admit I would not sell a kidney for any of them. On the other hand, wish more firms took the same attitude towards their old classics that Piguet does…they’ve really tried much harder than most to do respectable reformulations.
I like Piguet as a company – they do seem to be more thoughtful about what they produce and move in their own direction. There is certainly no “frenzy” at Piguet.
True. On the one hand, I’m really surprised they haven’t done Fracas flankers. On the other, isn’t it nice that they haven’t?
You lost me at pear….
I’m in the kind of business (Thoroughbred race horses) populated with the kind of people for which Mr. Hannant designs, and trust me – they *don’t* wear light perfumes. Go to the annual TOBA awards (our version of the Oscars) – you can’t breathe the air is so heavily perfumed!
At these events do you ever entertain yourself guessing what all these perfumes are? Or do they just get mashed together in the air?? It brings up an interesting question – if you were ever to be overwhelmed by a big perfume, which one would it be?
lol! Yes! A couple of years ago, I went to the dinner because Aretha Franklin was the entertainment (she was GREAT, btw) and there was a lot of a cedar-y, almost Christmas tree smell in the very warm, humid air. I’m assuming it was something that the men were wearing, and I still wonder what it was.
The biggest gassing that I can remember was back in the ’80’s at one of the big charity balls in Saratoga, NY. It was held in a ginormous tent during August and as I walked in I was overcome by the fumes of Giorgio. I think every woman there was doused in it!
Well, come on over to a Draft Horse Show. Everybody smells like hay, horse poop and mud. Much nicer!
xo
Now that’s the smell I love! I’ve posted before that when I come in from a long day at the horse sales (Keeneland), my skin smells just like Dzing.
Yay for hay, horse poop and mud! And leave out the pear. It seems they’re adding pear to everything nowadays – is it the new oud? (LOL).
..and on that, we agree! Hold the pear, please.
You know, that’s what I would have thought too…that his audience would tend to wear heavier perfumes than most of the rest of the world. But, also assume they want this to have wide appeal?
Maybe to their daughters? That’s what it sounds like to me – that they’re aiming at the younger crowd.
Yes, that could well be.
I have never smelled Fracas, but it sounds like everything I hated about perfume when I was a kid (and still don’t like)- a big, in your face white floral oozing with sweetness that will never go away. Perfumes like that kept me away from scents of any kind up until this last year. The only white flower I’m willing to get on my skin is gardenia, and it has to be tiare/mixed with coconut or something else to take the edge off.
Anyway, this sounds like something I would be very willing to try, but am unlikely to come across or go out of my way to sample it. I LOVE pear. I mean, its got to be a better take on clean and modern than CK Beauty, right? (Surely ANYTHING is better than Beauty.)
Yes, it is better than CK Beauty! Do try it. And give Fracas a shot.
Well, I HAD been interested in this scent, despite not knowing a darn thing about Douglas Hannant. And sometimes Fracas is too big and dressy and orange-blossomy for my personal taste (I’d far rather have Carnal Flower).
Now, I don’t know. Probably won’t bother to seek it out. Have been terribly disappointed in the last few things I bought decants of because they were new and sounded good…
Oh, do try it anyway. I’m curious to see other reviews — maybe I’m just too cranky!
I adore Fracas, but sometimes I’m not in the mood for it either. This just doesn’t scratch that white flower itch for me in any way…it’s too clean and too pear.
Robin…. speaking of Fracas now… is there any significant difference between what’s currently available and the older stuff? So like if for instance I did try and get my hot hands on a bottle of Fracas from any good shop now, it would be respectable? Or is Fracas one of those fragrances where you must get an older bottle to really appreciate it?
Ack…see my answer below to ol rait, I misfiled!
I was thinking that I might like a “freshened” Fracas (the original smells like I’ve been basting in butter for a few hours, then covered up my funk with a hearse-full of tuberose), but once I read “girlier than La Chasse aux Papillons,” I decided I probably wasn’t going to enjoy this. I still want to smell Futur, though.
I think it was Tom over at Perfume Smellin’ Things who said men can wear every note save tuberose and though at first I was indignant, I find I agree. I haven’t found a tuberose yet that I feel comfortable wearing, and this from a guy who wore Shalimar all day (the parfum–two dabs and 7 hours and still going strong!
). Maybe one day, but it’s nice not to have to worry over smelling everything that lists tuberose.
I don’t think you need vintage, but I don’t know. I have not smelled the new stuff in a couple years, so possibly I’ve missed anything recently IFRA-ed. I thought it was just fine then, and haven’t heard anything dire about it.
My vintage parfum is fabulous…I think it’s probably more fabulous than it was new, it has a great “aged” smell to it.
Honestly, I have troubles with almost all tuberose; Fracas is just my least favorite of the “Trinity.” But Tuberose Criminelle has a mean streak in the drydown (though I LOVE the cacophony up top) and Carnal Flower smells like snuffed candle on me.
I know what you mean by “aged” and I wish it could be simulated right out of the can. It’s a shame than even if you separately find two bottles from the same batch, twenty years pass and they’ll probably smell different. Makes it even more poignant (or depressing if you lean towards pessimism).
It is depressing, esp. since buying vintage Fracas is iffy: it apparently went through some bad times before the current company bought the Piguet name.
Actually, this was probably to Ann, huh?
It was! I apologize. My answer to you would be: even Tubereuse Criminelle? I would really think a man could wear Tubereuse Criminelle.
Oh, it’s not a problem. I feel a little silly responding to an unintentional non sequitur but I know it happens. :3
I really did well when I first sampled Tuberose Criminelle (during a kidney stone! xD) but I won a decant from Victoria over at Bois de Jasmin and the drydown is just grating. And at the same time, I have a hard time saying it smells of tuberose. Hmmm.
Another possibility, if you really *want* a tuberose, is the one by i Profumi di Firenze. Very nicely done, and not so “white floral” as many.
I generally like pear as a note, but for the price point, I’m able to think of lots of other perfumes I’d rather buy. Though I do adore Fracas and have splurged on the 30ml extrait twice and hope I’ll feel moved to do so again when my bottle runs out. There just seems to be too many Fracas Light interpretations out there for me to pay Fracas prices for. A decant would be lovely but an fb isn’t on my buy list from the sound of it, which is a relief.
If one were interested in obtaining some vintage Fracas, would Ebay be the best route? I bought my first bottle in ’05 or ’06 and don’t note any difference between it and my newest bottle, so maybe I was lucky and scored a pre-IFRA abomination.
I guess eBay, but as I mentioned above, Fracas did go through some rough times. You either want something that’s very old, or pretty new.
Don’t feel bad, Robin – I’m of the same “don’t mess with Fracas” mindset, and Fracas isn’t even one of my favorites. Attempting to lighten and freshen anything with the weight, heft, bosom, and bottom of Fracas is missing the point entirely, and creating a lesser creature, not just a different one. (In my opinion. Having never sniffed this new thing.)
The burgeoning pear trend reeks of perfumers (and their art directors) grasping. What’s next, mango?
LOL…see, I like mango! the first PdN with mango is one of my all time favorite fruity florals. So of course they discontinued it, and of course just at this moment I can’t remember what it was called. They replaced it with another mango that I didn’t like so much.
I’ve worn Fracas since the Dawn of Time and love it – but recognize that it can be overwhelming. Solution: I do the body wash and body creme (ditto Carnal Flower). It doesn’t seem to terrify folks quite as much.
I won’t seek DH out but if I come across it I will definitely do a sniff test against my vaunted Fracas.
xo
The solid, when you can find it, also has very little sillage, and is very true to the scent. Don’t really know if they’re still making it though, and mine is so old it’s losing its scent now.
I do think that if you love Fracas, there’s no point in comparing the two. I’d probably have liked this more if Fracas had never been mentioned.
I don’t understand why all these wonderful and iconic fragrances even need “updating” at all. Youth Dew, Shalimar and Fracas were just perfect as they were! It’s just a way to work the name brand recognition to death.
To me the best update was the Youth Dew one, but it’s hard to find now. But even so I am not crying about it. I so love my rollerball of Fracas but I too prefer Carnal Flower. My DH however prefers Fracas.
I am not even slightly tempted to try this one at all.
Well, so they’ll sell, I guess! After all, we do want these companies to stay in business. In the end, anything that keeps Piguet afloat is good for me in the long run
Fuddy Duddy 101, Piguet is NOT replacing Fracas with Hannet. Where did you get that idea? Yes, it is a variation on the theme, but not a replacement. Fracas is alive and well thankyouverymuch.
My stance: I too don’t like pear. Sure it’s fine in my body wash or shampoo, but not in my perfume. I LOVE Fracas and have been wearing it for 15 years. That said, I never wear it in the summer as I feel it’s too heavy.
I’m loving the Douglas Hannant. Yes, it’s similar to Fracas, but I feel it’s better for the summer. I’ll wear it through Sept and in Oct bring out my Fracas. My DH loves them both and agrees with my seasonal reasoning.
Carnal Flower? A real favorite of mine, but it’s such a “dirty” tuberose, I wouldn’t even put in the same soft feminine prettiness at Fracas or Hannant.
Rappleyea – millions of women wore Giorgio in the 80’s, not just the horsey set.
Fracas and Bandit are great and I went for Visa. Great disappointment this time. I know all Piguets have been reformulated and Visa was reformulated to smell like water.