The Jordanian desert — and the national flower of Jordan, the black-blossomed Iris petrana — are the inspirations for Odin 04 Petrana, a new unisex perfume created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville. I think of “desert scents” as being dry and austere — smelling of “wood dust,” pungent grasses, sharp spices, warm incense ash. (Perhaps I’m being too literal?) 04 Petrana is not “gritty,” dry or “hot.” If 04 Petrana conjures anything desert-related, it's a moist, flowery oasis. 04 Petrana is a lush perfume.
04 Petrana includes fragrance notes of deep purple cassis, pink pepper, herbaceous coriander, black iris, violet leaf, heliotrope, wild orris root, vetiver, and white musk. 04 Petrana opens with sweet cassis (think cassis cordial, not fresh berries); this smooth, sugared cassis note lasts throughout the life of the fragrance and adds a cheeriness to the composition. As cassis calms, I smell whiffs of citrus-y, green coriander, high-quality violet leaf, and an “undulating” and “wet” iris-violet accord (strong one minute, soft the next). The floral aspect of 04 Petrana is augmented with ‘fresh’ heliotrope — a note that complements both the opening floral accord and 04 Petrana's slightly powdery base of pepper, vetiver, (cedar-y) wood and light musk.
The first time I smelled 04 Petrana it brought to mind another favorite scent of mine — but which one? It took me two torturous days to figure out the mystery: 04 Petrana reminds me of Tom Ford Purple Patchouli: there’s long-lasting fruit and floral notes, subtle spiciness, overall zing and some powder in the base. But Purple Patchouli is “molasses” compared to 04 Petrana’s simple syrup; Purple Patchouli is hefty...and, unfortunately, discontinued.
After many weeks of sampling an array of safe, overtly masculine, outdoorsy fragrances, 04 Petrana is a relief — proudly floral, complex and energetic (without being interested in sports). At first, I thought 04 Petrana was a quiet fragrance (it is, compared to Purple Patchouli), but I quickly learned it has powerful sillage (several people asked me, in the middle of a windy street, what perfume I was wearing). 04 Petrana has very good lasting power too, and, for me, is a scent that can be worn year-round.
Odin 04 Petrana is $110 for 100 ml Eau de Toilette; for buying information see the listing for Odin under Perfume Houses.
Note: Top image of iris [altered] at Wikimedia Commons.