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Browsing by tag: classic cologne

5 perfumes: (great) old school summer colognes

Posted by Robin on 21 July 2015 70 Comments

orange slices

If you’re in the northern hemisphere, there’s a decent chance you’ve already entered that part of summer known as the dog days. The hot, humid weather was traditionally expected to last around 40 days, but where I live, we’ve surely already had 40 days of sticky, and we could easily have 40 more before it’s over.

I’m not complaining, or at least, I’m not complaining as much as I’d be complaining if it was cold out. I’ll always take hot over cold. But this is just the sort of weather that calls for a classic Eau de Cologne: a little concoction of citrus and flowers, perhaps a few spices, perhaps some oakmoss or amber. It won’t last long, but it will lift up your spirits while it does, and you can always reapply later or move onto something else. Here are five choices, although I’ve (of course) expanded the definition of a classic Eau de Cologne a wee tad…

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Juliette Has A Gun Gentlewoman ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 11 June 2015 21 Comments

Juliette Has A Gun Gentlewoman

French niche line Juliette Has A Gun recently launched Gentlewoman, a new fragrance inspired by traditional Eau de Cologne, “a masculine fragrance dedicated to women.” It features notes of neroli, orange blossom, almond, bergamot, petitgrain and musky woods, and the brand’s founder, Romano Ricci, has said, “With Gentlewoman, I wanted to give women a dash of dandy. Modern, daring, I envy her freedom, her taste, her look.”

This is a brand that has never quite “clicked” for me, and there’s a lot about this fragrance that doesn’t appeal to me at first glance: the image of a faux-surly teen model reprising the classic photos of Yves Saint Laurent’s “le smoking” suits, the thread-worn praise of the “modern” woman, the mix of citrus and gourmand notes. Weirdly, I ended up liking Gentlewoman…

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Askett & English Askett Absolute and Askett Essential ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 29 February 2012 17 Comments

Though it was 30 degrees F outside when I woke up this morning, I didn’t crave an intense amber, wood or incense fragrance; I wanted sparkling citrus…citrus that would laugh at winter and say: “Your time is almost up, Withered One…flowers and warmth are on their way!” Smiling at me from the “perfume sample bowl” near my bed were two recent citrus-y perfume releases from Askett & English, each an Eau de Cologne — Askett Absolute and Askett Essential.

Askett Absolute includes notes of tea, mandarin, bergamot, cardamom, basil, rose, orange blossom, woods, amber and musk. Absolute opens with ‘bergamot tea,’ lightly sweetened and clean. A zingy orange blossom-basil combo appears in mid-development. (I do detect a rose note, not at all soft or feminine but clear and “ripe.”) Absolute ends with a slightly floral, sheer wood accord (let’s call it “summer amber”). Overall, Absolute reminds me of a ‘sweeter’ Tom Ford Neroli Portofino…

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Alvarez Gomez Agua de Colonia Concentrada ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 4 August 2011 18 Comments

Alvarez Gomez boutiqueAlvarez Gomez Agua de Colonia Concentrada

Alvarez Gomez is a Madrid-based, family-owned business that dates back to 1899, and Agua de Colonia Concentrada is its signature product. This traditional cologne is reportedly an easy item to find in shops throughout Spain, but it was virtually unknown in the United States until MiN New York began importing the Alvarez Gomez line last year. According to the company, Agua de Colonia Concentrada is “a very fresh, clean and natural-smelling cologne enhanced with carefully chosen essences of Mediterranean plants, flowers and fruit”; its official notes are Spanish lavender, lemon, geranium, eucalyptus, rosemary, thyme, English lavender and bergamot.

Agua de Colonia Concentrada was created in 1912, and Alvarez Gomez claims that its formula remains unchanged. I don’t know whether that’s entirely possible, but in any case, this fragrance does smell timeless, as a classic cologne should. It’s a strongly citrus-based interpretation of Eau de Cologne, with a tart, bright lemon note that evokes the peel as well as the pulp of the fruit. The lemon is almost brilliant for the first few minutes on skin; when you smell it, you’ll understand why Alvarez Gomez has chosen such a vibrant yellow for its packaging…

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Murray & Lanman Florida Water ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 25 July 2010 51 Comments

Florida WaterLanman & Murray trade card (circa 1881)Florida Water

‘Candy and flowers, dear,’ Ellen had said time and again, ‘and perhaps a book of poetry or an album or a small bottle of Florida water are the only things a lady may accept from a gentleman.’

— Margaret Mitchell, Gone with the Wind

When Scarlett O’Hara received this advice from her mother (during her fictional girlhood, leading up to the outbreak of the Civil War), Florida water had already been a popular variant on Eau de Cologne for several decades. The New York-based company Murray & Lanman first began to produce and sell a trademarked Florida Water in 1808. The firm has undergone a few name changes over the past two centuries, but it still exists; and, now known as Lanman & Kemp, it still offers this classic item.

The Lanman & Kemp website lists multiple uses for its Florida Water, including a treatment for “jangled nerves” and a suggestion for “boudoir daintiness.” I don’t know how long this particular list has been in existence, but it delights my vintage-loving soul, and so does the label on the Florida Water bottle…

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