One more day of comfort fragrances, then we’re moving on; anyway, this is less a review than a brief news flash, and it is old news at that: Molinard Iles d’Or, as has been pointed out on several of the fragrance forums, is virtually identical to Molinard Tendre Friandise. Or at least, the version of Iles d’Or in the newish Molinard 1849 collection is; I haven’t tried any of the older versions. If I had to guess, I’d say that it probably isn’t the same stuff as the original Iles d’Or, which was released in the 1930s. This does not smell like a classic 1930s perfume. It smells like a modern candied fruity floral, and is one of very few such scents that I really like…
Molinard Habanita fragrance review
Molinard introduced Habanita in 1921, not as a personal fragrance but as a product to scent cigarettes. It was available in scented sachets to slide into a pack of cigarettes, or in liquid form: “A glass rod dipped in this fragrance and drawn along a lighted cigarette will perfume the smoke with a delicious, lasting aroma” (quoted in The Book of Perfume, page 76).
Whether women experimented with sliding that glass rod along their arms I cannot say, but by 1924 Molinard had launched Habanita as a perfume for women, housed in a Lalique bottle decorated with water nymphs. It was reformulated in the late 1980s, and no doubt has been reworked since then (hasn’t everything?); the notes include bergamot, peach, orange blossom, galbanum, oakmoss, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, heliotrope, patchouli, amber, leather, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, benzoin and vanilla…
A few fragrance gift ideas, part 1
Perfume gifts are rather hit or miss unless you already know what fragrance the recipient likes. Here are a few scented ideas that might work for someone on your list:
The Fresh Index Fragrance Chronicles: 15 5-ml bottles for $125. Available at eluxury with free shipping (if you order by 12/14) using code WISH…
Perfume for a sweet tooth: Molinard Tendre Friandise
Molinard is an old Grasse perfumery established in 1849, and still family-owned. Their best known fragrance is probably Habanita, which was introduced in the early 1920s. Tendre Friandise (Sweet Candies) was released in 2003; the notes are freesia, pear, lime, mirabelle plum, jasmine, sandalwood, amber, cedar, nougat, praline, white musk and vanilla.
For the most part, I prefer my fragrances dry rather than sweet. The phrase “overly sweet” appears frequently in my own testing notes, and usually means that the fragrance was dismissed. But every so often I want a dose of candy, and when I do, I reach for this favorite from Molinard…
Another one bites the dust…
Molinard confirms that they are discontinuing Vanille Réglisse.
And I am curious to hear if anyone has specific information about the Gobin Daudé line, which seems to be slowly disappearing from the retailers. Browns still has the line, but it is no longer at Takashimaya, and lusciouscargo only has a few of the scents left.