Two new fragrances join the Aqua Allegoria line from Guerlain this year: Angelique Lilas and Mandarine Basilic.
Angelique Lilas is an aromatic floral created by perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain, and features notes of pink pepper, jasmine, bigarade, angelica, lilac, ylang ylang, cedar and heliotrope.
Mandarine Basilic is an aromatic citrus created by perfumer Marie Salamagne…
Tutti Kiwi is one of the two entries for 2006 in Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range. The Aqua Allegoria fragrances tend to be lighter, younger and simpler in composition than those in the regular line, and they are basically limited editions: if they do well, they hang around, but otherwise they hit the chopping block in short order — last year’s Orange Magnifica has already disappeared from the Guerlain website, as has my favorite Aqua Allegoria, Anisia Bella. Tutti Kiwi is attributed to perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain, and the notes are tangerine, rhubarb, frosted lemon, kiwi, geranium, mock orange, sandalwood, vanilla and woods.
I will start with a disclaimer for anyone who isn’t a regular reader: I don’t particularly love fruity florals. Beyond that, kiwi is firmly entrenched very near the bottom of the list of fruits I’d like to smell on my person. The first few minutes of Tutti Kiwi, however, were a pleasant surprise: a crisp and sparkling blend of rhubarb and citrus, very tart and slightly green. After that, the kiwi kicks in along with vague floral notes, and the crisp and sparkling part eventually gives way to a rather indistinct fruity floral over a Guerlain-ish base of sandalwood and vanilla…
Anisia Bella was launched in 2004 as part of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range of fragrances. It was created by perfumer Aurelien Guichard, and has notes of aniseed, orange, bergamot, basil, star anise, violet, jasmine, liquorice wood, and cedar.
I love anise-based perfumes, and Anisia Bella is one of my favorites for warmer days when Serge Lutens Douce Amere or Caron Aimez Moi are too heavy. Anisia Bella opens with lightly sugared citrus; the anise is pronounced from the start and stays central through the dry down. There is a minty-peppery undertone from the basil and a bit of sweet violet drifts in and out, but for the most part it is all about the anise. The base is musky and woody, with a fair amount of cedar…
More on next year's Aqua Allegoria releases from Guerlain:
Grosellina is a fresh and fruity fragrance and it is housed in a white carton that provides a striking contrast with the decorative red currants on the outer. Its other notes include white tea, raspberry and sweet acacia flower. Meanwhile Tutti Kiwi has lemon, mandarin, vanilla and wood notes and the carton brandishes a picture of the kiwi fruit from which it was inspired. (via cosmeticsinternational)
In April, look for a new Shalimar Light, and as previously reported, other future releases from Guerlain include Colors of Love, Lovely Cherry Blossom Gold Sparkles, and summer versions of L'Instant. Update: see a review of Guerlain Tutti Kiwi.
The Different Company will debut a new fragrance by perfumer Celine Ellena in May. (via Women's World Daily) Update: see a review of The Different Company Sel de Vetiver.
Guerlain launched the Aqua Allegoria line in 1999 with 5 fragrances: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune, Rosa Magnifica, Lavande Velours and Ylang & Vanille. There are currently 9 in the range, although 3, Anisia Bella, Mentafollia, and Foliflora, are slated to be discontinued.
The fragrances are meant to “showcase nature”, and they tend to be lighter and less complicated than the regular line. They are also cheaper. Today I am trying the latest releases: Orange Magnifica and Pivoine Magnifica…