Our subject this week is Zoe, who describes herself as a "recent convert to the wonderful world of fragrance". Zoe is looking for a sultry, "sexy-but-not-headache-inducing evening perfume", and would like some help. Here are some more details about Zoe:
Zoe is Dutch and in her 20s, and attending college.
She's tall and slender, bookish, and somewhat introverted.
She is "stylish but never one for the high-end brands", has an "edgy" short haircut and several black-and-white floral tattoos.
Zoe has been exploring perfume seriously for a couple months, and "having great fun discovering quality offerings from different niche houses". She likes "oddball, non-sweet, sheer, unisex-ish fragrances", and has pretty much got her daytime scents covered: she has fallen for L'Artisan Jour de Fête, État Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette, Hermès Jardin après la Mousson and Diptyque Philosykos. She also has a number of day scents from her "before perfumista" days, including Gucci Envy Me, Marc Jacobs Blush, Jil Sander Sun and The Body Shop Poivre Rouge/Pink Pepper.
Zoe dislikes cedar and possibly all heavy woods (notably Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue and Diptyque Tam Dao) and very green clean-fresh citrus scents (Hermès Jardin sur le Nil, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca). She has found that the classic Guerlains and Chanels are "beyond her", so far, nor has she (so far) cared for the Serge Lutens line or any heavy orientals, although she does like amber notes. She finds she is "drawn to quite literal interpretations of one or a few notes".
Here are some of the perfumes she has tried in her search for her sexy evening scent:
Yves Rocher Voile d'Ambre: calming, warming, but more of a comfort than a sexy scent.
Agent Provocateur: the opening is sharp and jarring, and the scent itself is too strong.
Christian Dior Poison: she loves it on others and does find it sexy, but she finds it headache inducing and too sweet on herself. Ditto on Versace Crystal Noir and Calvin Klein Euphoria.
Bvlgari Omnia: weird, sour and perfumey, "like opening an ancient piece of luggage, all dusted over and the lining has gone mouldy". She didn't like their new Jasmin Noir either, but she can't remember why.
Paul Smith Rose: she doesn't usually like roses in perfume, but this was interesting and she will revisit.
Fendi Palazzo: she hasn't tried it on skin yet, but this one interested her as well, although it is possibly "too mature".
Money is an issue as she's on a student budget, but she'll sniff and try anything she can find easily in her area, and she does have access to many niche lines (no Comme des Garçons or indie perfumers though).
What say you? My recommendations:
The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit might be perfect, although I have a feeling Zoe might find the opening a bit too strong. I do strongly suggest she try to get a sample and try it on skin instead of on a card.
On the amber front, Prada Eau de Parfum is also worth a shot, as is Hermès Ambre Narguile. She might also want to try Hermès Eau des Merveilles and/or Parfum des Merveilles.
A long shot, perhaps, but I also think Zoe might like Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose. And if she can find it, she might also try Juozas Statkevicius Eau de Parfum.
I'd be afraid that the Eau de Merveilles might be too woody for her. I wonder if she'd like lily? Maybe a sheer lily like Annick Goutal Des Lys? Of course, that one's not cheap. Maybe Donna Karan Gold would be better. It would be nice on a summer night.
Now that it's over 10 years old and not nearly many people wear it at all, give Calvin Klein's CKbe a try. It's inexpensive, readily found just about everywhere. It's a shared/unisex skin scent that wears pretty close to the body and has notes of juniper, lavender, mint, peach, sandalwood and opopanax (sweet myrrh). For reason (maybe just because it's smells pretty darned good), this garners more compliments when worn than just about anything I own. Go figure.
I think she might try Caron Parfum Sacre – very sexy, evening (not heavily wooded), dries down to a lovely spicy dry floral…
Also, I second the Paestum Rose and add L'artisan Velour de Roses
Happy Hunting!
I think that Bal a Versailles would be great for her – and you can pick up this stunner for very reasonable prices depending on which formula you want. It is just edgy and romantic, dark and floral…always good. Although she said that Chanels are beyond her, she may not have tried 31 Rue Cambon – could be unisex, very sexy, just awesome all year round. For a floral, she may like Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Musk – rose and a cinnamony labdanum…..She might like Annick Goutal Sables?
While reading all the stats on Zoe (my cats name, so I had to put my two cents into this blog!) there is only one clear choice! She must try Diors Miss Dior Cherie. It is definitely fruity, somehwhat unisex and since Zoe falls into the under 30 category, I know she will love this one. Anything Hermes will just be too sophisticated for her and will clash with her tatoos. Even the somewhat newer chocolate sauce of Eau Des Merveilles.
MY GOODNESS!!! Bal a Versailles is what all my mothers friends wore about 30 years ago, and I am over 50! Much too staid. I won't even wear this scent. Makes me feel old. I love some of the old fragrances of yesteryear, but this one just says “old lady to me!”.
How about L'Artisan's Dzing? It fits the category of oddball, sheer, and unisex, and the leather note renders it sexy to my nose at least, tho I know others only find it oddball. For a sheer, sexy floral, maybe Osmanthus Interdite, and for something lusher, Delrae's Amoureuse, with the caveat that it must be dabbed, not sprayed, to avoid headaches.
I second Rose Musk, and I love it when anyone mentions Sonoma Scent Studio — I think they deserve a lot more attention than they get!
Well, jeez, I'm not that old, and Bal's ellicited a few dramatic comments from a lover or two of mine. It gets well reviewed in some blogs for it's “skanky” dry-down, although I don't get this on me – it gets very ambery on me….check out Perfume Smellin-things, Scentzilla, Basenotes, etc.for positive reviews…There are a few out there who love it even more than I do!! Another dark ambery one I like that could be unisex as well (and cost effective) is Lancome's Magie Noir. It would be easy for her to find a sample of this one.
I am a huge fan of Sonoma Scent Studio's line…I thought for a bit of Ambre Noir for her, but she may not like the wood notes in it. But it would be a major scent for her if she decided she liked it. She may also like Opal…..
Like the Magie Noir rec, Ann. It's likely to be cheap, too, if Zoe can find it.
I agree with you on Dzing! and think that Bulgari Black might fit into the edgy, unique evening scent category, too.
No way! I'm under 30 and pierced and LOVE my Hermes perfumes.
Plus, I think that Miss Dior Cherie smells like popcorn, strawberry and patchouli souffle, which is not what I would like to smell like!
How about Annick Goutal'sl Mandragore? I like the peppery opening and Zoe might like it since she likes Après la Mousson.
As for amber I'd suggest Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan, though it might be too woody and oriental. But it's worth a try.
A scent that immediately came to mind is Guerlain's Mahora. It is quite a fresh yet abstract floral scent with a subdued woody base.
No chocolate sauce in Eau des Merveilles, thank goodness – perhaps you're confusing it with Elixir des Merveilles, which is an uneasy blend of Eau dM and chocolate biscuit??
Dzing and Black are great recs!
And I must boo the Dior Cherie as well. Not dry (picklingly sweet!)
And I have to defend the under 30 crowd (even though I am no longer a party
Hard for Hermes to clash on anyone! And after all Zoe is already a fan of the Mousson (right on, Zoe, I think we are a minority but I love it too!)
I second Mandragore and also suggest AG Duel if she wants to try a similar one.
Des Lys is pretty, and worth a shot. Zoe, you might try the AG Jasmin while you're at it.
Worth a shot, thanks!
Nutz For Fragrance, there is nothing more likely to get a perfumista's back up than calling her scent “old lady”. Perhaps you could simply add your own recommendations instead of criticizing someone else's.
The new SSS Velvet Rose is lovely too, but I think Zoe is trying to stick to what she can try nearby & avoid having to pay for shipping samples from the indie lines.
Zoe, Osmanthus Interdite is by Parfum d'Empire.
I think the Elixir is probably what Nutz meant by “newer”. The Elixir is quite sweet and opaque in what might be interpreted as either chocolate or biscuit, yes!
Oops! Just got carried away recommending SSS…
Maybe another inexpensive and accessible rec would be Estee Lauder Knowing. Definitely unisex, though it may be a bit strong.
Nandebary Pink sounds perfect for this chic chick!
What about trying a chypre? Personally I find chypres super sexy and perfect for the evening. Even though they include woods (notably patchouli) they are not always very discernible. I would suggest either a classic such as Aromatics Elixir or Paloma Picasso (Miss Dior – the original – should be too green for her and Mitsouko “beyond her” as a vintage Guerlain) or a “modern” chypre: Gucci by Gucci or the super sexy Narcisso Rodriguez For Her.
Has she tried the Poison flankers, Hypnotic & Midnight Poison? Hypnotic in particular might be worth a shot, both are less sweet to me than the original & the rose in Midnight might be different enough to try & not have the headache problem of Poison. Both are ready available at Sephora.
Good call — I thought about Midnight Poison too but couldn't decide. Hypnotic Poison might work too.
Great call!
I like chypres too. She didn't like Agent Provocateur but perhaps she'll like one of your suggestions.
Hey guys, thanks for all the great suggestions so far! Keep 'em coming, I'm looking forward to testing them all.
I defer to your knowledge when it comes to fragrance, though hoping to get there myself someday.
I just last weekend managed to get a sample of Eau des Merveilles, so I will be testing it regardless. If it's too woody, so be it.
The other two have been noted, thanks!
I tend to associate patchouli with my dad's shrine to the 60's – often too hippie-ish. I'll definitely look into this one, though! Not tried any Carons thus far.
Honoured to share your cats name
I've found the Hermes line quite pleasing so far, actually. The Jardins are stylistically quite up my alley (sheer), and I might like Hiris too – just got a sample along with Eau des Merveilles.
Thanks for your rec!
Ha, I knooooow. It got such bad rep, but I still like it. I get no melon, mind, so that might help.
Jirish: I remember trying Dzing! on a strip, I will definitely try it on skin now. Thanks! The Bulgari's reputation scares me (burning rubber..?) but it's intriguing enough to try.
I think I did try one or both of those, at some point… I just disliked Poison so much that in my mind, they got conflated. I dislike them by association, as it were. Of course, this is all about challenging my assumptions, so I'll revisit. Thanks!
How about Eau de Patou? It starts with citrus top notes, middle notes are orange blossom, pepper, honeysuckle, Ylang Ylang, nasturtium, and amber is in the drydown?
This might be a little out there, but have you tried Prada 'Infusion D'Iris'? I know its been described as clean & light, but I find its got a wonderful creamy warm elegance to it on my skin & have worn it a lot in the evening this summer.
Welcome! they really are quite different to the original Poison (which I personally find overpowering). I find these are much more wearable, particularly Hypnotic.
L'eau d'Hiver (Frederic Malle) matches my imagination of what R has put together about Zoe:)
I noticed Zoe (my bullmastiff's name by the way, no offence, I think she's beautiful) likes amber and is open to trying patchouli. On the economical side, she might like Casmir, available at Fragrancenet.com.
Going up in price, she might consider Montale's Patchouli Leaves, a truly creamy dreamy rendition that takes patchouli to a whole other level of subtle sophistication. Very sexy.
AM is not a melonbomb on me either! Mostly spicy/gingery…smells kind of like a yummy summer cocktail (but I do get SOME melon, it just isn't the ringleader
Beware of the Dzing if you don't like rubber! I think the rubber fades in Black but it stays pretty strong in Dzing!!
Hey Zoe/Robin –
How about Costume National 21? In fact, you might even enjoy Costume National Scent Intense. Another suggestion is YSL Nu – great incense and pepper fragrance.
Good Luck,
Marko
How about Ineke's Evening Edged in Gold? I put some on last night and realized it's nice for summer nights or any night.
Since she likes the cigarette note in the ELDO Jasmine et cigarette, how about Molinard Habanita (parfum preferred)–not unisex or sheer, but hella sexy on the right person (like me:). And despite her past experience with Serges, she might try the sexy Rose de Nuit if she hasn't done so and likes chypres.
I tought about Aromatics Elixir too (it's one of my favourite scents) but it's a quite an in-your-face fragrance. I find it a sexy scent on a mild summer evening.
Zoe, compare the the Eau de Toilette with the Perfume Spray.
Casmir is a great rec, I'm a big fan of patchouli, haven't yet tried Montale's Patchouli Leaves! Creamy patchouli is one I haven't tried.
I keep coming back to the hermes line here – 24 Faubourg is ambery, and the eau delicate is more floral…L'Occitane has a great amber as well. And as I was reading the description of Zoe's likes, I thought of Fendi's Palazzo immediately, so by all means revisit it. And try Docle and Gabbana's Sicliy (in SMALL quantities) as well.
I recommend Sonia Rykiel Woman Not Men–very affordable and intriguing. The EDP is much better than the EDT. It's a dead ringer for Barbara Bui at a fraction of the cost.
Aromatics Elixir is nice, and it lasts very well. I wear just wore the lotion & powder and it lasts (albeit subtly) for 6-7 hours.
I think they still make a perfume solid, which isn't as “bold”…..
I'm noticing that Zoe likes a peppery fragrance from The Body Shop, and that she might at least revisit one rose fragrance. How about The Different Company's Rose Poivree? I think that it's a beautiful and interesting scent – one of my favorite “finds” so far in my perfume education. I also know that some find Rose Poivree too animalic, but I just don't get that (though I do find it sexy!).
Good evening all! Okay, I'm going out on a limb here – what about Victoria's Secret Rapture? Not too old, not too young, ambery and floral – no citrus or heavy woods, and affordable. This scent can be very alluring yet, soft and elegant at the same time….day or night – when it works – it works!!!!
What do you all think?
I've never tried that!
Marko, good recs. Not sure if the 21 would be too woody, but worth a shot, and Scent and/or Scent Intense absolutely worth trying.
That is a pretty one!
I wish I could find a tester of that someplace, sounds like I'd love it!
An oddball floral worth checking out is Malle's Une Fleur de Cassie.
A bold choice! And Zoe, if it is too much for you now, maybe you'll grow into it
I don't remember what it smells like, but sounds worth a shot!
Huanani, it is pretty darned animalic on me, but a great scent and worth a try.
Love Ta'if! And might work well for Zoe, it fits, and you're right, not heavy. Zoe, this one is unfortunately mail order from London only.
i dont know how zoe feels about musk, but i love it so i will certainly recommend narciso rodriguez for her EDT for a musky floral, and betsey johnson for a sweet, slightly tawdry but quirky and adorable floriental with a gorgeous creamy musk drydown. let me also throw in tom ford tobacco vanille for drop-dead gorgeous femme fatale with a throwback to the whole tobacco/cigarette idea. and narciso rodriguez for him toes the line between masculine and feminine beautifully in my opinion. and lastly, if money weren't an option (or a decant is ok) frederic malle carnal flower for a really sexy sultry feel or iris poudre for the floor length satin sheath old hollywood feel. good luck finding your perfect scent zoe!
Wow, great suggestions everyone! I have to say, this Monday Mail has fast become my favourite segment on NST! I just love the logic behind the suggestions!
I don't have any suggestions myself to add, but just wanted to say since Zoe has been participating all along and adding her own comments, it would be fascinating to get her feedback once she's tried some of these! Not for the purpose of criticising or pandying to everyone's suggestions but as an interesting learning experience for us all!
also, glad to see Zoe likes Mousson despite the bad reviews. I was so devastated by Perfumes:The Guide and worried that people would allow their natural interpretations of fragrances to be swayed by Turin & Sanchez!!
Sounds very yummy. I'll add it to my expanding “to try” list, thanks!
I tried it just this weekend and was underwhelmed. It takes on the same flat, cheap, dishwasher soap quality smell that many fresh/herbal/citrus do on me. I hate when that happens; it smells so promising on a strip, then withers on my skin.
AMBRE SULTAN – the ultimate amber fragrance, in my opinion. loved it, even on skin, but sadly it felt a bit too foody in my opinion…
second on the rose poivree…
she might like stella in two – amber, it's sheer, got amber, it's kind of interesting for a mainstream release, and the dinky packaging is so easy to fit in your purse!
the original stella mccartney is also similar, but a bit darker and less sheer… but it's not very oriental-y or cloying, so she might like it. on me the scent had no staying power at all, which is my only regret.
carolina herrera 212 – it's sheer, airy, but has staying power, not too citrusy/green, available easily, weird packaging, definitely reasonable price range (can also be picked up duty free or at tj maxx).
ralph lauren pure turquoise is another one. it's not exactly squeaky clean but it's not dirty either, and is well blended and does not really smell like something that would come from the land of polos and country estates…
Tolu, Champaca and Frangipani by Ormonde Jayne are well worth checking out. I love Tolu in particular – and the OJ sampling policy is great – you get an entire set of their fragrances sent out to you for stlg£28 so you can sample and decide at leisure. They are all quality fragrances.
You know, several participants have sent me updates and I'm sorry to say I haven't posted anything yet — it's on my ridiculously long “to do” list. Will get to it as soon as I can!
Such a shame
Well, plenty of other things to try!
How about Escentric 02?
i MUST APOLOGIZE. Didn't mean to ever offend! Actually Bal a Versailles is a classic, that I should probably revisit. Sorry!
YOU RE CORRECT. iT IS THE ELIXIR DES MERVEILLES THAT MORE THAN SUGGEST CHOCOLATE! THANKS FOR SETTING ME STRAIGHT!
I LOVE THE NAME ZOE SO MUCH THAT MY CAT IS A BOY AND I STILL NAMED HIM ZOE!!
I suggest Cabochard by Gres, it has that unisex feeling, it's the perfect mix of light/shadow and you can find it at discounters. In the mainstream try Lolita Lempicka, KenzoFlower, Trouble by Boucheron…
Thanks, and sorry if I was harsh, but really many women do find it insulting.
I have just discovered Ta'if thanks to Haunani and that was exactly the one that was going through my mind, even though it would be awkward to source.
Haha, for once something wasn't animalic on me – though it was hot the day I tried it and I also had a stuffed up nose…Maybe a re-trial is in order!
Ha, understandable! I am always amazed at how quick you are to respond to posts (sometimes even when I post to month-old articles) so I am not at all surprised to hear you have a ridiculously long 'to do' list! Keep up the good work
Since Zoe is already commenting on here I thought perhaps she could add her own comments later with feedback on the reccs – thereby saving you the trouble!
Hey Zoe–
Just a couple ideas if you haven't already had enough! I'm also relatively new to fragrances, in your age range, and like edgy haircuts & tattoos (though I am a man). A friend of mine who has similar perfume tastes used to wear Ambre Précieux by Maitre Parfumeur. I've only smelled it once, but it is very nice amber without the opulence of some heavy orientals or foodiness of others. You might also enjoy a Guerlain, Habit Rouge, made for men but I think it's entirely appealing for any gender… It doesn't have the same aldehydic dominance that other Guerlains do, and the dry-down is nice and dirty. I think if it's in that context it may feel a little more quirky than otherwise. Lastly, Caron Pour un Homme. I find this is to be very avant-garde, maybe more so than some Comme des Garcons…. (a) it has the same play-do accord as PotL Luctor et Emergo, really unexpected and dirty enough to have some legit sex appeal. And (b) its really, really cheap. Good luck & happy adventures!
Hello again! Taking up shiny99's suggestion to report back after trying some of your suggestions, so here goes. My final list was close to 60 recs – so obviously haven't found the time to test all of those yet. In between frantic sniffing I've fallen madly in love with Hiris, so gorgeous! Sadly, it's also the first fragrance I'm having a longevity problem with – figures. I've emptied two samples, so we'll see where that affair ends.
Hermès EdM – I liked it, but didn't love it. Found my attention wandering and waiting for the fireworks. The woods didn't bother me, though, that could be a good sign!
AG Duel – I really liked this one. Amazed to find it was supposed to be leather – I got some definite green tea/tannin in the top notes.
AG Mandragore – meh. Too lemony-fresh.
AG Sables – No dice, though I can't pinpoint what was missing.
Bal à Versailles – Too dense for my taste. Couldn't see myself wearing it, same as with the classic Guerlains and Chanels.
Hypnotic Poison – almond milk! Amused by how vivid an image it conjured, but I tired of smelling like food soon. Maybe for a different purpose this would be a nice scent, but not as an evening-going-out one.
Midnight Poison – Found the same sharp topnote as in Agent Provocateur. Gave me a headache, too.
Habit Rouge – Didn't wow me. However, the Guerlain Vetiver right next to it did – though, again, not for this particular purpose. Goes to show. I also quite liked YSL's M7.
On the amber front, I tried both Ambre Sultan and Ambre Fêtiche. I liked them well enough, but didn't truly find many differences between them and the much *much* cheaper Voile d'Ambre by Yves Rocher. Could be lack of sophistication on my part, but I've decided to leave those for now.
Two Malle samples -L'Eau d'Hiver and En Passant- are still awaiting evaluation, and I've stumbled upon two additional potential hits: Miller Harris' Feuilles de Tabac and SL Datura Noir (the latter quite unexpectedly!)
So far, it looks as though I'm heading in the leather-tobacco-spices direction.
I'm slowly working my way through the rest of your recs, leaving the more hard-to-find for last.
So many thanks again, everyone! I'm having a blast.