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The Monday Mail ~ help Rae find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 19 May 2008 93 Comments

MailboxThis week, we're (hopefully) helping Rae. She's a student in her 20s, studying arts and design in a large city. Here are a few more details about her:

She says she usually strikes people as older than her age.

She is interested in all fields of art: music, performance arts, photography, literature.

She wears muted colors much of the time, but owns more dress shirts and blouses than T-shirts, and can pull off a red lipstick any time of the day.

Rae is looking for a calm and soothing fragrance, not too commonly worn but also not too weird. She does have local access to many niche brands, but she needs something that will fit into her student budget — hopefully, $100 or less for 100 ml. Here is what we know about her fragrance preferences:

Other fragrances she has liked and worn in the past include Fresh Pear Cassis, Bvlgari's Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge and The Body Shop's White Musk Body Lotion.

She tried Jo Malone's Black Vetyver Cafe, and liked it but found it too masculine to wear. She didn't like Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom & Honey, and the newer White Jasmine & Mint smelled nice on a strip but not on her skin.

She loved the opening of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere, especially the smoky notes, but something in the dry down gave her a headache. Donna Karan Cashmere Mist made her think "office", so that is out.

She did not like Thierry Mugler Angel, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, or Hermès Jardin Sur Le Nil ( Jardin en Méditerranée was "pretty nice"). Serge Lutens Bois Vanille was nice in the opening, but too medicinal in the dry down.

She does not like strong white florals, prominent notes of amber or patchouli, or very green scents.

More "no" scents: Perles de Lalique, Dior Poison & Midnight Poison, Dior J'Adore, Chloe.

Her boyfriend hates rose, so rose is out.

She likes wood notes, subtle, sweet spices, and tea & coffee notes.

Please comment with your recommendations for Rae! My picks:

Playing on the "smoky" notes and the fact that Rae liked the opening of Serge Lutens Bois Vanille, she might want to try Annick Goutal's Vanille Exquise (the 50 ml Eau de Toilette can be found at discount for less than $60), L'Artisan Vanilia (most unfortunately now nearly $100 for 50 ml) or i Profumi di Firenze Ambra del Nepal (don't let the amber scare you, but another expensive one at $89 for 50 ml). For a younger, hipper take on vanilla + smoke, she might try Apothia's Velvet Rope ($75 for 50 ml), but I'm not sure that one fits the "calm and soothing" part.

For a spicy tea + woods scent, Rae might want to try Bvlgari Omnia. It is perhaps more widely worn than the four listed above, but it isn't that widely worn, and it's a relative bargain (a 65 ml bottle can be found at discount for less than $50). For tea + vanilla + wood, Kenzo Amour might fit the bill (Kenzo Flower Oriental would have been even better, but I don't think testers can be found anymore).

I considered recommending Comme des Garçons Kyoto, but decided Rae would likely find it too masculine. Can anyone think of a feminine version of Kyoto or Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe?

Note: image "Letter box in a house-wall of San Giorgio in the community Resia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy" by Johann Jaritz, via Wikimedia.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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93 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:10 am

    I too thought about the Comme des Garcons Incenses: maybe, since she liked Black cashemere but had a problem with the drydown she could try Jaisalmer.

    And what about Etro Shaal nur?

    Do you think she would find Dzongkha too masculine too?

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  2. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:11 am

    Sorry, Black cashmere. Typed too fast

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  3. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:24 am

    Interesting. Three scents spring to my mind as being worthy of trying – Bulgari Black (for the smoky tea note) and Patricia de Nicolai Vanilla Tonka (smoky vanilla) or Fig Tea (not very figgy but a nice tea note on gentle woods). The PdN's are also very reasonable (but maybe I'm thinking in euros and sterling? If I'm wrong on that I apologise!)

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  4. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:25 am

    Keeping to the Jo Malone theme – perhaps Rae might enjoy Wild Fig and Cassis or the new Kohdo Wood limited editions – I'm thinking of the Ginger and Amber one in particular, which is a very nice scent – soothing and stimulating at the same time.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:28 am

    Ah, Jaisalmer might work! Rae, if you can find a counter that stocks the Comme des Garcons line, you might give a quick sniff to the 2 of the 5 scents that make up the incense series — Jaisalmer & Kyoto. Dzongkha is another scent by L'Artisan, so you could smell that while you're at the L'Artisan counter. Etro Shaal Nur is lemony-floral-incense, very pretty if you can find it.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:29 am

    Bvlgari Black is a great pic — I was worried about the rubbery opening since Rae found Bois Vanille too medicinal, but it is very much worth a shot. Rae, wait for the dry down 🙂

    Vanille Tonka & Fig Tea — great call, and they're available in 30 ml travel sizes at a reasonable price.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:31 am

    Hey, I forgot about Wild Fig & Cassis entirely! Rae, the Kohdo Wood scents are 2 new Jo Malone limited editions, both worth a shot. The amber one isn't massively amber-y, at least not to me, and might be a good fit.

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  8. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:33 am

    Try Annick Goutal Mandragore – citrus, ginger and woods. To me it felt similar to Black Vetiver Cafe

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  9. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:46 am

    Andree Puttnam Preparation Parfumee is incensy and calming, and you can get a small bottle quite cheaply.

    I'm also thinking of Parfumerie Generale Aomassai, which starts off with a blast of uber-sweetness, then becomes woody, as does Cadjmere. They might be out of the price range, though.

    Annayake Miyako is a calming incense, and available fairly cheaply from ebay.

    Or she might stun her boyfriend with a bit of CdG Monocle Hinokii!

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  10. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:49 am

    Oooh! Delfina, Dzonghka sounds PERFECT! I fell in love with that scent because it has that intriguing combo of spicy/incense-y and calm/meditative. I think Dzong can be extremely feminine, especially on a young woman who can throw down a red lipstick.

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  11. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:54 am

    Organza Indecence for the vanilla and sandalwood 🙂

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  12. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:56 am

    I love Mandragore — Rae, that gives you 2 Annick Goutals to try out.

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  13. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:58 am

    Rae, Preparation Parfumee might be hard to find, but can be purchased online. I think the Parfumerie Generales will be outside of the price range, but hey, so were some of my suggestions. I think those will also have to be purchased online.

    I do believe Hinoki falls into the “weird” category, LOL…I love it but not sure camphor + turpentine will suit anyone other than a select few.

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  14. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:59 am

    Hey, good call! Rae, that one is by Givenchy.

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  15. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:26 am

    hm, perhaps Annick Goutal Nuits d'Hadrien, lovely incense, no flowers. L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier or Anthousa Fig et Vetivier may also be nice. for a more smokey sensual scent try Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque or if she is feeling brave, Habanita- my husband loves both of those 🙂 and i would throw Ivoire by Balmain out there as well

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  16. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:30 am

    Musk and Sandalwood are the main component that made it………….

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  17. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:45 am

    Another in the same family which I am testing today–Dior Dolce Vita. It is very similar to Shisheido Feminite du Bois and all the Serge Lutens “Bois” scents such as Bois de Violette, etc. Un Bois de Vanille, however, smells nothing like this even though it is supposedly related.

    Dolce Vita seems a bit more sweet on the top, is supposedly fruit and wood (aka, a fruity chypre), and is drying down to a creamy vanilla sandalwood which I love.

    Hopefully the ingredients from these other scents are not the same headache-inducing ones from UBdV.

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  18. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:45 am

    Rae, there's a 3rd Annick Goutal plus more L'Artisan. Premier Figuier is their fig scent, and if you like it, you might also try Diptyque Philosykos.

    The Anthousa is not widely distributed so might be hard to find. Habanita is by Molinard.

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  19. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:46 am

    MAC MV3 addresses Rae's call for a “calm and soothing fragrance, not too commonly worn but also not too weird.” With vetiver and vanilla, a tiny bit of leather, and the comfort of amber and tolu, it's worth a try. Her attempt at DK Black Cashmere reminded me of this … but MV3 is much, much softer. xoxo

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  20. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:59 am

    M, I always forget about the MAC line. MV3 is their best, I think, good call. Rae, that one should be easy to find — any MAC counter should have it, and very reasonably priced.

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  21. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:00 am

    I have tried Dolce Vita several times, and yet can't remember it at all. Must give it another shot. Rae, that should be another “easy to find” and reasonably priced option.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:34 am

    I second the Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka recommendation.
    I have a hunch that if Rae gets samples of all the scents we recommend and starts down the smellin' path, she'll be wearing edgy scents in no time.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:57 am

    Rae,

    2nd the Apothia Velvet Rope. Has a white musk component you might like, is not at all floral, and is not something everyone else wears. Barney's has this.

    L by Lolita Lempika has a vanilla base, isn’t overly floral and is easy to find online, at Nordstrom’s, Macy’s, or Sephora,$50- $70. While you are at one of these stores, give Prada a try. The EDP spray is $70 or less, and you may be able to find a smaller purse spray version too for $40 or so. An amber that’s not too heavy, and has some of the vanilla you like, I find it reminds me a little of Chanel Coromandel, but more available.

    Do sniff Coromandel at the “Chanel Les Exclusif” counter at Bergdorf’s or a Chanel boutique if you get a chance. It’s $200+ but only because they come in a huge 200 ml, 6 oz+ bottle. If you could find someone to split this with, it’s reasonably priced 😉

    You also might like Aqua de Parma Cologna Intensa. A unisex choice, it has a citrus open, but cedar & woods as well, and is priced at $60-$70. (The “Intensa” version is woodier than the Cologna, and is my preference.) You can find this at Bergdorf Goodman’s, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstroms, and they are generous with samples to take home.

    Rae, have you tried any spicy fragrances before like Serge Loutens Rousse (heavy on cinnamon) or Five O’Clock au Gingembre (spicy w/tea note) or tried a classic tea fragrance like L’Artisan Tea for Two? (These may be more appealing in the fall or winter though, and I’m cheating on the price, as SL’s run $120 for 1.7 ounces, and the L’Artisan’s are about $135. but in big 3.4 oz bottles. But if you are at a store with these lines, like Bergdorf’s, Barneys, or NYC specialty store Aedes, they will usually give you free samples if you ask, and you could try these again in the fall.)

    Have fun! –Gail

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  24. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:58 am

    I've got three suggestions.

    -Bulgari's Eau de Blanc (White Tea) calming/soothing.

    -Lanvin Arpege Eclat d Arpege, with soft & clean notes.

    -Roger & Gallet Aroma Shiso- Contains shiso extract, an aromatic plant from Asia. Known for it's soothing properties, shiso is a relative of basil and mint and has a fresh green citrus scent.

    Liz

    PS-What is her coloring like, hair eyes skin (that affects the way the fragrance wears)?

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  25. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:10 pm

    I have that same hunch, A, but perhaps she'd better wait until she gets out of school and has a job, LOL…

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  26. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:11 pm

    I saw wierd, comforting, etc. and immediately thought of POTL Luctor et Emergo…of course, that could be because of my own love for the fragrance. 🙂 It's odd, but comforting and slightly sweet, and I don't think it has anything she'll really hate in it. It sounds like she's into the arts, and, as for myself, I'm pretty young to and that's usually what I wear when I'm in one of my “avant-garde” moods. Maybe it'll fit her as well.

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  27. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:12 pm

    Oooh, you cheated on prices even more than I did! L'Artisan Tea for Two is a great rec for fall though — Rae, you must spend more time at the L'Artisan counter. It occurred to me later than L'Artisan Safran Troublant might also be worth a sniff — it does have some rose, but not much.

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  28. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:13 pm

    Aha, the Shiso is a great rec, and reasonably priced too.

    I am a firm disbeliever in the coloring angle, I'm afraid, although I know many people subscribe to it.

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  29. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:15 pm

    Interesting, that might work! Unfortunately I think it's WAY outside of the price restriction ($180 for 100 ml) and not sure Rae will be able to find a tester. But Rae, do give it a shot if you see it.

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  30. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:28 pm

    I know rose is off the table, but what about 10 Corso Como? I really dislike rose, but I love this. Or for something sweeter, Givenchy Organza Indecence?

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  31. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:33 pm

    A quick thought–the Shiseido relaxing fragrance perhaps? Or even Zen or the Energizing one…they seemed quite calm to me, lovely in an understated sort of way, but still lively…although I can not quite recall the Energizing one…

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  32. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 12:57 pm

    Hotel Costes and Comme des Garcons 3 would be hip possibilites, though depending on where you are the Costes may be too common. Guerlain AA Herba Fresca and Hermes Osmanthus Yunnan are about as soothing as one can get. I am sure someone has already mentioned Timbuktu, but what about some of the CB: I Hate Perfume scents? Those would be very cool and not often worn. Armani Attitude has a bit of smoke and plenty of coffee. Or maybe New Harlaam, though it might be too pricey.

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  33. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:05 pm

    I second the recommendation for Jo Malone's Kohdo Wood scents, especially the Lotus Blossom and Water Lily (Day) one. A beautiful, crystalline floral (no rose!) that dries down to a woody-incensy base. I find it very calming! And the 100mL size costs (just) under $100.

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  34. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:10 pm

    Robin/Rae –

    This weekend I received a bottle of AVA LUXE Sweet Absinthe and found it quite charming – it smells of wood sweetened slightly with dark chocolate…..maybe Rae would like that. The AVA LUXE line is nice, has decent to excellent longevity, is fairly uncommon and is relatively inexpensive ($26 for 30m).

    Good luck Rae,

    Marko

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  35. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:21 pm

    I worried about 10 Corso Como because of the “medicinal” part, but Rae, might be worth a shot, and there's your 2nd vote for Organza Indecence.

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  36. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:22 pm

    Ah, Zen might be a good call — and worth looking for before they bring the “new” version of Zen to North America. I have not tried the Shiseido Relaxing, I don't think.

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  37. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:24 pm

    Nope, you're the first vote for Timbuktu. Rae, that is another L'Artisan, and now you've several to try from Comme des Garcons. The Hermes is expensive ($190 for 100 ml) and kind of hard to find, but a fabulous scent w/ tea. New Haarlem is by Bond no. 9, Armani Attitude you'll find at the men's counter.

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  38. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:25 pm

    Ah, and better yet the 30 ml is around $50 — I agree, they're both great scents.

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  39. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:25 pm

    Rae, the Ava Luxe is an indie line sold through Etsy online.

    And that sounds like something I need to try!

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  40. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:34 pm

    Thierry Mugler Cologne might be worth a try, perhaps? It should be easy to find and fairly inexpensive, but not that widely worn, I don't think. Definitely soothing, very unisex and still complex and distinctive enough to be interesting.

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  41. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:46 pm

    Hi,

    I was thinking Keiko Mecheri Oliban. I too, cannot wear Black Cashmere and I found Oliban to be that perfect alternative to BC. I got it at LuckyScent for $90.00. Now rose is listed as one of the notes and I detest rose, but Oliban does I cannot smell rose in Oliban.

    I was also thinking about Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere, although it is over the $100.00 limit. It's worth a sample, as is the Oliban and both samples can be ordered through Luckyscent.

    And, I also wanted to 2nd or 3rd or 4th the Organza Indecence.

    Good luck Rae and have fun checking out all the suggestions you have recv'd.

    Dawn

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  42. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:47 pm

    Plus BeautyHabit.com carries Parfums de Nicolai and there's a 25% off code (luckybreaks2) til June 30 – so Rae could order samples and get a bottle if it was love.

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  43. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:48 pm

    Jeesh, sorry for the typo in my first paragraph. I mean to say that I detest rose and while Oliban does have a rose note, I cannot smell it.

    Dawn

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  44. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:48 pm

    Preparation Parfumee is very interesting – incense and fresh spring water to my nose. It's also at BeautyHabit.com, Rae. (Not affiliated – just love the site!)

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  45. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 1:59 pm

    Rae's description pretty much describes me too! Weird… but since I seem to have found my fashion/perfume twin, here's a thought: Bath and Body Work's Ylang Ylang Myrrh Aromatherapy Lotion (not a perfume, I realize, but a damn good fragrance nevertheless).
    I thought of this one because a.) it is divine, b.) she liked the Body Shop's White Musk Body Lotion, c.) a LOT of people think it's discontinued, so not a lot of people are wearing it (I think it's only available in the classics section of the BBW website- I haven't seen it in stores for a LONG time), and d.) at $13 a bottle, it fits oh so nicely into a student's budget. I too am a student in my 20's- I face the pain of a student budget every time I go perfume shopping 🙁
    Hope that helps, Rae! And p.s. high five on the red lipstick!

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  46. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 2:30 pm

    my suggestions: L'Or de Torrente by Torrente, can be found very cheap on ebay, smells comforting, yet elegant, with a hint of coffee as far as I remember, also, sticking with coffee, maybe dolce and gabbana – by (the leopard print one)? it's a pretty nice one (but maybe it turns out it's too 'skanky' for Rae). I would also go with POTL luctor and emergo, as somebody said previously.

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  47. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 2:51 pm

    Another CdG recommendation – I'd suggest Wood Coffee and Sweet Nomad Tea from the Sweet series, since she likes tea and coffee notes.

    Second Bulgari Black – I find it very soft and wearable, too much so for my quirky taste.

    Gucci pour homme II has a nice tea note as well but might be too masculine.

    For a softer, more feminine, less weird take on incense I'd suggest the floral incense YSL Nu – that one is in the right price range at least…

    Olivier Durbano Amethyst – another incense softened by more feminine notes – is just slightly out of the price range.

    Possibly CdG White if it's not too spicy? I wouldn't recommend the über-green CdG 3 (which I love!) to someone who doesn't like green scents and 1 and 2 are just plain scary, speaking of “medicinal”…

    Possibly something/anything out of the Miller et Bertaux line? A bit too expensive though…

    Creative Universe/Beth Terry does tea scents – I've only tried & liked Te, which I think is the purest one while the others are more fruity/floral.

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  48. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 3:29 pm

    Monkeytoe! You stole the words out of my mouth.

    I second the vote for Costes. It combines woods and cassis in a particularly delicious and hip way. CdG Guerrilla 2 also strikes a similar chord.

    I love CdG 3, and think CdG 3 or 2 would be light enough to be feminine but mysterious, abstract and soothing enough to please an art student. Fresher than the incense series, lighter than Moncle, they are total bliss. As a wild card I'll throw in CdG Rhubarb as a fresh unusual vegetal that Rae might dig.

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  49. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 3:38 pm

    I second Omnia and will Raise you an Omnia Cristale. I just sniffed it again at my friend Jesse's house and it is a wonderfully light wood scent. Bulgari The Blanc is also in this same extremely subtle (almost non-scent) category. And Artisan Tea for Two is similarly soothing Tea.
    I'll also give a nod to the fabulous and extremely well priced CB I hate Perfume scents. Just Breathe is an incredibly relaxing bamboo/tea chord that resonates beautifully. Somewhat earthier but wonderfully fresh and unusual are Wild Pansy, Wild Hunt, Black March and something I sniffed in the shop that had “Piggy” in the name.

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  50. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 3:55 pm

    Ormonde Jayne Champaca might be nice for Rae. I don't know why. Maybe cause it's soft, fresh (as I imagine someone i their 20's to be) and I can't imagine not liking it? Even if you don't LUUUV it…

    I was gonna say 10 Corso Como too.

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  51. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 4:23 pm

    The Ava Luxe line is well worth checking out. No. 23 is a great lavender/sandalwood blend, different, calming, and one of the lovliest scents I've ever smelled! I've gotten more compliments on that scent than any other i've ever worn. Kelly Caleche might be worth a sniff too – subtle leather notes, here and certainly a pleasant scent which seems to smell differently on everyone.

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  52. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 4:39 pm

    I think anything by The Different COmpany, mainly Sel De Vetiver. Its unique smelling, seems non mainstream. It will catch the trained nose, realizing is it classy, yet can be unobtrusive and almost natural if worn lightly. It could marry technlogy yet feminine, and avant garde and class. It would work both night and day. Since she is student and price might be a factor, Origins makes a citris ginger scent in two grades that catches my attention when both girls and guys wear it. It is fresh and warm. It is heavy on ginger so almost seems like essential oil blend from a local shop, giving the illusion of a non perfume.

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  53. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 4:46 pm

    I second your vote for the Different Company. Rae might like Celine Elena's “Un Parfum” series including Un Parfum des Sens et Bois.

    I also love origins Ginger. I own the Origins Ginger scent but I find that Demeter's Gingerale gives even more bang for the buck. It starts out effervescent and the drydown is fresher n my skin (and lasts longer) than the Origins version. Origins has more spice, but I find the ginger dissappears quickly.

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  54. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 6:59 pm

    I was also going to suggest Aqua di Parma. The absolu is stronger than the colonia. The splash comes in a great retro bottle that looks very sexy sitting on one's dresser. The scent is delicious–relaxing, like the Italian Rivera. Audrey Hepburn wore this when she wasn't wearing a Givenchy (fragrance).

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  55. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:02 pm

    One of my summer favorites! Rae, it is unisex but usually kept at the men's counter.

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  56. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:04 pm

    Rae, Not sure where you'll find Keiko Mecheri where you are, but it can be found online, as can Parfumerie Generale. And looks like you *need* to try Organza Indecence!

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  57. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:04 pm

    Hey, thanks for the first real budget rec!

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  58. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:06 pm

    Rae, you might be able to find a tester of the D&G, esp. in a discount chain if you've one nearby.

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  59. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:08 pm

    Ah, Wood Coffee — forgot that one. Rae, there's another one for your Comme des Garcons list. Gucci Pour Homme 2 is at the men's counter. YSL Nu might be hard to find.

    Miller et Bertaux, Oliver Durbano, Creative Universe: all niche lines, easily found online. CU is the only one of the 3 that fits your price limits, I think.

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  60. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:33 pm

    I love Organza Indecence–for me, it falls in the comfort scent category, because of the lingering ambery vanilla drydown. There may be a bit of trouble when it comes to “student budget” category, however, since it is discontinued.

    In the same vein, but “on a budget” category, Jose by Jose Eisenberg works well for me. Comfy…hard to find, but 3+ oz for less than $50 is pretty good, yes?

    That Kenzo Amour will end as all vanilla if it behaves on Rae as it does on me…ricey vanilla, nice, but simple.

    El Cheapo category? Maybe slip gourmandy, and try Yves Rocher Neonatura Cocoon?

    Has Rae tried leather?

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  61. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 7:35 pm

    How about sticking with the wood? As much as I love Givency OIndecence, you can go a different direction with a sandalwood main note, like Il Colonial Sandalwood.

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  62. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:09 pm

    Ah, Omnia Crystalline might work too. I really like that one, and reasonably priced. And agree w/ Just Breathe, and then there's the CBIHP Russian Caravan Tea, also really nice. Don't know what the Piggy is!

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  63. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:10 pm

    Rae, Ormonde Jayne is only available online from London, and Champaca is great but I think outside your price range.

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  64. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:11 pm

    Rae, The Different Company is expensive but they do sell travel sizes if you can find them.

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  65. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:11 pm

    Rae, Ava Luxe I think was mentioned earlier…for sale at Etsy online. Kelly Caleche is a Hermes scent.

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  66. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:12 pm

    I do not know that line!

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  67. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 8:58 pm

    I suggest Ma Griffe. Nuff said!

    It is cheap, can be found in discounters, albeit as tester, not a lot of people use it anymore and it fits the description (restrictive to say the least) of a perfume that walks the fine line of being exclusive, not expensive, refined and not medicinal in drydown.

    Classy Pick of a classy chick!

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  68. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:06 pm

    I know it via decant. Turns out it is a “male” fragrance…a “linear sandalwood”…on me, it stays moderate for a few hours. Because it is marketed to the opposite gender, that might up the “exclusive” portion of the equation.

    BTW, I wrote the manufacturer incorrectly. Should be “Il Coloniali.”

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  69. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:17 pm

    Uh-oh. I just tried to find a source for Il Coloniali other than decant, and am coming up with things in Italian and in the UK. Drat…and I had a great budget notion for layering with other (budget) scents, according to mood and/or season–a vanilla lotion underneath, for example, or a CB or Demeter concoction over top… (deflate).

    If it were still in production, I'd give a hearty recommendation to try Bath & Body Works Aromatherapy line Sandalwood Rose…the rose in it is NOT cloying, and the boyfriend might not have the reaction to it that he associates with “rose.” Hangs close to the skin, long lasting…heck, even at inflated eBay auction, it still ends up cheaper than many recommended scents.

    Back to the drawing board…

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  70. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:36 pm

    Ii thought Kyoto as well.

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  71. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 9:42 pm

    Oh, yeah…true. I had forgotten about that. I juts have a sample from Aedes, but it's lasted me a while. Maybe that's the way to go if she decides to try out a bunch of these…I'm pretty sure Aedes carries L'Artisan, etc. that several people are recommending.

    I can't make myself spring for a full bottle either.

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  72. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:15 pm

    How about Cimabue by DSH? It is spicy, comforting, and within her price range.

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  73. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:27 pm

    I second Timbuktu and Osmanthus Yunnan (tho a Hermessence would definitely break the budget), but then also thought of Etro's Messe de Minuit and L'Artisan's Passage d'Enfer, but that may be taking things too much in the incense/smoke realm? If that is OK and you wanted to take it further, there is Annick Goutal's Eau du Fier.

    On a completely different take, based on syubtle woods and spices, there is YSL's M7 Fresh which I think could be lovely on a woman as would Dior Homme.

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  74. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 10:49 pm

    I am not sure how true it is but I had heard that Organza Indecence is going to be rereleased.I do hope so cos it is a great perfume. I would also recommend Kenzo Jungle Elephant. This scent always reminds me of Femininite De Bois and Black Cashmere but should be a little easier to get and hopefully won't give you a headache.

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  75. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:51 pm

    Hey Robin, how do we submit a request for perfume help via Monday Mail?

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  76. Anonymous says:
    19 May 2008 at 11:56 pm

    Sephora has a lot of scents that come in small roll-on bottles – I just got Lavanila Vanilla Grapefruit, which is definitely soothing and not too sweet, for $18. I also got Stella McCartney that way. She might not find a true niche oddball fragrance that way but it is easier to experiment. I wish my new HG scent, Il Profumo Patchouli Noir, came in a little bottle like that! Talk about soothing, I was practically drooling on myself. Soothing and really really sexy.

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  77. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 4:44 am

    R, I'll 2nd on almost all your recs especially Ambra del Nepal and others have mentioned trying out Ava Luxe fragrances. I'm not sure about Vanille Exquise though, although I like it I find that there is something medicinal in the background that I other people have found unfavourable. Oh and what about Passage D'Enfer?

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  78. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 6:57 am

    oh the YR Cocoon is so warm and beautiful, 2nd that one, and it sure does not smell “el cheapo” lol

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  79. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 8:18 am

    Aha — should have thought of that, I have tried something or another by iL Coloniali, but offhand can't remember what.

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  80. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 8:19 am

    Rae, Ma Griffe is by Carven. It might be hard to find a tester in person, but worth a shot.

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  81. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 8:27 am

    Rae, Etro is another niche line, a large swank department store might have it. The Eau de Fier, unfortunately, is no longer exported to North America so don't think you'll find it at an Annick Goutal counter. M7 Fresh is a men's fragrance, and also might be hard to find in person.

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  82. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 9:06 am

    Nam, you will find my email address on the “About” page — see the top menu.

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  83. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 9:17 am

    It is true, Sephora has become a great resource for small sizes!

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  84. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 9:30 am

    Oh dear, is VE medicinal? Rae, keep that in mind. And I think Passage d'Enfer has been mentioned above, but it is another L'Artisan.

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  85. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 9:31 am

    It has already been re-issued 🙂

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  86. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 12:39 pm

    Perhaps she should try the New Gucci fragrance or Guess by marciano. The other I would reccommend would be narcisco Rodriguez. Neither are overpowering and no roses.

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  87. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 5:27 pm

    I was going to suggest Premier Figuier too, which is nicely understated and calming and actually for men, I learnt aftwards. So that might fit Rae's slightly edgy dress sense I am inferring here. Someone threw out leather as an idea. What about Cuir de Russie, which is not too leathery and rather chic. Osmanthe Yunnan has a nice tea note, though it is one of those “hardly there” scents and might prove too little there to be considered!

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  88. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 5:31 pm

    Sorry – I forgot the budget for a minute there! Hmm, I fear the worst about the second two…unless Rae would consider a decant?

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  89. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 5:40 pm

    A not overly spicy and oddball masculine that I love on me which is a bit quirky – and I think soothing! – is L'Instant de Guerlain pour homme.

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  90. Anonymous says:
    20 May 2008 at 11:12 pm

    😉

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  91. Anonymous says:
    21 May 2008 at 8:18 am

    I thougt of Bouquet Imperial (with wood and aromatic citric notes) by Roger&Gallet for non-green freshness and maybe some of BlueMediterranea line by Acqua di Parma (e.g. Cipresso di Toscana) for the same purpose

    For floral serenity, if this smell likes your chemistry 🙂 , i suggest Osmantus by The Different Company (yes, it is expensive, but one can find travel size flasks) and besides, even if there is any rose in it, the boy won't ever tell it-so good it mixed.

    And to have anything for real wood may I suggest Bois d'Ombrie by Eau d'italie (but I'm afraid it is out of the budget again)

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  92. Anonymous says:
    23 May 2008 at 2:46 am

    I would suggest Hermes Kelly Caleche. It's a little over her budget though….

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  93. Anonymous says:
    23 May 2008 at 1:57 pm

    I have to add one since I just smelled it – Penhaligon's Malabah. It's inaccurately described as a spicy oriental (this says a lot about how light and fresh their scents are in general!) by the company when in fact it's a delightful, lightly spiced tea scent which reminded me quite a lot of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre. It's like the “light” or “cologne” version of Five O'Clock, without the sweet, oriental woody/musky Lutens base, and with the ginger replaced by bergamot. The downside is it seems to disappear very fast…

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