To celebrate its 20th anniversary, Ormonde Jayne has launched a new collection: La Route de Soie (The Silk Road). The fragrances in the collection are Tanger, Levant, Damask, Indus, Xandria, Xi'an and Byzance. Today I'm reviewing two favorites from the line (I've still not tried Indus, Xandria or Xi'an).
Levant
bergamot, tangelo, tangerine, neroli, peony, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, orange blossom, musk, cedar, amber
Levant begins with a sharp, chilly vibe: a mix of peony/rose and citrus/menthol-like aromas. In mid-development, an interesting mélange takes over, a combination of orange blossom (almost medicinal in character), lily of the valley "powder" and toothsome musk (this smells like beige, not white, musk). I wore Levant twice during 95 degree F days and it had a pleasant cooling effect on my body — and my mood — whenever I sniffed it. Levant wears down to a creamy/cosmetic floral...but with an edge.
Tanger
bergamot, tangerine, neroli, rose, ylang ylang, moss, vanilla, Cashmeran, balsamic accord, dry amber
Tanger (named after the Moroccan city of Tangier) goes on smelling vibrant and juicy with the scents of oily/fresh/sugar-sprinkled citrus peels. The candied aspect of the fruity opening reminded me of two things: Diptyque Oyedo and a favorite grape-flavored Japanese hard candy. Tanger's sweet opening is offset by a mystery note that smells a bit like camphor. As citrus subsides, strong neroli comes to the fore. If an evil witch cursed me with only being able to have access to five perfume notes, neroli would be one of my choices — along with vetiver, rosewood, grapefruit and jasmine. Tanger keeps its neroli active till the talc-y base, where it's joined by faintest vanilla bean and a driftwood-like note. Tanger is a delightful, bold summer cologne. Right now, it's my favorite in La Route de Soie collection.
Ormonde Jayne La Route de Soie Levant and Tanger are available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum, €150. The entire collection is available in Europe at Essenza Nobile.
Wait..what? 20th anniversary.
I’m old.
Thanks for the reviews as always, Kevin
You’re welcome. Time flies….
Years ago, the OJ Discovery Set was my first experience with a line having a distinct feel that carries over through most of the scents–and lucky for me, it’s a feel I like very much! Do these *feel* like OJ scents? Do they lend themselves to comparisons to others in the line?
MR: I’d say “no”…these have a different feel from other OJ scents, especially these two.
I really wanted to like OJ but did not get along with discovery set from the high amounts of iso-E S. I wonder if these have toned it down as they sound nice
I would say ‘yes’ to a different character overall…I really like this collection…and should have reviewed Damask, too.
Tanger sounds a bit more interesting to me. I doubt I will try them anytime soon but who knows…
Price is a bit steep too.
Thanks for your reviews!
L: you’re welcome…I’m betting not many people have had the chance to sniff them yet.
Kevin BOTH of these sound so perfect for summer. I am still searching for a great citrus. What did you think of Byzance, the name has me curious.
Angela: I’d say Byzance is a “spiced milk’ perfume with some iris, vanilla, and suede. It’s more of an autumn scent for me.