To celebrate its 20th anniversary, Ormonde Jayne has launched a new collection: La Route de Soie (The Silk Road). The fragrances in the collection are Tanger, Levant, Damask, Indus, Xandria, Xi'an and Byzance. Today I'm reviewing two favorites from the line (I've still not tried Indus, Xandria or Xi'an).
bergamot, tangelo, tangerine, neroli, peony, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, orange blossom, musk, cedar, amber
Levant begins with a sharp, chilly vibe: a mix of peony/rose and citrus/menthol-like aromas. In mid-development, an interesting mélange takes over, a combination of orange blossom (almost medicinal in character), lily of the valley "powder" and toothsome musk (this smells like beige, not white, musk). I wore Levant twice during 95 degree F days and it had a pleasant cooling effect on my body — and my mood — whenever I sniffed it. Levant wears down to a creamy/cosmetic floral...but with an edge.
bergamot, tangerine, neroli, rose, ylang ylang, moss, vanilla, Cashmeran, balsamic accord, dry amber
Tanger (named after the Moroccan city of Tangier) goes on smelling vibrant and juicy with the scents of oily/fresh/sugar-sprinkled citrus peels. The candied aspect of the fruity opening reminded me of two things: Diptyque Oyedo and a favorite grape-flavored Japanese hard candy. Tanger's sweet opening is offset by a mystery note that smells a bit like camphor. As citrus subsides, strong neroli comes to the fore. If an evil witch cursed me with only being able to have access to five perfume notes, neroli would be one of my choices — along with vetiver, rosewood, grapefruit and jasmine. Tanger keeps its neroli active till the talc-y base, where it's joined by faintest vanilla bean and a driftwood-like note. Tanger is a delightful, bold summer cologne. Right now, it's my favorite in La Route de Soie collection.
Ormonde Jayne La Route de Soie Levant and Tanger are available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum, €150. The entire collection is available in Europe at Essenza Nobile.