When I think of recent Tauer Perfumes launches (Eau d’Épices and Une Rose Vermeille), I think of Lady Gaga’s costumes and all things “radioactive.” These attention-seeking perfumes, with the half-life of uranium-235, are bombshells: once applied to skin and clothes their effects last (almost) forever — through showers, baths, heavy-duty laundry cycles, and dry-cleanings. The scents wear ME, and during the course of a day, they wear me out (I get tired of their non-stop blare). Yet, I couldn’t resist trying Carillon pour un ange*, Andy Tauer’s homage to lily of the valley (one of my favorite flower scents). How would Tauer create such a delicate aroma?
Carillon pour un ange’s list of notes includes lilac, rose, ylang-ylang, green lily of the valley accord, jasmine, leather, ambergris, moss and woods. Carillon pour un ange starts off with a tropical-smelling, floral accord that reminds me of plumeria (probably a mix of rose and strong, sweet lilac) — with some added “greens.” There is a certain old-fashioned, creamy aspect to the opening; I detected a familiar scent from my past, and it took me awhile to “get” it: Jergens® lotion! (Since I haven’t smelled Jergens body lotion in at least ten years, I can’t vouch for the accuracy of this comparison with today’s Jergens formula…or should I say formulas …there are at least 15 moisturizers in the current line!)
During mid-development, Carillon pour un ange smells like one of my favorite fragrance combos: Eau d’Hermès layered with Diptyque Mimosa room spray — yep, I wear it with pride and no (apparent) bad side-effects.
When sniffed up close, Carillon pour un ange offers up a cumin note (and perhaps a touch of “cedar”) — this spicy-woody accord is needed to prevent a “mugging” of the wearer by floral notes. Cumin becomes more apparent during the dry-down…along with a touch of leather and “lipstick” ylang-ylang (a “cosmetics” scent). The fragrance wears down to a floral-amber-talc accord, with only a hint of muskiness.
To my nose, Carillon pour un ange is 100 percent in the “feminine” fragrance camp; its strong, liquory-sweet florals dominate all spice, wood, leather and musk notes. If you love “retro”, va-va-voom floral perfumes with pizzazz, do give Carillon pour un ange a try (this “ange” is displaying some cleavage…perhaps un ange déchu?**)
Carillon pour un ange doesn’t remind me of lily of the valley; other perfumes come closer to replicating that flower’s aroma (Diorissimo and even Coty Muguet des Bois). Lily of the valley is a scent best smelled on the stem, its fleeting perfume all the more special for the short time it blooms in the garden.
Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un ange has excellent lasting power and sillage (a single spray or drop is all that’s needed). This Tauer perfume didn’t bring to mind Lady Gaga, but it made me imagine another type of “bombshell”: Jean Harlow, between takes, in her flower-strewn Hollywood dressing room, circa 1933.
Carillon pour un ange is available in 15 ml Eau de Parfum, $75. It is expected to move into the Tauer Perfumes 30 ml (see image here, at right) bottle early next year. For buying information, see the listing for Tauer Perfumes under Perfume Houses.
*chimes for an angel
Note: Jean Harlow image via Wikimedia Commons.