Some fragrances feel spacious, as if you could move around inside them. You can almost smell their cogs whirling in a scented ballet. And then there are the perfumes that are thick. They present an opaque stew of notes that can be comforting, like a velvet duvet, or downright claustrophobic.
To me, Lubin Epidor is of the “thick” variety. I imagine wearing it in fall, especially, when its woody, fruity, powdery notes would be a terrific counterpoint to cold rain. But then, there’s a special place in my heart for dense orientals — witness my affection for Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut. I’m going to guess that Epidor will be a similarly love-it or hate-it fragrance.
Epidor was developed by perfumer Thomas Fontaine and named after a 1912 Lubin fragrance of the same name. Its notes include violet, plum, jasmine, orange blossom, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla.
Epidor’s PR story revolves around a long ago French wheat harvest, when a roving peddler has fortuitously visited the day before with perfume. Admittedly, I’ve never harvested wheat — these days it probably smells like diesel-fueled tractors — but if I were ginning up a story for Epidor, it would have to do with a boulangerie next to a florist, and how the bread baker and the flower arranger fall in love. Epidor marries the woody-floury notes of bread and a hint of mirabelle tart to a wood-paneled room thick with orange and purple blooms.
The result is a whopper of a perfume. It’s big, thick, and fuzzy with wheaty-woody powder. Crack below the surface, and you churn up a mass of flowers too mingled to sort out, injected with a shot of roasted fruit to complement the brighter orange flower.
Before long, Epidor turns powdery, but not in a cosmetic way. It’s still a woody sort of powder, like something dusted on Parker House rolls. It stays that way for a few hours, until it settles into a vanilla-amber wood. Epidor has amazing longevity. Test it before you spray it, because you’ll be wearing it all day.
Do you ever think about texture in fragrance, and how do you feel about dense perfumes? Any favorites?
Lubin Epidor Eau de Parfum is available in 50 ml ($130) and 100 ml ($160) sizes. For information on where to buy it, see Lubin under Perfume Houses.