If you're already familiar with niche line Nomenclature, you know that their fragrances pay homage to various significant aroma chemicals, "clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions." Nomenclature's latest release, Fluo_ral, was developed by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer to showcase the synthetic note Calone®. (I won't be including that registered trademark for the rest of this review, but since Nomenclature uses it, there you go!) Additional notes include rhubarb, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, rose, pink pepper, Somalian incense and cedar.
Don't be confused by the pun-ny name: Fluo_ral is not a floral perfume. Its first syllable alludes to its "fluorescent" effect — Fluo_ral takes "the surreal blue shimmer of bioluminescent plankton" as one of its inspirations, because this is "a radical reinvention of aquatic fragrances." Despite its use of Calone, which so many of us associate with sea-breeze fragrances like L'Eau d'Issey and Calvin Klein Escape, Fluo_ral isn't a melon-and-fresh-air scent, either. So what is it?
Instead of going the usual route, Feisthauer utilizes Calone to give Fluo_ral an overall sheen that makes it feel bright yet transparent. For its first hour or two on my skin, Fluo_ral gives the impression of some very tangy, greenish rhubarb. The tomato leaf is also present, and I'm also catching hints of something that reminds me of blood orange. It's a very spring-into-summer combination. Fluo_ral stays rhubarb-y on paper, but on my skin, the tart fruity phase gradually fades out as some base notes fade in. There's a piercing, aromatic incense note and some sharp cedar, both of them still sheer enough to wear easily on the skin. Like the rest of the Nomenclature collection, Fluo_ral is gender-neutral. Its staying power is slightly below average for an Eau de Parfum.
The Nomenclature aesthetic is usually a little too streamlined and synthetic for my personal taste, but I can imagine wearing Fluo_ral regularly, especially in hot, humid weather. It would be perfect on one of those days when I need something to cut through New York's summertime haze. What about you? Have you tried and enjoyed any fragrances from this line?
Nomenclature Fluo_ral is available in 10 ($40), 50 ($125), and 100 ($195) ml Eau de Parfum at Aedes.