Houbigant first released Aperçu in 1925; it was re-launched (and presumbably re-formulated) in 2000. The fragrance notes are bergamot, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, lemon, green leaf, sandalwood, oak moss, patchouli, clove, and cassis, bois de rose, geranium, cinnamon bark oil, ylang ylang, vetiver, and chypre.
Aperçu is a classic woody chypre. It starts rather heady and perfume-y, and I find the first 5 minutes rather hard to take. I would think this has aldehydes, although they aren't listed in the notes. As it starts to calm, it is a lovely blend of neroli, green notes and florals with a nice spicy kick.
It continues to develop over the next several hours, with the tuberose, sandalwood and cinnamon becoming more pronounced. The oakmoss and vetiver give it a comforting woodsy-earthy undertone as it dries down. There is no powder. I can detect the patchouli but it is not overdone (apologies to patchouli lovers).
It is a rich, deep, complex perfume, but by no means heavy or overpowering. The lasting power is excellent. I reach for it the most in the fall, but it can be worn through the winter and spring. It is probably not something you will want to spray on in hot weather.
Aperçu was almost certainly influenced by Guerlain Mitsouko, which was released six years earlier. Mitsouko is obviously an extraordinary perfume, and no doubt a better perfume. I do hope to grow into it some day, but for now, I cannot make myself love it (although I will add for anyone else trying to learn to love it: try the parfum). Aperçu is easier to wear. It is brighter, and has less of a melancholy feel.
Houbigant Aperçu is available at selected Neiman Marcus stores, and at many of the online perfume discounters.
Apercu is one of the most unusual fragrances in my collection. I got mine from Neiman Marcus and it is also sold at Bergdorf, where I believe you can purchase it in parfum form. I have the parfum as well as the EDP. Thanks for posting about it today! I'm inspired to take a spray of it now, since I have not yet applied what I had chosen to wear today!
P, I had no idea it was available in parfum. Is it much nicer?
I got my EdP on ebay for a fabulous price just a few days after trying it with Felicia in Neiman Marcus.
I adore Mitsouko. It is the classic chypre against which all other chypres are compared. I own it in edt, edp and parfum.
I second the recommendation for the parfum strength. The peach comes through quicker and it's much warmer. My least favorite is edt.
Re Apercu: This sounds sniff-worthy. Thanks for the review!
I am ashamed that I don't love Mitsouko. I don't love Shalimar either. It seems to me that I should love one or the other. I do love Apres L'Ondee though, so maybe that redeems me a bit.
This sounds great — always on the lookout for a good chypre. Adding it to my wishlist now!
Let me know what you think! I am worried this one will get discontinued and I'll have to hoard bottles.
Hi R! What a great blog!! Now I can still keep abreast of the perf world–and you! I gave away two full bottles of Apercu last year, btw. It is nice but as I was paring down, it become one of the pared. Sad, really. ;D. Keep up the excellent work!
xoxo,
LA
L, it is great to see you!!! And where is your art blog I heard about? I would really love to see your work, and glad to hear that it is going well — I saw one of your posts yesterday.
I seem to be completely immune to the “simplify” movement. I like clutter! If you ever miss Apercu just let me know
Hi darling R! I'm working on it right now! It is taking a while, but hope to have it up by this afternoon. Will post when I do ;D. I wish I had known about you and Apercu–I have a list of bottles I'm going to divest myself of. I'll email you with it at some point (before divestiture) and see if you want anything. That new Italian perf Aqua something or other sounds amazing, btw.
xoxo,
L
L, do let me know when you have the blog ready. This one is much more time consuming than I thought it would be (surprise).
A list of bottles?!? You're not *gasp* giving up on perfume, or paring down to some incredibly minimal number of scents, are you?
How great to see our Laura Anne here!
I did a comparison of Apercu EDP and Parfum, just for you, Robin! The parfum is more mellow, richer, smoother in note development and movement, less of the top notes and more of the mid notes. It is the same scent in both versions, unlike some of the others we know that differ from form to form.
Apercu is not well known but still is available at some of the discounted perfume sites.
P, thanks so much for the comparison! I will have to save up some pennies for the parfum, it sounds really lovely. I could do with less of the top notes, and a touch more tuberose.
I keep waiting to hear that Apercu is discontinued, it just doesn't seem popular enough
I discovered Apercu at NM's back in 2000 as I meandered through the fragrance department. I did not shell out the bucks for it, but was soon gifted with a bottle from the fab (stealing your word, Patti) Cavewoman for my birthday that year! I later scored another 3.4 oz. bottle on ebay, BNIB, for a mere $12.00! Obviously someone did not know the treasure they held in their hands. I am almost out of the first bottle, but have that 2nd for backup! LOL
I love knowing that this was launched way back when. To me, it conjures up that time period instantly and was probably re-formulated due to skin irritants in raw materials, costs, etc. Whatever the reasons, it is still a rich smelling floral. It almost takes on a metallic quality on my skin.
And what's also nice is that not many gals even know about it so it can be your little secret!
I got mine on ebay too! I think I paid a little more than you did, and unfortunately mine was a tester with no cap. I need to add another ebay search for when this bottle runs out.
It is taking SO long to set up my blog–way too many options each step of the way :(. I BETTER have it finished by tomorrow. Oh, R, I'm always paring down my perfs. And there are always hundreds (it seems) of bottles still there, clamoring for attention.
L, it took me a whole week to get this set up the way I wanted, and I still have things I need to fix. It is a real time-drain (like I needed another!).
For those of you who would crave the parfum, you can try Bergdorf and Neiman Marcus. The teeny bottle (mine is a quarter-ounce) is reminiscent of the shape of the original Halston bottle, that flowey oval teardrop shape (by the way, the Halston bottle was designed by none other than Elsa Peretti!)
Hey, PattyG the Fabulous! I am so happy to see you!
Hi – I just found your blog and am really enjoying it, your comments about Mitsouko hit home – despite discovering that I am a chypre fan – I am just not in love with it. Your comments on Apercu being a bit overwhelming at first – is this at all like Knowing – a perfume I love but find a bit potent for the first few minutes? Also your mention of Houbigant has reminded of a perfume sample that I had of Raffinee a long time ago – I really liked it although now I have none and can't quite remember it. Thanks for this. KathleenP.
Hi Kathleen,I'm afraid I am not going to be much help, as I've never tried Knowing or Raffinee. If you are near a Neiman Marcus, you should be able to try the Apercu. It is lovely once it settles! Robin
Hi Robin, thanks for your reply – unfortunately I'm live in Croydon- near London in the UK so Neiman Marcus is a bit far! I will just keep searching over here.KathleenP
I saw it three days ago in Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie on the 5th floor in Harrods. So in case you are still interested, there you go…
Ah, sorry, shouldn't have assumed you were in the States! I don't know how widely Houbigant is carried in the UK — here, Apercu is hard to find other than NM or online. Good luck!