Roja Dove’s temple of scent is part of something called the ‘Urban Retreat’. The word ‘retreat’ is significant here, as the place is tucked away on the top floor of Harrods, and something of a challenge to find.
The trick is to choose the right set of escalators. Ignore the fancy Egyptian escalators in the heart of the building, and instead look for the smaller white-walled space between the Cosmetics Hall and Hans Crescent. Ride this all the way to the fifth floor, and you’ll find yourself just outside the Urban Retreat (lots of niche skincare brands). Go in, and there’s a doorway ahead of you on the right, which takes you into the Haute Parfumerie.
If you’ve ended up on the Egyptian escalators, you’ll arrive on the fifth floor amid lots of sporting goods. The signs will direct you to the right for the Urban Retreat. Ignore them, and head left instead, through the bistro bar. This will deposit you right outside the Haute Parfumerie…