As more and more department stores and perfume boutiques continue to close in New York City — a situation that pre-dates Covid and has only worsened over the past year-and-a-half — I have fewer and fewer opportunities to try certain niche perfume brands. Back in the days when I could spend my lunch breaks at Barneys or just swing by Twisted Lily on my way home from work, I had a better idea what was out there, scent-wise. (Of course, the ever-spiraling annual number of new releases doesn't help.)
Dusita feels like a luxury niche line that I might have encountered somewhere like Henri Bendel (to name one sadly missed store) if the brand had existed back in the earlier 2000s. I'm finally working my way through the Dusita catalogue, thanks to a discovery set I received as a press sample, and I'm enjoying many of its offerings. They're classically inspired, often lean towards white-floral or amber compositions, and are accompanied by charming illustrations by Dusita founder and perfumer Pissara Umavijani.
Dusita's latest release is Anamcara, whose name comes from the Gaelic word for "soul friend." Its composition includes top notes of blood orange, orange flower and freesia; heart notes of tea, vanilla, rose de Mai, tuberose and jasmine sambac; and base notes of patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood and vetiver. Anamcara is described as "an olfactory expression of true friendship," and in that spirit, Pissara invited about two dozen perfume reviewers to attend an online launch party for this fragrance.
Anamcara's name suits its character: this perfume is joyful and abundant, the scent-equivalent of a tea party in a sunlit summer meadow. It initially overflows with citrus-inflected orange blossom (for reference, my favorite orange blossom fragrances are L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville à l'Aube and Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Neroli Blanc Eau de Parfum) and then deepens into a honeyed jasmine heart with accents of peach and apricot. Its sweetness is tempered by the cedar and vetiver notes as it dries down; it's still a fruity-floral, but never a flimsy or childish one. Dusita has above-average longevity on my skin, lasting through most of a workday. I haven't actually worn it to the office — it feels a touch too opulent for that — but it has kept me good company when I'm working-from-home!
In the online launch event for Anamcara, Pissara talked us through three accords (nicknamed Bouquet, Tea and Rainforest) that she had created as building blocks of the composition, and then we sniffed the final product together. Each of those accords was pleasing in itself, but the final composition is even more complex and radiant than I anticipated. My personal favorites from Dusita (so far) are La Douceur de Siam and Splendiris, but I highly recommend Anamcara to anyone who loves orange flower and jasmine combined with fruity woods, or anyone who just needs a hit of something that guarantees a smile. I may have come late to this brand, but I'll be staying around and smelling more.
Dusita Anamcara is available as 50 ($180) or 100 ml Eau de Parfum, or in a set of three 7.5 ml travel sprays ($110) at Luckyscent and the Dusita website.
Love it when there’s a review of a new perfume that I’ve actually been able to try!
I think you describe Anamcara well when you say joyful and abundant. It might be a wee bit sweet for me, but it’s got real depth. I’ve only tried a tiny dab or two so far, so my opinion is likely to evolve 🙂
Yay! I like comparing other people’s written observations with my own experience, too, whether it’s perfume or movies or food, etc. I definitely enjoyed testing it several times. 🙂
A couple of things: The perfume was named by a member of the Facebook perfume group Eau My Soul (EMS); brand owner Pissara, in conjunction with EMS founder Christi Long, ran a contest, soliciting name suggestions. The winner scored a free bottle, and lots of members (me included), were sent generous samples some months ago, prior to the public launch. It’s really beautiful.
Echoing the comments above – Pissara is truly lovely and gracious. I accidentally stumbled upon her jewel box of a store here in Paris, pre-Covid, and she could not have been more welcoming. She’s a class act.
I’d love to meet her in person someday!
Jessica, your description of Dusita’s Amancara is absolutely perfect. I actually own all of Dusita’s perfumes, with my favorites being Issara and Pavillon d’ Or. I had the pleasure of meeting Pissara Umavijani when I was in Paris in December of 2019. She is as beautiful and lovely as are her fragrances.
Filomena, she seemed so delightful during the live event! Her personality shone right through the screen. This perfume reflects her very well, I think. 🙂
I’m working my way through some sample vials very slowly, since they are all fairly complex and deserve time to absorb!
I agree that Pissara is lovely. I too met her at her boutique in Paris in 2019, I was there in March that year.
I’m envious of everyone’s Parisian travels! Ah well, maybe someday I’ll return…
I am so happy to see this perfume reviewed Jessica! Dusita is one of my favourite brands, the ones I own being the two you mention : La Douceur and Splendiris (both I really enjoyed last spring!) and now Anamcara.
I quickly went through a sample and got a bottle, and it’s one of the perfumes I’ve gone into with more enthusiasm! I find it really addicting and just perfect when I want something sweet. Now that the cold weather is really here I find it as comforting as an amber.
I’m impressed to learn that there’s actually a Dusita house style — so many niche brands are lacking one! The quality is high and while not everything is “me,” I’m admiring what I’ve tried so far.
Enjoy your FB of Anamcara in good health!
What a wonderful review, Jessica.
I haven’t tried any Dusita perfumes, but I looked up the ones you like, including this one and they all sounds right up my alley 🙂
I think you would enjoy Splendiris, just based on our shared likes and loves!!