What he excels at is bold, steely, transparent accords that feel like architect sketches for a penthouse flat flying in earth orbit. One third of the fragrances in the box are in this manner. Another third are lavish, classical set-pieces in period dress, all of them good. The remaining third are literal depictions, the best being a cobbler’s shop (Atelier Grimal), a wonderful, bitter leather accord, and another, depressingly entitled Human Existence, which contains the biggest, most fecal dose of civet in living memory .
"Every once in a while you'll find someone who's trying to wear a fragrance that's not really great for their skin because they liked it on a friend or it reminds them of their mother," she said. "They're trying to wear a fragrance that's really wrong, so I try to very delicately tell them I can help them."