The Jordanian desert — and the national flower of Jordan, the black-blossomed Iris petrana — are the inspirations for Odin 04 Petrana, a new unisex perfume created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville. I think of “desert scents” as being dry and austere — smelling of “wood dust,” pungent grasses, sharp spices, warm incense ash. (Perhaps I’m being too literal?) 04 Petrana is not “gritty,” dry or “hot.” If 04 Petrana conjures anything desert-related, it's a moist, flowery oasis. 04 Petrana is a lush perfume.
04 Petrana includes fragrance notes of deep purple cassis, pink pepper, herbaceous coriander, black iris, violet leaf, heliotrope, wild orris root, vetiver, and white musk. 04 Petrana opens with sweet cassis (think cassis cordial, not fresh berries); this smooth, sugared cassis note lasts throughout the life of the fragrance and adds a cheeriness to the composition. As cassis calms, I smell whiffs of citrus-y, green coriander, high-quality violet leaf, and an “undulating” and “wet” iris-violet accord (strong one minute, soft the next). The floral aspect of 04 Petrana is augmented with ‘fresh’ heliotrope — a note that complements both the opening floral accord and 04 Petrana's slightly powdery base of pepper, vetiver, (cedar-y) wood and light musk.
The first time I smelled 04 Petrana it brought to mind another favorite scent of mine — but which one? It took me two torturous days to figure out the mystery: 04 Petrana reminds me of Tom Ford Purple Patchouli: there’s long-lasting fruit and floral notes, subtle spiciness, overall zing and some powder in the base. But Purple Patchouli is “molasses” compared to 04 Petrana’s simple syrup; Purple Patchouli is hefty...and, unfortunately, discontinued.
After many weeks of sampling an array of safe, overtly masculine, outdoorsy fragrances, 04 Petrana is a relief — proudly floral, complex and energetic (without being interested in sports). At first, I thought 04 Petrana was a quiet fragrance (it is, compared to Purple Patchouli), but I quickly learned it has powerful sillage (several people asked me, in the middle of a windy street, what perfume I was wearing). 04 Petrana has very good lasting power too, and, for me, is a scent that can be worn year-round.
Odin 04 Petrana is $110 for 100 ml Eau de Toilette; for buying information see the listing for Odin under Perfume Houses.
Note: Top image of iris [altered] at Wikimedia Commons.
I’m still in love with 01 of the series so far. That will be a FB one day. Will def try this though.
C: Yes, try this one too.
Really looking forward to trying this now. That ‘undulating’ iris-violet accord sounds lovely. But what I’d most love to experience is the marvelous Petra itself. It’s number one on the list of places I must experience.
Jirish: me too…!
The best time to be at Petra is on a Friday afternoon, when the souvenir sellers aren’t working. The best season to go is early spring. It is hot but not unhealthy. Summer temperatures can easily reach 40 C. Stay at the Movenpick Hotel. The Petra Moon Hotel is a cheaper alternative, but miles away from the luxury of the Movenpick. There are a number of smaller Nabatean sites near Petra that you could also visit such as Wadi Musa and Little Petra. If you like hiking, then don’t miss the Wadi Rum. I’m an archaeologist specializing in that region during the Iron Age and, although Petra is later than the period of my research, I go there as often as possible because it is so spectacular. I am dying to get a chance to explore the back wadis. If you climb to the top of the first sacrificial high place, near the Wadi Farasa, you see mile upon mile of tombs along wadis stretching into the distance, none of which are a preserved part of the official site.
I have never tried any of the Odin fragrances, but I’m looking forward to sampling this one not least because of the association. It sounds lovely. The most “desert-like” perfume that I can think of is Tauer L’AADM.
PekeFan…thanks for the info…I’m sure finding a deserted Petra is HARD to do. IMPORTANT: I bet you’ve seen/smelled the black iris in Jordan…what does it smell like?
I’m printing this out to save the info. Thanks so much for the inside scoop! I’m hoping to get there right after I get my son through college.
Haven’t tried anything from Odin yet, this sounds really interesting. I guess i’ ll be sampling this house soon. I am a sucker for heliotrope popping up anywhere in a fragrance. Much as I love those smoke and incense desert frags I think it has other inspirations to offer as well.
Tim: I have heliotrope blooming now and it’s a great aroma.
This sounds gorgeous, although sometimes the violet/heliotrope combination can be too sweet for me. How would you rate the sweetness factor of this one, Kevin?
Great review! Thanks.
Rappleyea: don’t know if you can trust me on sweetness…I live on desserts (and dream of them)…”Kevin, some coffee with your SUGAR?” So, to me, Petrana is medium-sweet, but it might set your teeth on edge! Who knows?!
LOL! I also take a little coffee with my cream and sugar. I love L’Heure Bleue (although the anise cuts the sweetness there) so I might have to try this one. Thanks!
Oh Wow! I’ve not tested them before, but this fragrance sounds really really interesting and beautiful!!!
Anns: give them a try…it’s a good line.
Nomad was by far the best of the first three. This one doesnt really peak my interest since i dont recall liking Purple Patchouli.
Rictor…this IS lighter than Purple Patchouli…when I tried the two fragrances side by side, left wrist drenched with PP, right wrist drenched with Petrana…Purple Patchouli actually jumped my body and devoured Petrana.
I am really glad that I have a bad memory, and will forget to get a sample of this. I am better off not needing another lemming, and this sounds reeeeeally enticing!
A bad memory is a good thing with all these perfume releases if you can’t control yourself. I keep LISTS of things I want to try and possibly review…but I ditch the list after six months most of the time…and rarely buy a thing anymore!
Wow, this sounds wonderful! I haven’t tried anything from this line, but will definitely check this one out. Thanks for the review!
Jill: you’re welcome!
I have accidentally becoming entranced by this fragrance. Maybe because it’s a fruity cocktail scent with just enough woodiness. And yes, the violet leaf is pronounced and very high quality! It’s lovely. I’m glad for happy accidents like this!
Bigpharma: glad you’re enjoying it….
Kevin , thank you for reviewing this, I have discovered I love heliotrope, vetiver and violet this summer. It sounds comforting and yummy.
I love and need both of those factors in my perfumes.
I definitely want that now as I just saw our weather forecast-rainy for the next 4 days!
Summer wasn’t as long or as warm as I wanted this year in Wa.
Is it ever?
How do you think this gem will hold up in winter here?
Tamara: I think it will hold up well…but will we? Did you hear we’re in for the wettest winter in 30 years thanks to La Nina? Snow, too!
Oh no! We won’t!
That really sucks, just like the winter two years ago huh?
Remember everyone was snowbound and b*tchin’ but we had summer in early May and then by July everyone was complaining it was too much sun! ha.
Well I don’t know about you but it sounds like a good enough reason to try this and maybe treat myself .
Oh Kevin, I’m not looking forward to grey skies one bit!
Well, you forced me to put away my recent samples so I could look to see what Odin scents I have and of course I have 01, 02, and 03. Hmph.
Purple Patch is gone? I don’t know if I even ever smelled it!
I’ve never smelled TF PP either Tama, and I really want to!
Tama: it was one of my favorites from the original line-up of TF Private Blends…so sorry it went the way of the Dodo bird.
This is the first Odin fragrance I’ve tried and I like it very much. It’s all about the iris,orris, violet leaf on me. Probably won’t purchase it though. For a FB iris/orris thing, I’m saving my pennies for VC&A Bois d’Iris and/or Heeley Iris de Nuit, and this really did sort of remind me of those, just a little sweeter.
Rustic Dove: hmmm…I’ll have to try the Heeley, haven’t had luck with any of their things yet…as far as NEEDING one of the perfumes goes…. .
I was interested in this until I heard the PP comparison — there’s something in it that’s off — a very weird smoke note. However, I may nab a sample in any case. Haven’t tried any of the Odins.