I take advantage of the cold-weather months and pour on amber-rich, resinous, incense-y, musky, and powdery perfumes (known as “gasp-inducers” in hot weather) but I also use perfumes to help me forget winter woes — my flowerless garden, chill-induced headaches, spark-filled hair, and dry-as-bone skin (citrus and florals…come hither). My top-ten list of winter fragrances is, of course, personal, and far from definitive; these are simply perfumes I’m enjoying this winter.
I usually wear “sharp”/herbal amber fragrances such as Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and Tom Ford Amber Absolute, but it’s nice to have a classic amber scent handy as well. Enter Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 (with notes of patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, and musk). Like many amber perfumes of its type, Ambre 114’s soft and sweet aromas transport me to a particular “scene” (a snowy twilight landscape viewed from inside a warm, dim room) and state of mind (contented…but nostalgic too). I suppose that means amber scents make me feel safe and comfortable and, perhaps, remind me of someone time has erased from my life.
Aesop Mystra is bold — and a bit severe. Mystra’s mastic, labdanum and frankincense notes smell “ancient” and ceremonious, like offerings to a deity. Since I’ve been accused by friends of acting in a, a-hem, “divine” manner at times, I offer up Mystra to myself.
Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato is simple and “pure”: vetiver and amber combined in an interesting way. Whenever I wear it, I always attract attention — from men, women, children and animals. I’ve never met anyone who doesn’t like it (and if I did, I’d probably think: “defective nose”).
Chanel Pour Monsieur was one of the first scents I wore — in high school. I still like the perfume, even after its many reformulations. Pour Monsieur wears well in any season, but in winter its moss and citrus give me a mental boost during long, wet, cold, gray spells.
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Pour Homme is a wonderful fougère fragrance, not too sleek or modern for its own good. Rive Gauche is a pleasing all-around/all-situation scent with notes of rosemary, rose geranium, lavender and patchouli. Though stamped with an Yves Saint Laurent logo, Rive Gauche qualifies as a “cheap thrill” at $46 for 75 ml. Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité!
I like to wear powdery fragrances in winter. Two that I love now are the lime-rich i Profumi di Firenze Agrumi di Sicilia and Serge Lutens Chergui (honey, tobacco, hay!) Powder’s not for everyone, I know, but here at Now Smell This, Ms. Angela Alamut and Mr. Kevin Habanita-Chergui cavort on a cloudy-with-powder conga line, joined by our favorite Perfume Power-Powders.
Santa Maria Novella Marescialla reminds many people of furniture polish with its resinous-lemon-y fragrance. I fondly remember the lemon-scented furniture wax used in my home when I was little. Though I hated many chores (cutting grass, doing dishes) I loved, and LOVE, waxing furniture. Marescialla makes me feel clean and lustrous.
Boadicea the Victorious produces an army of perfumes (currently: 35). Of the handful of Boadicea the Victorious perfumes I’ve tried so far, Invigorating is my favorite and makes me think of summer with its rich notes of syrupy orange and yuzu, rock rose, jasmine, and rose geranium.
I reviewed Comme des Garçons Monocle Scent Two: Laurel just last week. Its notes vary between spring (green laurel leaf), summer (marigold) and autumn/winter (smoky frankincense); Laurel is like a haiku poem that can’t decide which season to celebrate.
Thanks to a tip from NST commenter Carlos, I got my hands on a full bottle of long-discontinued Comptoir Sud Pacifique Thé Eau de Parfum — perhaps, my favorite perfume EV-ER. Apart from smelling of mellow sandalwood, black tea, lotus and Southeast Asian incense, Thé conjures up happy years for me, and, in particular, a sensational trip to Thailand where I doused myself with Thé daily.
Okay; I highlighted eleven fragrances since beloved Comptoir Sud Pacifique Thé is no longer with us. Enjoy the season!
For more wonderful winter fragrances, see Bois de Jasmin :: Grain de Musc :: Perfume Posse :: Perfume Smellin’ Things.
Note: top image is Pine Trees via Wikimedia Commons.
I’m glad you mention Mystra. But it is deeply sinister. Having bought it, I don’t wear it often. I love the scent, but not actually in myself. As a room spray it would be even odder. Could one use it to scent love letters? Hardly. Repel moths?
Still, it’s very out there, and pleasingly un-mainstream.
Annemarie: love both the Aesop fragrances…unusual.
How about spraying it on a hankerchief?
Great review, Kevin. I, too, enjoy polishing furniture with that lovely lemony furniture wax. And congrats on finding some CSP The. I know that was a long-lost beloved and can just imagine how lovely it must be. I’ve been wearing lots of heady florals and musks this season with interludes of Chinatown and Sweet Oriental Dream. Tonight, the Arba Wardat’s still going strong, however, so that’s what I’ll wear to bed on this freezing evening, dreaming of beautiful deserts and their secret oasis of lush greens and flowers when my head hits the pillow.
Abscent: another lemon-loving neat freak! HA!
Thanks for the lovely list! Ambre Sultan was my autumn favorite and Serge Noir is keeping me warm, one of the best winter scents for me. Aqua di Sale is also a marine scent good for winter! Strangly enough you would expect it to be good during summer but it’s not.
air: sometimes REALLY “Salty” fragrances are best in cool weather.
thank you of your post
We must use warm Scent in winter season or cold weather .
and Best warm Scent is Amber .
thank you agine
Iranperfumer: you’re welcome
Congratulations on your bottle of Thé!! Vetiver Ambrato sounds strange and interesting, I’ll seek it out and check for a reaction from my dog. 🙂
Helle: your dog will LOVE it, I guarantee…put a drop behind his ears.
Looking through my window and seeing the white blanket of snow my bottle of Fleur du Male fits nicely in the scenery. The scent evokes wintery freshness with a promise of spring. Fleur du Male makes me want to go outside an take a stroll in the snow
Sitting in front of the fireplace I have a hard time choosing between Femenite du Bois and Coze. Both want to make me stay in and cuddle up and read a book (on my iPad?).
How about a smell appropriate for a walk by an icy sea shore? Salty wind, clean freshness, remote accents of citrus ginger and wood? And maybe vetiver?
CB I Hate Perfumes has several variations on snow and beach scents. I can’t think of one of the top of my head that contains all of those notes, but I’ve found that the water perfumes layer nicely. Some good ones to try include Winter 1972, Eternal Return, Mr. Hulot’s Holiday, and Walking in the Air which is his snow scent.
Goddess: I’d probably choose Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel, or maybe even Chanel Sycomore, which, the more I think about it would be perfect on a wintry beach.
Second Fleurs de Sel as a great winter beach scent.
How about Hermes Eau des Merveilles? Salty ambergris, woods and vetiver? Perfect for a winter’s beach walk.
Sel de Vetiver would be bracing.
I find it hard to connect a scent with this activity – it seems to me like the cold and wind wipe out everything olfactory, but (lightbulb appears over head) how about one of the ambergris scents that Kevin recommends above?
Since two weeks now we have here -10 up to -15 C degrees and I realise that I cannot enjoy too much perfume. Atleast when outside I cannot smell a thing. It needs really strong and amber fragrances to keep warm. For me it is Lexington Avenue.
We don’t have “real” winter here in Florida (our whole raison d’etre) but when it does cool off, I like Chinatown too. Since it’s cooler now am enjoying Bois des Iles (good all the time), B#9 Silver Factory and dear old Bandit.
Nile Goddess: if you find that frag, let me know. TDC Sel de Vetiver?
So true, Suzanne. During our two weeks of cold weather, I was merrily spritzing on the ones in my collection that are no-go during most of year: Kenzo Jungle l’elephant, Rochas Femme, Amber/Ambre/Ambra anything. It was heaven!
Oh, Kevin. CSP The? Instant lemming.
Aparatchick: didn’t you hear that ALL existing bottles of The are earmarked for ME…indeed, an international agreement has been signed. SORRY!
Winter in Ontario has been pretty darn cold this year. My most loved winter warmers have been: Chaos, Gold, OJ Woman, Feminite du Bois, Sacrebleu, Theorema, Cashmere Mist, Bois des Iles, Parfum Sacre, and M.Micallef Winter.
Confirming Theorema + winter as a true winner! -9 here today, took it for a long walk in the almost sunny weather.
Ditto for Theorema. I’m wearing it right now as the sleet and ice pelt the house. Last winter it was Angel.
I’m testing Donna Karan Wenge right now and I don’t know that I could tell it apart from Black Cashmere in a blind test. It is a little woodier in the drydown, but it is also disappearing rather quickly. Wenge is an EdT, part of the series in the black bottles which includes the re-issued Black Cashmere. I have two of the original EdP in the “rock” bottles and I wonder if the new one is appreciably different. Anybody tried both?
Second Parfum Sacre for winter.
I love a bunch of your winter favorites! I’ll have to check out the ones I haven’t tried yet. I just got a mini of Theorema, which I’m trying for the first time–love it.
And isn’t it a cute little bottle?
Any other favorite scents that you love that I should try?
Very cute! Pain in the neck to open, though. My other winter favorites are Tolu, Noir Epices, and L’Air du Desert Marocain. And right now I’m trying Chergui, which might join my list.
Oh, and Coco! Drained my sample and just ordered a FB.
The only one on your list that I’ve tried is the Mystra, and although I don’t think it contains oud, it’s very oud-y on me — that pleasantly medicinal, Band-Aid-y effect. Doesn’t last long, but I do like it!
Lilydale: it lasts all day on me…but I pour it on!
Got some idea they did a roll on EDP, or some such? From memory it’s only 15 mls or something, and quite expensive. I agree that the EDT doesn’t last long unless you use a lot. But can I turn up to the office doused in Mystra?
It’s the height of summer where I live, not really Mystra weather you might think, but we had a blessedly cool evening yesterday and I wore it as I went for a walk. Pretty good.
You’re killing me with the CSP Tea. Killing me. I’ve never smelled it, and I suppose I don’t want to now, since I can’t have more.
I also really need to smell that Aesop, I bet I’d love it.
March: I’m SURE you’d love that one.
Great picks! This is my first winter of perfume and, like Suzanne, I live in an area that doesn’t really have much winter. I’ve been sampling many amber fragrances recently and I really like Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute. I also like his Tobacco Vanille and think of it as more of a winter fragrance than a summer one with it’s rich, deep tobacco/honey/vanilla scent. I also really like Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe and Cuir Ottoman. Dear Daisy sent me a sample of Botrytis and I expect that, Daphne, and Epic Woman to get heavy usage while it is still cool. Daphne will probably be something to enjoy at home since many people seem to find it strange and off-putting. I also reach for extraits of my favourite scents (vintage Shalimar) during the winter, as well as Theorema and Black Cashmere as previously mentioned.
For Texas, we’ve actually had a colder-than-normal winter – with several days in the 40s, although those are tempered with days in the 60s and 70s. For the cold days, I’ve been loving Back to Black, Bois des Iles, Brit Red, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Natori, Labdanum de Seville, and Kenzo Amour. For the warmer days, it’s been Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27, Vanille Galante, and Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere.
On the one hand, I feel like my cold weather scents (which I have quite a few of) don’t get enough of a work out; on the other hand, at least I don’t have to completely abandon my warm weather scents for months on end.
I’m in Texas, too. I wish I had another perfume buddy to go shopping with. I’m also a Buffy fanatic and I love your image of Willow.
Oohh.. BtVS and perfume? And Texas? I don’t get to perfume shop in person that much during the school year, but I’m always up for it in the summer? I’m in the Houston area – seeing as Texas is huge, I don’t know how close that is to you?
I’m in San Antonio, so about three hours away on IH10. I’m sure Houston is much better for perfume shopping than SA, but after driving there by myself last year to see Bruce Springsteen I swore I would never drive in Houston again. Maybe you could pick me up in Katy. 😉
I don’t blame you for not wanting to drive in Houston – and I live in Katy, so that would be perfect. The Galleria area is perfect for sniffing trips – but my non-perfume-fiend friends are only so patient, so I don’t get to add on a trip to the Hermes & Cartier boutiques or any of the specialty shops that I’ve heard tell of down in River Oaks.
There must be more of us from Texas around here – we should arrange a Houston or Dallas mini-Sniffapalooza sometime during the summer.
Definitely. I have one perfumista friend here and we occasionally spend a full day visiting our fave fragrance departments, but SA is kind of lame. My dad is in Dallas and I need to get up there for a sniffing tour and try out Le Labo’s exclusive at the source. You and I seem to enjoy a many of the same scents and I would love for you to test out some of my new favourites. Contact me? I’m julia941 at yahoo and MUA.
Great article, Kevin! I can’t ever say enough wonderful things about YSL Rive Gauche. I love both the men’s and ladies’ versions. I frequently wear my husband’s Chanel pour monsieur, as well.
TwoPeas: yes, they are great scents but I never smell them on anyone…must be Euro hits?
As for Chanel PM – it so fleeting! I doused my boyfriend in it heavily – and couldn’t smell it on him in an hour. I even poured it on his suits and coats at night while he was asleep – but nothing there too. There was no even a hint of PM smell in the wardrobe the next morning. Such a shame. I wanted to date someone who wore Pour Monsieur o much. But not everyone is that lucky…
Great article, Kevin! This winter has been so cold and stressful I’ve ignored anything with a hint of green in it, but I love Pour Monsieur on my husband – and may just have to wear it myself today. 🙂
alltheprettythings: thanks, and do wear some Pour Monsieur..these days I don’t think it would be considered too masculine at all.
Thanks for the great article, Kevin. But I can’t stop staring at that beautiful japanese screen long enough to gather my thoughts to comment. Lovely, mesmerizing image choice!
Agreed, it’s gorgeous!
MJR: LOVE that screen.
You pick great images, Kevin. I have referred to your use of the blue snake in the L’Heure Bleue review many times. I don’t know if it is because I read your review several times when firs trying it, but that is L’Heure Bleue to me. So are the yellowing ivory piano keys from your Jicky review and the hilariously doctored image you chose for Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver. Thanks!
Julia…thank YOU!…I enjoy trying to find the right images for perfumes. It can be HARD sometimes.
Julia,
Clearly your mileage will vary, but I’ve been wearing Daphne quite a bit recently (I love this red-headed stepchild of a scent!), even to work. The guys I work with appear to enjoy it as I’ve had many positive comments when I wear it. Perhaps it’s one of those scents men enjoy on women more than women enjoy on other women. Take Daph out for a spin now and then. You might be surprised who she makes friends with. 🙂
Oops, I’m technically challenged sometimes. This was supposed to be in response to Julia’s comment above. Julia, I hope you find me down here.
My bottle of Daphne is scheduled for delivery today and I am so glad I finally ordered it. I’ve heard that they made a limited number of bottles and didn’t want to let it slip away. It has been at the top of my list since Angela reviewed it. I’ve been working with a sample and my husband likes it. My boss can detect tuberose (in a bad way) on a scarf that I wore with Fracas two weeks ago, so I probably won’t wear it to work. She actually backed away holding a hand over her nose. Clearly indolic flowers are not her thing. I think you are totally right about men appreciating things on women differently than other women. The lady at Saks told me that men love Bvulgari Omnia, which I find pleasant enough but I’m not madly in love with it. My shop owner actually liked it on a card so I went ahead and bought a bottle and the SA was right. I always get compliments when I wear it. When I first opened it I sprayed a little in the air with the first few pumps to get it going and my husband walked in and said, “Something smells great in here!” If only he had that reaction to Epic Woman and insisted that I must have a full bottle as soon as possible. 😉
The people in my office love the Daphne too… I couldn’t have been more surprised.
Good morning, Kevin! You finally got some of the CSP Thé!!!! Great! And you’ve once again made many of us schlubs mourn what we’re missing out on.
I love learning about others’ faves, which are often new to me. I only know a couple on your list: Agrumi Amari is a nice citrus, but uh-oh!… I gave away my sample of Vetiver Ambrato just recently. Should I see a doctor?
Drat, you’ve made the Boadicea sound REALLY nice; it has so many of my favorite notes. I’d been managing to avoid that line up till now.
My top recent winter loves:
Epic Woman
HdP Tubéreuse 3 L’Animale
Mona diOrio Jabu
Micallef Gaiac (SOTD – this is SO good!)
ELdO Vierges et Toreros
… and perpetual standbys Timbuktu & Noir Épices.
Joe: interesting list! I’m still thanking Saint Carlos each day for the The tip!
Great list, Kevin. I’ve got to get out my Ambre 114 sample…and there are so many SMNs I need to try, including now Marescialla.
This winter for me is all about Tolu, Attrape-Coeur, Daphne, Black Aoud, and Songes edp. And vintage Organza Indecence, which gets worn sparingly because when it’s gone it’s gone. And it’s almost cold enough to re-try Ambre Narguile…
Kevin: That Mystra sounds so interesting! I love labdanum. My fav winter fragrances are Chanel Coco & Coromandel, Bal a Versailles, Donna Karan (Signature), Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Musc (gorgeous labdanum!) and Tabac Aurea. But these days I need some “sunny” warmth so I’ve been dipping into my small decants of Timbuktu & Noir Epices!!!
But I like powders in winter too – my fav winter powder is Montale’s Powder Flowers, and now the Amaranthine.
Do check out Aesop website if you haven’t already done so ( www. aesop.net.au ). It’s pretty fun. Both their fragrances are at the stranger, darker end of the perfume spectrum, esp. Mystra, and good on Aesop for that, I say.
Love Coco, by the way.
My two clear favourites this winter have been 31 Rue Cambon and my old friend Ambre Narguile. They never fail to make me smile.
Felanilla is another cozy scent that I discovered a few weeks ago, and Baghari with its orange and nose-tickling aldehydes is pure joy in the winter. I love Cuir de Russie and Bandit on bright, crisp days. Plus I’ve been exploring some other chypres – Profumo by Aqua di Parma, Jubilation 25 and even Mitsouko have all been getting a fair bit of my attention.
The only one on the list I’ve tried is SL Chergui, which is one of the very few SLs that actually work on my skin. Favorites this winter (so far…still 3 months to go in frigid MN) have been Bois des Iles, Lubin Idole, Une Rose Chypree, Lyric, PdE Ambre Russe (think I need this one), and SDV layered with Bois de Paradis. Oh, and POTL LetE, when I remember it.
boojum: Chergui was a surprise “hit” for me…I tried it once and thought “OK”…next time I wore it I was charmed.
I’m joining you and Angela on that powdery congo line! Chergui is one of my winter favorites (although it’s also good in summer, where it really blooms) and I fear to sample its reformulation. Pour Monsieur is also my husband’s winter favorite, and it smells absolutely delicious on him. I will really have to try the Vetiver Ambrato as vetiver is a favorite of mine and I love the idea of a warm vetiver. Also, I really have to thank you for reviewing the CdG Monocle Laurel. I ordered a sample and am absolutely loving it! Don’t think I would even have thought about sampling it without your review. I love the combination of herbal coolness and a touch of warm salty amber and incense. You’ve broadened my horizons with a lovely surprise and I can definitely see a full bottle of this in my future.
Jirish: welcome to the conga line! And I’m SO glad you like Laurel.
Hi all,
I love to drag the heavy hitters out in winter-SF is an easy climate to wear wintery scents…… Some of my winter faves are: SL’s Daim Blond, the suede notes separate and develop beautifully, SL MKK, sometimes I mix it with Santa Maria Novella’s Patchouli (I wait an hour before heading out, I don’t want to knock anyone over). Other winter faves are Chanel’s No 19-perfect for the cool drizzly meloncholy weather SF brings along in winter, and Shiseido’s FdB, in extrait. It is heaven, esp. when a storm is moving in off the coast. For dressy occasions, I like Le Labo’s Iris 39, this is so femme and elegant, with lovely iris and violet notes.
If I do want a summer feel, my latest craze is Le Labo’s Bergamotte 22-beautiful light green floral with incredible staying power.
Wow a whole HOUR before you leave the house? I wish I could do that. I am always running around like a chicken without a head in the mornings. 🙂
Yep, it’s early, but I’m up at 5:30 am, so it actually has a few hours to burn off before work. I’m extra careful, work is “supposed” to be scent-free, Angel is automatically out except for weekends and holidays.
ps-There’s no such thing as rushing around in my house, my 20 lb cats are constantly underfoot, so I’d be on the floor.
ST: Isn’t FdB extrait great? Love it, but I’m hoarding the little I have. Also, that’s the second mention of Le Labo Iris this week that has me salivating. I must get a sample!
I LOVE FdB, it’s so comforting and warm. I found the bottle of extrait on the ‘bay (total score). I RIPPED the box open when I got it. My postman, and husband thought I’d lost my mind…. 🙂
BTW, I can send a sample of LL Iris 39 if you’d like.
Is the extrait by Shiseido?
Hi Julia,
Sorry I didn’t check back sooner. Yes, the extrait is by Shiseido.
Ooh… I just finally tried my decant of Iris 39 and I love it. It might be my favorite iris so far and it’s perfect for today – rainy, the weather is in flux and the temperature is cooling.
I love it too! I didn’t like it at all for the first few wearings and then I had a change of heart…..
I wanna try my Shiseido FdB in SF tooooooo 🙂
Wow. Can you believe I’ve not tried 6 out of your 11 choices? I’m starting to slip here. HA! The Aesop sounds right up my alley. So happy you got that bottle of THE. I had that search saved for many months. 🙂
Carlos: yep, I’m FOREVER GRATEFUL! (and can’t believe you have not tried SIX…by now I would have thought you’d have bought them all, reconsidered, sold half on eBay, and were sending samples to friends with the rest!)
I love Keiko’s Genie De Bois for winter…the spiciness always surprises me for a scent which is usually listed as a ‘violet’ …not sure if I’ve ever smelled the violet in it! But love it all the same
Elise, I love that one too, and haven’t tried it in the winter. I’m going to try it next week!
Now I’m obsessed…..CSP The edp??? I own a bottle of the gorgeous and discontinued Ecume de The but The??? Must seek this one out 🙁
I’ve been enjoying Natori, Amaranthine, OJ Tiare, Fumerie Turque, and many Guerlain l’Art et la Matieres these cold days.
Happy Winter!
lovethescents: Ecume de The is still being sold (it’s the reformulation of original The)…you can easily get bottles of that (at a discount even).
Winter favorites:
Fille En Aiguilles with a shot of Ambre Sultan
SSS Amber Noir, Winter Woods, Tabac Aurea, Encens Tranquille (hoarding my prereformulation bottle)
Esteban Sensuelle Russie
Montale SOD
DK Black Cashmere
Caswell-Massey Hot Stuff
DSH Robe De Zibeline
Love Amber Noir and Encens Tranquille. Do you know anything about how the current formulation smells? I think Fireside and Fireside Intense have also been reformulated, which makes me sad.
I haven’t smelled any of the testers for the various incarnations she has been working on. I hope it stays close to how it was originally, too.
I’ve really enjoyed wearing YSL Rive Gauche (elegant yet cozy rosy aldehyde) and Chanel 18 (warm sunshine on my skin) this winter. Today, the temps dipped significantly and Nasomatto Duro rose admirably to the occasion! I have never smelled anything like it EVER. Love it!
I usually go all amber and incensy in the winter as well. Been on a Geisha Noire kick for 2 months now. (Did a stint of Geisha Rouge around Christmas, mixed with CdG Avignon – and my middle son said I smelled just like Christmas! Mission accomplished!) Tried some L’Artisan Leau Ambre Extreme (sp?) in November – pretty good. Also been using my samples of Tauer Incense Extreme (smells a lot like Avignon to me) and then also my old friend Regina Harris’s Frankencense Myrrh Rose Maroc, which my work BFF says makes me smell like an old lady, but I love it!
I’ve been experimenting with layering Musc Ravaguer this winter. It’s pretty good with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Cafe Noir. I have dinner plans with friends tomorrow. It’s supposed to snow–it only really does that a couple of times a winter here–and I’m thinking of MR with Oud Lacquer. Will I kill somebody? Will they die happy?
Kill somebody?? In my mind, Musc Rav is a total pussycat of a comfort scent! Who could be killed by that? 😉
You don’t know my friends!! 🙂
Musc Ravaguer is another one where I’ve made mistakes with how much I’ve put on. It doesn’t smell skanky on me exactly, more just kind of fatty, if that makes sense. I like the way it can add depth to other scents, but I was just kind of wondering if oud and fat (for lack of a better word–I wish I had a better vocabulary for what I mean) together might freak out the fainthearted.
Truly, where application is concerned, I’m a danger to myself and others!
Me, too! I think I may be a little anosmic to muscs, I can’t smell any of the Narciso Rodriguez line, but I think Musc Rav is warm and comfy and not at all beastly and only very slightly animalic and that is only the juice – the oil is super tame. Jicky is more animalic than Musc Rav. I also don’t find MKK all that beastly though my kids did say something about dog sweat, so maybe it’s me.
–I also don’t find MKK all that beastly though my kids did say something about dog sweat, so maybe it’s me.–
That’s really funny! 🙂
The little darlings….
I understand what you mean about the “fatty” smell. Are you using the oil? Sometimes I smell the carrier oil more than the fragrance. I haven’t tried layering it with anything, but maybe I will. Take that back. I was on a Roucel high and I applied “L” by Lolita Lempicka over it, and that was a pretty powerful combination. He doesn’t really do subtle. I do add a drop of MKK to things that I think need a little more depth, especially some of the very clean anemic “musk” fragrances I have.
Julia: so very interesting. I love Musc Rav, but MKK… I swapped for a very small decant that arrived last weekend. I wanted to try it again since I had only sampled it once. I’m not sure it will ever work for me; I get much of the nice warm musc from it, but also wafting up come bits that remind me of the worst type of “dirty socks” odor. It’s that pungency — a bit like overripe cheese — that makes me think I could never fully “wear” the fragrance, or even layer with it. We’ll see. (Also, I owe you an email, which I promise I will get to.)
Fluffy: I don’t know how strong Oud Lacquer is (I’m dying to try it), but if your friends tend to be fainthearted, maybe you can enjoy the combo more personally by just applying in the hollow of your neck and decolleté so as not to disturb others? Do they ever compliment you for smelling great?! 😀
Thank you, Kevin, so much for this wonderful article! Ever since you wrote about how you spend new year’s eve I wished you’d write something else about your winter habits. It looks like this season suits your personality and inspires you to write especially beautiful reviews. (I always make a cup of hot chocolate or latte when I see that you wrote smth new, and read it at least twice)
Wax-polishing the furniture is also the only thing I like about cleaning the house. And amber and sandalwood are the best cold weather scents in my opinion.
This january it’s -30 C here in wintry Russia. I’m very much enjoying Eau and Elixir des Merveilles this time of year. I wonder wich one of them do you prefer (if any?). I also wanted to know if you believe that any of the fragrances on the market do contain real ambergris and witch fragrance in you opinion smells most like it? Thank you!
Veronika: thank you! You know, I’m sure there are some fragrances out there with real ambergris…a few scents that have noticeable ambergris (to me) are YSL Kouros and Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan…try those together and look for a similar clean, milky musk note…also there’s By Kilian Back to Black (ambergris mixed with lots of other notes) and Olivier Durbano Turquoise. Supposedly, faux ambergris can be very good quality so go to a good “perfume” pharmamacy that sells herbs, oils, and ask if they have “ambergris” to smell. I should look up a passage from the novel “Moby Dick” where the sailor/narrator describes the scent of ambergris. Good luck…and stay warm!
I came across my bottle of A*men Pure Coffee last week and it has became my conforting bedtime scent. Winter in Madrid is cold and dry and has changed my perception of this fragance that I bought couple springs ago
Racine: Madrid and Pure Coffee are a perfect match.
Hi Kevin! What an enticing line up! I really enjoyed the article. I’d especially like to try the Vetiver Ambrato, Invigorating, Agrumi di Sicilia, and Laurel (your recent review of the latter really snagged my attention).
Lately, I am frequently reaching for Shaal Nur, Havana Vanille, Niki de Saint Phalle (for the chypre moods), and Timbuktu. Oh, and my dwindling decant of Amaranthine. Time to think about a bottle to my wardrobe.
Lavender has also entered my life, in the form of Gris Clair. I am simply bowled over by that one! (And here I thought Chergui was the only Lutens I could love.) Now I’m wanting to delve into lavenders – especially the warmer or more unusual types. Ideas, anyone?
PdN Nicolai pour Homme is a wonderful lavender – I do not find it too masculine, either. And thanks for putting Gris Clair on my to-try list!
Hi Haunani! Kiki by Vero Profumo is an unusual, very pretty carmel-ly lavendar. So far it only comes in a parfum concentration, but supposedly a new edp version is on the way this spring. It’s very, very different from Gris Clair if I’m remembering what Gris Clair smells like, but it might be worth a try if you’re looking for all sorts of unusual!
H – my favorite lavender (not a favorite note, mind you) is Andy Tauer’s Reverie au Jardin. I also recently got a sample of SMN’s Lavanda Ambrata, and while I haven’t given it a thorough test yet, I was surprised to find that I *wanted* to test it. It’s simple but pleasant…worth a try, for sure!
Thanks, all! I appreciate the recs!
I recommend Rochas Man, Caron Pour Un Homme and Penhaligon’s Lavandula :).
Jicky! The ultimate lavender + vanilla.
Or Bond No9 New Haarlem which is a slightly more unusual lavender and coffee.
Kevin, thanks very much for this enticing list and the soulful winter picture! I truly HATE the cold, dark and gray, but it is ALMOST worth it to be able to pour on amber, patchouli, incense, and all those rich, deep, skanky, leathery vintage scents: Theorema, Vol de Nuit, Coze, L’Air du Desert Marocain, Messe de Minuit, vintage Lanvin and Schiaparelli. And one can always lighten up with SL Bois de Violette and La Myrrhe, if necessary. Most of me is suffering from the cold, but my nose is VERY happy!
Nozknoz:: thanks..and spring WILL be here pretty soon, right?
Nice list – I have only smelled the Histoires Amber, though. It is definitely nice. Luckyscent just sent a sampler email that is ALL this kind of spicy wintery stuff! I’m doomed.
I have been wearing a lot of the Tom Fords, Oud Wood and Bois Marocain in particular; SOTD is the spicy Aurora from Farmacia ss Annunziata; Theorema; Maroc Pour Elle; l’Heure Bleue; Black Cashmere; hmmm, I think I wear something different every day!
Tama – I was drooling all over the email, then got to the bottom to see the sampler pack and….yep. Doom.
Be brave, sistahs.
I went and looked at the NaN line more closely and…talked myself out of it. Sounds gooey and sweet, just what I don’t need. Ahhh. 😀
Unfortunately, I sometimes like gooey and sweet so I caved. I’ll keep you posted.
But then I cave to almost every LS sampler pack, so….
Tama: I have to go try the TF Marocain…it was supposed to arrive here in Feb.
I’ll let you know if I end up with a FB and I’ll send you a sample. It’s a bit sweeter/warmer than the Oud, which I have a split of.
My winter perfume is PG L’Eau Rare Matale. Winter here is soggy and dark rather than actually cold, but no.6 does make things a little brighter.