• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Trygve Harris of Enfleurage, Part 2 ~ out of the bottle

Posted by Alyssa on 21 July 2010 23 Comments

Trygve Harris

In Part 2 of her interview, Enfleurage owner Trygve Harris discusses the ethics of sourcing agarwood, the challenges of pleasures of living in Oman, and her modern enfleurage project in Colombia. You can find Part 1 here.


In your FAQ and articles on the Enfleurage website, you make it clear that the aromatics trade is politically and ethically complex. It’s sometimes difficult to tell where exactly something is coming from, and you often deal with regions that are rife with conflict. Can you talk about a difficulty you’ve faced?

Yeah, I’ve gotten pretty cynical over the years, whether it’s finding what “organic” might mean in Nepal, or just being in New York. You might find that everyone is screaming “endangered species” just because everyone else is, or that we all accept a line of BS just because we want to. Sometimes you have to keep looking and follow your hunch.

I am probably best known for agarwood. It was (and still is) on all the lists, as endangered and overharvested etc. Believe me it was weird to be on the other side of the environmental argument. It was not comfortable at all. I don’t know that we all resolved it to mutual satisfaction as I still hear all about this “sustainable harvest” oil, but it’s very complex.

My argument was basically that we are losing the forests of SE Asia despite, not because of agarwood, although the wild supply in Laos is pretty well finished. I don’t like the way those poor farmed trees are infected, and the oil that comes from them isn’t oudh in any case, it’s boyah. Yet trees are farmed in Assam, India, and not tormented into infection, but due to the Indian bureaucracy, they don’t exist because they are in people’s homes, not industrial areas. So after being in this world for years, and knowing people from TRAFFIC [the wildlife trade monitoring organization] as well as agarwood mafia [those who control the trade], I am satisfied with my position.


Speaking of countries facing serious difficulties, I’m fascinated by your modern enfleurage1 project in Colombia. Could you talk a little about what you’re doing there and why?

Well, I was contacted long ago by these interested and curious Colombians and we have been buying their products and going down to help whenever we can. It was a long learning process for all of us. They did their research, as did we, but some things had to be changed, like the pig fat. So it’s done with palm oil. The actual process used in France turned out to be wasteful and impractical, with the blossoms directly on the fat, and so forth, so this was changed as well. I think the results are fantastic. We have the only real Gardenia oil anywhere and it smells perfect. We also have perfect Tuberose and Lily.

The downside is that we picked the worst time for this, economically. These enfleurages are very expensive, and so they have not moved as fast as we had hoped although this is now picking up dramatically. They changed the farm over to full organic, and they are meticulous in the extreme. We don’t have the certification yet though as we are still waiting for one of the big perfume houses to support us. It’s just too big an outlay. They have borrowed up to the hilt to make these gorgeous oils.

Colombia is famous for flowers — the climate is perfect. And there are plenty of people who have suffered so much in the past, who now earn a small but serene living making Gardenia enfleurage. In time, we hope to expand this project all over Colombia.


You’re spending a lot of time in Oman these days, working with frankincense harvesters and distilling frankincense. What kind of challenges and pleasures have you had working as a single white American woman in Oman?

Well, yes, I am here much of the time now and trying to make it more and more time. I really love it, it’s a blessing and there are lots of pleasures. And yes, it’s been challenging, for plenty of reasons, and not necessarily the ones you’d expect. I’m pretty unusual here.

First of all, single. At first people were puzzled. Then accepting. Now I think they are a bit uncomfortable and how long will I keep this up when there are so many nice Omani men around? But westerners have strange habits, everyone knows that!

White. Well, that’s a bonus of course. My friend (male) criticized me the other day for getting a suntan; it spoils the effect. Omani women don’t ever feel the sun. Ever. They wear complete hijab, covering everything. Sometimes the eyes show but not always.

The American thing has been a bit of an issue, even though no one likes to say it. As time marches on though, people share their opinions more freely and the US is not well-liked, as we all know, due to our foreign policies, mostly. But the Omanis are the most polite and hospitable people on the planet. My main challenge has been to fit in with them as best I can.

Living in a small, remote, ultra-conservative Islamic tribal town is interesting. There are no familiar customs and everything I thought I knew was wrong, as usual. There is basically nothing in the way I was raised or the way I live in New York that applies here. Even the language is difficult as we have a local language which is a mélange of three — Salalah town Arabic, the mountain language (Jebali) and the desert language (Meheri.) Plus you need some Urdu and Malyalam too, with all the people from the Subcontinent.

Basically, I have needed patience. You can’t show anger here, but sweetness works spectacularly well. It makes you see gender roles in a new light because they are extraordinarily delineated. I have to ask for help all the time. But Omani men jump to give it. Also, Omanis are all about human relationships. They are highly attuned to the unspoken word, to body language, to insinuation and they have eyes like falcons. No way to get away with lying or pretending here, even to yourself. It’s like being under a microscope.


And finally, I have to ask—Trygve is a common Norwegian name, yes? How did it come to be yours? And how do you prounounce it?

My parents named me after Trygve Lie, secretary general of the UN. I pronounce it Trig-vuh.


Note: image supplied by Trygve Harris.

1. Enfleurage is an old extraction technique in which flower petals are layered in solid fats; you can read more about it here. It is rarely used today. Harris has developed a modern version of this practice that "involves a gentle coaxing of aromatic molecules into palm oil, which is allowed to saturate over time and then is washed with alcohol, which is then distilled to separate out the oil." (via the FAQ at the Enfleurage website)

Many thanks to Trygve Harris for her participation!

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: enfleurage, interviews

Advertisement


23 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. dissed says:
    21 July 2010 at 1:57 pm

    Fascinating. Thank you.

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 2:07 pm

      Your welcome!

      And to everyone else who might stop by–my internet connection is acting up today, so I’ll respond and read as I can, but I may have to wait and head out to a cafe this evening. I do love to hear everyone’s thoughts, though, so chat away!

      Log in to Reply
  2. cheryl_a says:
    21 July 2010 at 2:42 pm

    I love this comment:
    “They are highly attuned to the unspoken word, to body language, to insinuation and they have eyes like falcons. No way to get away with lying or pretending here, even to yourself. It’s like being under a microscope.” I wonder how scent and perfume play into that.

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 2:45 pm

      I have no idea, but it’s a fascinating question, Cheryl. I’ll have to ask Trygve if I get a chance.

      Log in to Reply
  3. Rappleyea says:
    21 July 2010 at 3:43 pm

    This was fascinating! Wonderful interview Alyssa, and very thoughtful and thought provoking answers from Trygve. I’m not sure if I would be adventurous enough to live in Oman, but it was certainly interesting to read about life there.

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 6:56 pm

      I’m not adventurous enough to live in a small, rural, conservative town in the U.S. let alone in Oman, but she seems to take it in stride, doesn’t she?

      Log in to Reply
  4. Joe says:
    21 July 2010 at 5:33 pm

    Very interesting, Alyssa. Thanks for this two-part interview. And thanks for reminding me about Perfumer’s Apprentice; that’s been at the back of my mind for a very long time. Really, I’ll have to try to make time to visit and do some sniffing at Enfleurage next time I’m in New York (probably December). Looking at the shopping area of the site made me really want to spend a whole lot of money!

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 6:57 pm

      Oh good, I’m glad you’ll be able to visit the shop. I always seem to end up there on a day when I’ve been harried and distressed and it’s always a little oasis of calm and goodwill.

      Log in to Reply
    • Rappleyea says:
      21 July 2010 at 10:46 pm

      Joe – I can attest to the fact that their essential oils are first rate.

      Log in to Reply
  5. Haunani says:
    21 July 2010 at 5:50 pm

    I love stories about people who follow their passion. Thank you for this fascinating interview!

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 6:58 pm

      Thanks for reading! And I love people with a passion, too. I think almost anything is interesting if the right, passionate person is talking about it…

      Log in to Reply
  6. aftelier says:
    21 July 2010 at 5:57 pm

    I have bought some of the most incredible frankincense resin from Trygve and I follow the work that she does. This was a terrific interview and I admire Trygve’s adventurous spirit very much.
    Mandy

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      22 July 2010 at 9:45 am

      Thanks very much for reading, Mandy! Must say, we’re fans of your work around here, too…

      Log in to Reply
  7. Flora says:
    21 July 2010 at 6:25 pm

    Wow, thank you for this amazing glimpse into a wholly different way of life! She must be a n extraordinary person to be able to work out all the cultural differences while pursuing her passion.

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      21 July 2010 at 6:58 pm

      Wouldn’t you love to be a fly on the wall and see how it’s done?

      Log in to Reply
  8. RusticDove says:
    21 July 2010 at 8:19 pm

    She’s a special person and I’ve enjoyed learning more about Enfleurage and especially about the woman behind it all.

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      22 July 2010 at 4:46 pm

      So glad you enjoyed it.

      Log in to Reply
  9. nozknoz says:
    21 July 2010 at 10:25 pm

    Wonderful interview, Alyssa! I really admire Ms. Harris and will seek to support this effort in my own small way by following the lemmings aroused by her tempting website :-)

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      22 July 2010 at 9:46 am

      Always nice when the lemmings run towards a worthy cliff! ;-)

      Log in to Reply
  10. Daisy says:
    21 July 2010 at 11:20 pm

    Great interview, nicely done all around. Very enjoyable to read. Her life is amazing! How I’d love to be her shadow for even just a week of her travels! (glad they got rid of the pig fat though, eww)

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      22 July 2010 at 9:47 am

      Ha! More palm trees than pigs around anyway, I’d guess…

      Log in to Reply
  11. kaos.geo says:
    22 July 2010 at 9:03 am

    Sounds like a person with passion for what she does. :-)
    That is very inspiring!

    I must say that I LOVED this interview. It makes me think a lot about the attitude one needs to have to interact with wildly different cultures.
    And the openness.(sp?)

    I am usually very prejudiced towards extreme islamic culture (I must clarify I say EXTREME, I respect and appreciate moderate and tolerant islamists and believe me this is not an oxymoron)
    But anyway I get really reactive about this, specially because of gender issues, and the article made me think about how a woman is empowered in different ways inside the culture.

    Sorry if I rambled too much :P

    Log in to Reply
    • Alyssa says:
      22 July 2010 at 9:50 am

      Not at all, Kaos, and I know what you mean. It’s a big stretch that Trygve’s doing, and she seems to do it with grace.

      But will say, just in case anyone else comes along, that we probably shouldn’t continue the thread on religion, as is always the case here.

      Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

From NST at Twitter

  • "Cult Shop: the perfumer drawing on her Māori heritage" (financial times) https://t.co/9HmkvBfcvm,
  • Imaginary Authors' limited edition Decisions, Decisions from 2020 is available again for a limited time… https://t.co/CL55QrsyTB,
  • "Scent-a Fe: New Mexico could be first state with official aroma" (guardian) https://t.co/zt7NB3n20L,
  • "The Smell of Magic: A new crop of scents reference long-held beliefs about the connection between perfume and the… https://t.co/6OeiuFOYtf,
  • "Can 'perfume regression' solve your stress problem? I put it to the test" (cosmopolitan via yahoo) https://t.co/SRtzlLLFd4,

Browse by...

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

January 2023
December 2022
November 2022
October 2022
September 2022
August 2022

Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

4 January ~ damage poll
4 February ~ winter reading poll

TBA April ~ swap meet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2023 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.