Three artworks by three different artists prompt three perfumes (or “aromatic illustrations”) in the new Jacomo Art Collection. Jacomo, the company, opened for business in New York in the late 1960s; it was founded by James Kaplan, art collector, and Gérard Courtin, French pianist. According to Jacomo PR, the company name was derived from “‘Ja’ for James, ‘co’ for Courtin, and ‘mo’ — to give the name a musical touch.”
All three Art Collection fragrances are well done, but I like Art Collection #02 best (it was influenced by the work of Cecilia Carlstedt). Art Collection #02 is described by Jacomo as “sensual, bohemian and a little bit wild.” It was inspired by an “enigmatic muse depicted in Cecilia Carlstedt’s work — a mysterious girl who could have escaped Carlstedt’s New York studio, leaving a trail of gum, leather and modeling clay scents in her wake.” (Let’s hope Carlstedt is not really imprisoning her muses.) Art Collection #02 includes fragrance notes of bergamot, amaryllis, tonka bean, vanilla, suede accord, amber, and patchouli.
Art Collection #02 starts with a powdery, yet slightly “aquatic” (how can that be?) “gum” accord — a mix of ‘rubber cement’/old-fashioned Play-Doh aromas, tonka bean, and a diffuse leather note. Art Collection #02 reminds me of two other fragrances: Bvlgari Black and Etro Gomma. There’s not much development after the first minutes on skin; Art Collection #02 is a linear fragrance with tonka bean at its center — capped by rubber/leather and sitting on a “nutty vanilla”/light amber base. Though I recently had a mini-rant about the prevalence of tonka bean in men’s fragrances of late, the way tonka bean is handled in Art Collection #02 pleases me; it presents natural, subtle tonka bean — blurred and blunted by quirky notes.
The Jacomo Art Collection also includes: #09 — to me, the least interesting and most feminine fragrance of the trio — a food-y/fruity perfume (artist: Stina Persson; notes: lemon zest, orange pulp, red berries, praline accord, mango, cinnamon, sandalwood, vanilla); and India-inspired #08 — a light fragrance with spices, milky tea, and honeyed, dried fruit notes — this is how L’Eau Serge Lutens should have smelled (artist: Daniel Egnéus; notes: cardamom, ginger, black tea, freesia, milky accord, dried fruits, cinnamon, honey, amber).
I believe Jacomo is short sighted in billing all three of these perfumes as “feminine”…men could wear #02 and #08 (good “oriental” fragrances for spring or summer). The Jacomo Art Collection fragrances are available in Eau de Parfum: $69 for 50 ml and $89 for 100 ml; they can be found at Indiescents or Bigelow Chemists.
Note: top images are cropped sections of the artworks that inspired the Jacomo Art Collection; from left to right, images for #09, #08 and #02.
Wow, finally something I’ve already smelled!
I loved #2 but I couldn’t make up my mind if I wanted a bottle. To my mind, it smells almost exactly like modeling clay, which is a neat trick. It’s certainly weird but I don’t think it would be hard to wear. Time will tell, surely.
Ol rait: glad someone’s smelled it! I really think #02 wears perfectly on a chilly, rainy day.
I like the bottle, it looks like it would be satisfying to hold. #02 sounds interesting. I am trying to remember Jacomo scents from the past (what they smelled like/were they nice?) but I am drawing a total blank… can someone jog my memory?
sarahbeth: I don’t think these are readily available on most perfume shelves. I think the only one I’ve seen is the men’s Jacomo de Jacomo…and when I searched it, it was available at Kmart and such. This Art Collection line is more expensive it seems.
I really like the sweet play-doh scent of #2. Agree that it’s not much development going on, but it’s one of those uncomplicated comfort scents that is great for winter. On me it’s pretty short lived, I can spray until my arm is dripping, it’s still gone in a couple of hours.
Bjorn: I did have to reapply several times during the day when I was testing this.
Don’t know about the scents bit I do like the green broody picture!
Merlin: that one is my favorite of the three too.
I do like the artwork of the third picture. Not familiar with the scents though.
Dolly…I rarely come across Jacomo fragrances in stores so am not familiar with their scents.
I dont think ive tried any Jacomo fragrances. How do these compare to some of their older offereings?
Rictor: I can’t help…was hoping someone would chime in with a recommendation.
Was just joining in to recomment Jacomo Silences, which is one of my favorites. That’s the only Jacomo I’ve even tried. It is a beautiful green chypre along the lines of YSL Y, only a little fuller. Y seems so spare to me. (And I like Y.) Knowing Silences is discontinued makes me want to stock up. And I would like to try the new Jacomos.
#08 sounds pretty yummy right now. Will have to check these out….
Yep. I read “a light fragrance with spices, milky tea, and honeyed, dried fruit notes” and immediately went to Indiescents and ordered a sample. A light oriental I could wear in spring/summer? Sign me up!
aparatchick: hope you like it
Tama; #08 is very nice.
Mmmmm… this sounds good! You had me at “mix of ‘rubber cement’/old-fashioned Play-Doh aromas”!
**off to locate a sample**
Dee: I know…I love the scent of rubber cement..and even Play-Doh in small amounts.
They’re happy smells! (I was a crafty kid)
I have the discontinued Jacomo Silences, which first came out in 1978. It is a lovely soft, quiet version of the classic green chypre, and something of a cult favorite among many perfumistas. I didn’t even realize that Jacomo is still around – glad to learn of interesting new launches, and thanks very much for the explanation of the name, Kevin!
Noz: thanks…and I had forgotten about that perfume…it was so popular
Thanks for the interesting and fun reviews, Kevin. You’ve sparked a desire in me to try the Play-Doh one! Always a favorite smell as a kid. I keep meaning to try Sliences as well, and of course the word “discontinued” triggers my Pavlovian response to acquire a bottle!
Rappleyea: what’s this about “discontinued?” Silences is still on the Jacomo website for sale.
Oh, no – am I spreading false rumors (again!). I know these are terrible excuses, but I thought it was discontinued because a) it was not reviewed in The Guide and b) it is such a cult favorite. Aaack – sorry!