Then, in our madcap Saks round, [Luca] Turin randomly sprayed on a Guerlain eau de toilette that, he said, was the only thing he wore for years. I loved it. Eau de Guerlain is pure, unsweet citrus, with a lingering light verbena scent on the drydown. "If you want citrus, there is simply nothing better out there," his review says. Bergamot and citrus, also the dominant notes in Eau Sauvage, are apparently what I want.
— Food writer Corby Kummer goes shopping for a new fragrance in A Rose by Another Name at Technology Review.
Oh my stars and garter! Kummer mentions that “Chypre” translates to English as cypress. Do you know, for my entire life, I have always, unthinkingly and unblinkingly, believed chypre to mean “cypher”. As in a secret code, as in spies. As in dangerous women with a pistol strapped to their stockinged thigh, or sleek men who can seduce the plutocrat’s wife and copy the nuclear codes in one swift moment.
I am hilariously embarrassed. I always loved the idea that chypres were, in their complicated way, slightly menacing, and to be dismissed or ignored at one’s peril. It seemed to fit so well with what I felt about those formidable bergmot-oakmoss-and-labdanum beauties. But it just means cypress, huh? Hmmm. Cypress trees are nice. Pointy.
I think I prefer my definition.
Chanterais, you can keep some of your mystery! It’s not “cypress” the tree, so much as it is “Cyprus” the place–the Mediterranean island. Ancient home to perfume. And, um, other stuff.
I absolutely love your own translation of Chypre, it does seem really fitting! I think the word means “Cyprus” though, as in the Mediterranean island, no?
Yes, cyprus, not cypress.
And for more information that you probably ever wanted on the etymology of ‘Cyprus’:
http://www.cyprus.com/cyprus-general-info-ancient-names-of-cyprus.php
I’m laughing with you because it always reads as “cypher” to me too. I have to stop myself before I say it because I’m always sure I’ll pronounce it that way!
my vote goes with Chanterais…..I’m all for the secret agents with pistols tangled up in their undergarments. Dangerous business that.
I like that image, too. I kind of feel that way when I wear Une Rose Chypre. I also think of Katherine Hepburn in a severe suit and fabulous shoes. Good bones, well tailored lines, and no-nonsense accessories.
I knew it referred to Cyprus, but my understanding is that it refers to a particular oakmoss which grows there and that is what gives chypres their characteristic earthy scent.
Yes, I believe it’s Cyprus, not Cypress as author wrote. details details lost in translation
Homophones. They are notoriously difficult.
Great article – what fun to go sniffing with LT! Or to have a tour of Robertet’s labs and smell things like hedione on their own.
Does sound fun!
Aw, that’s a shame, the error in translation. I have enjoyed Kummer’s writing on food for years. I think maybe we can just blame the editor here…or maybe the lack of fact checkers for the MIT publication?
Interesting to hear the proposal that foodies are into citrus fragrances. Is it a cleansing of the palate thing? Why not herbs? (Oh, I’m just lobbing out thoughts without thinking much.)
How did I miss Turin’s theory of vibration to explain how so few receptors do so much? I totally love it! And it can be reconciled with his love of music. Hmmm hmmm hmmm. If only I could go off to Cyprus for a while to think…
I do wonder if more foodies are into citrus than other people. I mean, it’s a very popular category among people in general.
“Unsweet citrus”? He’s gotta be kidding. Of the four unisex eaux, Eau de Guerlain is certainly the most sweet to me and therefore my least favourite. But, hey, different strokes! I much prefer the orangey sunshine deliciousness of Eau de Fleur de Cedrat. Eau de Cologne Imperiale and Eau du Coq are also not sweet.
I adore it, and don’t find it sweet at all — more mossy & crisp.
And yes — different strokes!
Thanks for the link to a really engaging article! It’s interesting to think about how a love of food and cooking relates to the love of scent and fragrance.
I love Eau Sauvage- looks like I should give Eau de Guerlain a try!
Yes…although despite the slant of the article, I don’t find it any more “modern” than Eau Sauvage.
I work in the perfume dept. Coincidentally last Sun. my partner and I were trying various fragrances of this ilk. We discovered that Escale de Portofino is almost a dead ringer for Monsieur de Givenchy. For those of you out there who like this category, we recommend trying those along with the afore-mentioned Guerlain Eau Imperiale and Dior Eau Sauvage.
Thanks for the tip. I’m still on the lookout for the perfect refreshing citrus. The opening of Escale a Portofino is pretty perfect, but it’s so darned fleeting!