If you're already familiar with niche line Nomenclature, you know that their fragrances pay homage to various significant aroma chemicals, "clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions." Nomenclature's latest release, Fluo_ral, was developed by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer to showcase the synthetic note Calone®. (I won't be including that registered trademark for the rest of this review, but since Nomenclature uses it, there you go!) Additional notes include rhubarb, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, rose, pink pepper, Somalian incense and cedar.
Don't be confused by the pun-ny name: Fluo_ral is not a floral perfume. Its first syllable alludes to its "fluorescent" effect — Fluo_ral takes "the surreal blue shimmer of bioluminescent plankton" as one of its inspirations, because this is "a radical reinvention of aquatic fragrances." Despite its use of Calone, which so many of us associate with sea-breeze fragrances like L'Eau d'Issey and Calvin Klein Escape, Fluo_ral isn't a melon-and-fresh-air scent, either. So what is it?
Instead of going the usual route, Feisthauer utilizes Calone to give Fluo_ral an overall sheen that makes it feel bright yet transparent. For its first hour or two on my skin, Fluo_ral gives the impression of some very tangy, greenish rhubarb. The tomato leaf is also present, and I'm also catching hints of something that reminds me of blood orange. It's a very spring-into-summer combination. Fluo_ral stays rhubarb-y on paper, but on my skin, the tart fruity phase gradually fades out as some base notes fade in. There's a piercing, aromatic incense note and some sharp cedar, both of them still sheer enough to wear easily on the skin. Like the rest of the Nomenclature collection, Fluo_ral is gender-neutral. Its staying power is slightly below average for an Eau de Parfum.
The Nomenclature aesthetic is usually a little too streamlined and synthetic for my personal taste, but I can imagine wearing Fluo_ral regularly, especially in hot, humid weather. It would be perfect on one of those days when I need something to cut through New York's summertime haze. What about you? Have you tried and enjoyed any fragrances from this line?
Nomenclature Fluo_ral is available in 10 ($40), 50 ($125), and 100 ($195) ml Eau de Parfum at Aedes.
Thanks for your review Jessica! Tart rhubarb * tomato leaves * thin incense * cedar sounds so good
You’re welcome! It’s the kind of thing that hits the spot, for me, in summer when all my powdery rose-violet-amber things get to be just a little too overwhelming.
I agree!
I have a sample I received earlier last month, I am scurrying off to find it!
This sounds lovely! I never order samples anymore but this is making the next list.
I’m glad that someone just handed me a blotter in Aedes — otherwise I might not have gotten around to trying it myself (TOO MANY THINGS TO SMELL)!
Jessica, I own the Iri_del (the iris one), which I like but the sprayer broke rather quickly. At least it is a screw cap and I can still dab it on.
Oooh, that’s disappointing!
I remember trying the violet-ish one and I sort of liked it, but it was too chilly and futuristic for me to wear often.
Hello Filomena,
I’m Carlos from nomenclature, my apologies for the broken sprayer, I’d like to replace for you. Please email me at info@nomenclature.nyc and I’ll send you a new sprayer right away. Thanks!
Jessica, thanks for the smart and thoughtful review!
C.
I will try this out, although when I read in your review that it was showcasing Calone, my first instinct was to RUN FOR THE HILLS!!
I meant, showcasing the *dreaded* aromachemical Calone
Hah! Same here. I’m not generally a fan of Calone-heavy scents, but this one was not what I expected!
This sounds sample worthy indeed. I think I’ve only sampled the violet one and should probably re-try it because I don’t recall it well. Like you, I don’t make a point to try most from this line because of the emphasis on synthetics. It’s just not usually the kind of perfume I enjoy most. I am still interested to try the Shi_so one.
I’m not anti-synthetics, by any means, but super-minimalist fragrances just generally aren’t my taste. This one reminds me of things in nature (rhubarb, leaves) just enough although it does feel very streamlined at the same time!
I just received a package of Nonenclature samples in the mail today from aedes. I ordered Fluo_ral, Iri_del, and Lumen_esce, but also received Shi_so, Adr_ett, Para_iso, and Holy_wood. Okay, so, I’m one of those weirdos who loved the calone molecule in the New West I used to bathe in back in 1990. And I still like calone. Fluo_ral is nothing like New West or Cool Water or any of their ilk. It reminds me more of No. 19 with all the sharp, fresh greenies going on, which is a good thing. I’m starting to get some very spare florals in the heart and the incense is there, but nice, not overpowering (and I’m not a huge incense fan).
Also tried the violet one (Lumen_esce) earlier today. A nice watery, slightly spicy violet flower silk that was rather appealing. Need to test-drive again.
The Iri_del had me running to the sink, but I think I just didn’t give it enough time… If you really love iris, that is one that’ll whack you over the head! I didn’t smell a lot else going on except intense orris root! I suppose it could work well as an anchor for something ephemeral over it, like Prada’s Infusion d’Iris. (Thank you for a lovely review, Jessica!)
I need to try Lumen_esce again, too!
I actually liked some of those 90s Calone-heavy scents like L’Eau d’Issey and Banana Republic W a lot at the time…but my tastes have shifted!
Jessica, Lumen_esce is very nice, especially when layered over SJP’s Lovely body creme. That also gives it a bit more longevity. On its own? 40 mins tops, a least on my bod. I’m not paying $185/bottle for something that doesn’t even take me halfway through my day. I have too many frags like that and I’m done! I’ll invest in FM’s Lipstick Rose for my violet compulsion. At least that way, I’ll get some mileage for my ducats… ?(And I really enjoyed your 2011 review of FM LR, by the way!) ???????
I bought a sample set a couple of years ago because I loved the packaging (or at least how it looks in photos). I couldn’t smell them very well!
This one sounds more like a complete perfume than the first few were.