Cire Trudon, one of my favorite candle-makers, has released two new perfumes: Elae and Médie (both by perfumer Yann Vasnier). Of Trudon's first round of five perfumes, I liked two and loved one: Olim.
(bergamot, apple, neroli, ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, sandalwood, akigalawood, benzoin); 100 ml Eau de Parfum, $210
Elae begins with bergamot, sweet jasmine, tuberose and a tart "apple" aroma. Elae's apple note has a green/unripe character. This fruity note also reminds me of young pineapple (at low volume) and the scent of those hard-as-rocks strawberries that ship from California all year. Elae's fruity tartness increases (verging on screechy) till the dry down when things go soft and sweet again. A diffuse, synthetic-smelling sandalwood blended with 'beige' musk is Elae's destination. Elae is a bland fruity-floral; its type of fragrance always smells "mid-market"/status quo to me. Elae skews feminine and lasts (with good projection) for about 4-5 hours.
(grapefruit, green mandarin, angelica, jasmine, cypress, pepperwood, cedar, incense, akigalawood); 100 ml Eau de Parfum, $210
Médie starts with a burst of grapefruit, followed by decidedly fake-smelling green mandarin (think mandarin mixed with bitter aspirin). What follows is standard-issue cologne: a hint of 'sweat' from the grapefruit, hazy-to-the-point-of-undetectable "woods," all stale smelling, with a "man cologne: sport" vibe. For $210, you can easily buy THREE great citrus perfumes with more character than Médie.
Verdict: snake eyes; overpriced, under-realized, been-there/done that. Whoever is designing Cire Trudon's gutsier candle scents should do the perfumes. Or maybe Trudon, the company, wants to stake the zillionth claim to derivative perfume collections.