The Eaux de Fleurs collection is the latest from Kenzo. They are starting off this year with a trio, Eau de Fleur de Thé (tea flower), Eau de Fleur de Soie (silk flower) and Eau de Fleur de Magnolia (you can figure that one out), and they're planning to add a new flower to the series every year. Like the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria collection, these are meant as a "return to nature", and they're advertised as "subtle" waters based on flowers picked from Japanese trees.
Eau De Fleur de Thé is meant as a tribute to "the tea flower". It was developed by perfumer Aurelien Guichard, and is described as "a floral infusion with green tea and musky notes". It's a slightly smokier (although only briefly; I wouldn't call it a smoky scent in general), more-tea-less-citrus variation on Bvlgari's Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. The base is clean musk, the floral notes are sheer and indistinct, and I'd call it a unisex. It's very wearable, and while I wouldn't call it wildly unusual, it would be perfect for anyone looking for a reasonably priced summer-y green tea scent with decent lasting power (for a light tea fragrance, mind you) and without too much sweetness. It was my favorite of the three at first, but over subsequent wears the Magnolia (see below) has won out.
Eau De Fleur de Soie was developed by perfumer Jean Jacques. It is both literally and figuratively the pink one of the bunch, and so regular readers can already guess that it was my least favorite. It smells like a sheer fruity floral, rather berry-ish but not at all too sweet, with perhaps a touch of rhubarb or some other tart fruit. I don't know what the silk flower smells like, but this didn't smell any more distinctive than your average sheer pink fruity floral: just less sweet. It's perfectly wearable as is, but I found it greatly improved by a light layer of the Eau De Fleur de Thé sprayed on top.
Eau De Fleur de Magnolia is described as "a luminous floral with citrus notes", and it was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. It has a brisk citrus-y opening and a golden aura that matches the color of the juice. Like the others, it's more transparent than not, but it has a lovely creamy, almost-smoky warmth to the dry down — it would be perfect on a cool spring evening. I'm not sure if it is going to please someone looking for that perfect magnolia soliflore, but it's easily the most unusual of this trio.
The packaging on these is lovely — the pictures really don't do them justice. The labels and the slightly-wavy bottles are simple but attractive, and if you don't rip them to shreds before you figure it out, as I did, the outer boxes fold out from the side to show floral images on the inside. Very nicely done.
More reviews of the trio: March at Perfume Posse, Octavian at 1000 Fragrances.
The Kenzo Eaux de Fleurs collection fragrances are available in 50 ml Eau de Toilette.
I should test the magnolia one. It sounds promising, although it does not sound like it smells exactly like the luscious, creamy, lemony magnolia blossom.
Hugs!
R, it is slightly lemony, but not a “realistic” portrait of magnolia at all. Several people have mentioned that it smells like tea, and I think March called it “murky”.
Lol! A magnolia blossom is not at all “murky”!
Agree! But don't think these are meant as traditional soliflores at all, so no sense complaining, you know? You might still like it, just don't go looking for that elusive magnolia perfume.
I would like to find a perfume that actually smells like clothes I have had made from raw silk. However, since silk is a fiber that comes from a cocoon, it has no flower, so the name of this one is kind of funny.
These sound nice, though. I like Kenzo in general and have several on my list to try and buy.
Love that you ripped the box to shreds. Sounds like something I would do.
In my book Kenzo never misses, so I will have to try at least one. Tea fragrances appeal to me in the warmer months (my all time favorite is L'occittane's Green Tea with Mint…a winner!) Bulgari's tea fragrance never did it for me at all even though it seems to be the end all of tea fragrances. Can't wait to get my bottle!
Woman, I can't help but continue to search for that elusive magnolia fragrance! Unfortunately, it does not exist…at least not yet.
I did call it murky! And thanks for the link. Kenzos are funny, though. It's the ones like Flower Oriental that sometimes strike me as slightly offputting at first. Sort of, hm, not sure about THAT. Those are the ones I end up loving. So I'll probably wind up with a bottle of Magnolia. I have a suspicion if I'd sprayed rather than dabbed the silk flower it'd be too much. And that tea drydown is delicious.
Murky in a good way!
That drydown is growing on me, R described it perfectly.
I would agree — nobody has made the perfect one. This is not a contender, it's just a nice summer scent.
Hmm, these sound like they are worth a sniff. I actually like a few of the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria collection.
Are these available at Sephora and/or Nordstrom?
Translation: Will I be able to snag free samples at my local mall?
Okay, I see them on the Nordstrom site but not Sephora online. Has anyone seen them in a Sephora store?
Good…I really do think this is the best of the 3, although that's a darned nice green tea, too. There are just already plenty of darned nice green teas out there.
No, the “silk flower” is something else altogether:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albizia_julibrissin
I like Kenzo too. I have no patience with things like boxes…if it appears to open at the top, then it ought to open at the top, LOL…or else it should have a little sticker that says “over here, stupid”!
Kenzo does a good job in general, I agree. If the L'Occitane was a wee tad less sweet I'd like it better…this one is drier than theirs. A mint variation would be really nice though!
M, the Silk is really pretty tame even sprayed — they did do a nice job of keeping the sweetness under control. Still doesn't interest me though.
I'm glad this is an ongoing series, and look forward to whatever they do next year. I know cherry blossom scents are now a dime a dozen, but there still isn't a perfect Sakura tea scent…that would be my vote.
I like the Guerlain AAs too…often, I like them better than their regular offerings.
Not at Sephora yet. Nordstrom does have them online as you note, but at my Nordstrom at least, things often aren't there until weeks after they've got them online.
Yes, these would be great for the office too, without being TOO generically inoffensive.
The packaging does have a soft springy, warm breezy look…just lovely.
The Magnolia sounds yummy to me, that's the one I'll go looking for. We had Magnolia trees in the yard down south…they smelled soooo good! Messy darn trees though, dropping big ole leaves all the time.
Did you ever try that Bali I sent you? The cotton candy one? I dug it out last week again. I think I loathe it, but then why do I keep trying it on?!
We are farther north, but there are beautiful magnolia trees around here. Beautiful trees are always messy, it seems!
Anyway, as I said above, don't go looking for photorealism with this one.
Bali, Bali…Can I have another clue?
Aha, brain flash, it came to me! The Kenzo Bali whatever for travel retail. Yes, although only once & should give it another shot. Thought it was surprisingly basic (much more so than these) for something w/ such “exotic” inspirations. Seemed un-Kenzo-like? They've got another coming out for Madagascar, hope it's better than Bali.
Does your reference to a box mean you bought at least one of these?
I had assumed silk flower was a type of mimosa — and that wikipedia entry now raises more questions for me than it answers, since apparently this “silk tree” is often referred to in the US as mimosa. That makes me wonder if I've ever seen the type of mimosa usually used in perfumery. Must do more research… I wonder what the messy variety used in suburban landscaping is.
I have to agree that I think Kenzo packaging is almost always fantastic, and I love seeing that in any product line.
I'm always curious to sniff Kenzo and feel they're generally well done. The tea sounds most appealing to me, and like the idea of dry, more-tea-less-citrus than Bvlgari (which in any case is really nice and I'd be happy if a bottle fell from the sky). Is the longevity only slightly better, or not enough to really notice?
I sort of preferred that it is also known as “bastard tamarind”. I tis a pretty flower though! Too bad nobody can figure out what the heck it is. It does look mimosa-esque, leaf-wise.
I still want perfume that smells like silk.
I think I have already commented before now on how much I admire the Kenzo aesthetic. Their bottles and packaging are almost always a delight. I have a bottle of L'Elephant which I am keeping though I don't wear the scent but the bottle with its elephant cap (which fits perfectly) in its green jungle box (opening at the side lol) is one of my favourites. I also love the Amour series and am looking forward to the time I drain my 30ml size so I can buy the 50ml and arrange them. Oh dear, does that make me sound sad? These sound interesting, especially the tea one but I'm a sucker for a Guichard….
I did not, Kenzo sent them for review. I'll give them away on the blog after we move.
Enough to notice, I'd say. The Bvlgari has so much more citrus, and to me, when the citrus is gone, half the fun is already over. I still prefer the Bvlgari though — just that you've got to take it with you!
Does the L'Elephant box open at the side too? Maybe they do these all the time, I didn't know!
I admire Kenzo too. They usually do a good job. March reminds me above that I was not impressed with their Bali scent though.
Having only two wrists and not being a flower fan, I tested the green and the pink. They are both very light and somewhat generic – the rose one was a scrubber and the green tea, although lovely, was by no means unusual.
The SAs were raving about the Magnolia one – maybe I'll try this next
Hey, there's always the arms too! But actually you were brave to put these on in the store at all…I'm usually too chicken.
“Murky magnolia” sounds like the best kind to me, as would “grubby gardenia” and “filthy frangipani”.
Grubby gardenia could work!
I am a huge fan of fresh florals especially for the upcoming spring/summer season. His perfumes on the whole are not my favorites because they always seem too light on fragrance but nice anyway…
I’m a big fan of the Kenzo line, but it’s true they’re mostly light
O MY GOSH! I totally forgot to tell you Robin, I bought my cousin Magnolia for her bday and she absolutely loved it! LOVED IT! It was just what she wanted and was perfect for her! Thanks so much for the suggestion! I told her its part of a collection w/ 3 more scents and she begged me and her parents for the others! It was such a hit and sorry but i took all the cred! I told her once i smelled it i knew it was just for her! LOL! Thanks again!
Oh wonderful! You know there’s a new one, already out in France? Here’s the link:
https://nstperfume.com/2009/06/19/kenzo-eau-de-fleur-de-prunier-avon-brazil-beat-new-fragrances/
Yes Plum. O i cant wait. A powdery almond floral! Awesome!
Just for info for anyone still interested in these: they are being heavily discounted at retail stores where I live (Australia) so that must mean that they are, or are about to be, discontinued. So you need to be quick if you were thinking of getting one.
I got the magnolia at an amazingly low price (hurrah! gotta be lucky sometimes) and as a scent that is breezy and easy but not dull, it’s a winner. I like it a lot and I can actually see myself using up the 50mls. And it’s a nice change from the rather serious perfumes I’d drifted into (Azuree, for instance). I found the silk flower nothing special. The tea flower was sold out.
I walk by a silk tree (a pink mimosa tree) that grows near my office very often when it is in bloom. It is a light very feminine scent– a little bit honeysuckle in nature (sweet and a bit spicy). The tree, to me, smells like a tropical vacation. I step under it, listen to the hummingbirds that frequent the feathery pink fluffs of flowers… and breathe deeply. I have been hunting and hunting for that scent bottled and sold. I have found this one online, but can’t seem to find a way to smell it (I’m not finding samples anywhere, nor have I ever seen it).
Yeah, doubt there were ever samples in the US — Kenzo is not well distributed here.