French niche line Olfactive Studio will introduce the Sepia collection in November. The three new unisex fragrances — Vanilla Shot, Leather Shot and Chypre Shot — were developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and inspired by photography by Martin Hill.
Vanilla Shot (shown) ~ "Deeply exotic and sensual, Vanilla Shot takes a very unusual route towards the dark vanilla bean in the base. The opening feels almost classical, with the peach skin effervescence of aldehydes causing the saffron to glow and sparkle like diamond dust, and the herby coriander lending a nicely 1970’s rigor. We linger in the heart after this bracing, lifting start; it is warmly rosy and thick with dried fruits and resins, which brings a souk-like exoticism to the perfume. The spices and florals melt away into the dark, caramelized vanilla bean accord in the base, like a brown sugar crust giving way to a crème brulee. ... Cushioned by powdery benzoin and a treacly labdanum, the vanilla purrs like a Persian kitten."
Leather Shot ~ "An organic, deeply-spiced leather over a phalanx of dry, rich woods, Leather Shot feels like the authentic leather scent you’ve been searching for your entire life. The opening causes a stir, a sour orange studded with spicy green cardamom exploding out of the bottle, given a warm, sensual ‘human skin’ undertone by a careful dose of cumin. Powdery iris in the heart relieves the dense spiciness of the topnotes, injecting an airy elegance that carries the scent aloft like a feather on a breeze. The heart is given a rugged, tannic feel by way of a noble black tea accord, halfway between a fresh, milky oolong and a smoky Lapsang Souchong. The dry, rich woods in the base – driftwood, sandalwood, cedarwood – smell slightly toasted, as if scorched by fire, but the driftwood accent also lends a delightful salty, wiry radiance that injects air and light..."
Chypre Shot ~ "Dark and original, Chypre Shot is a chypre with a very strong, undiluted character. Although it opens with the traditional sour bergamot of the chypre structure, it is immediately intensely spicy and resinous too, radiant with green, lively cardamom, leathery saffron, and what smells like espresso beans spiked with plenty of black pepper. It smells hot, spicy, and strong, with endless character pulsing from its core. An inky oakmoss reconstruction in the base is given an earthy depth by way of dry, fractionated patchouli that smells like soil dried under a heat lamp. Its growling, masculine personality gains a smattering of light-hearted floral in the form of peony, which gives the scent a peppery, almost rubbery dimension..."
Olfactive Studio Vanilla Shot, Leather Shot and Chypre Shot are available now for pre-order at Essenza Nobile in Germany, €220 for 100 ml Extrait de Parfum.
(via essenza-nobile.de, additional information via Olfactive Studio at Facebook)