In perfumery, lavender has mostly been set aside for men’s scents — for fougères in particular. Lavender-focused fragrance marketed to women is scarce enough that we can practically count them on one hand: Christian Dior Dune (the moody stalwart), Jean Patou Moment Suprême (the one that got away) and Vero Profumo Kiki (the new standard). You might be able to toss in a few others. To this list, I’ll add the original Dana Ambush.
Ambush, created by the legendary perfumer Jean Carles, launched in 1955. Take care not to confuse the original Ambush with the different fragrance, also named Ambush, that Dana released in the 1990s.1 Besides Ambush, Carles also developed Christian Dior Miss Dior (with Paul Vacher), Dana Tabu, Carven Ma Griffe and Schiaparelli Shocking — an impressive resume. Ambush’s notes include heliotrope, lavender, bergamot, jasmine, orchid, oakmoss, and patchouli. In short, Ambush smells girlish and competent, like face powder and linen closets. She’s the Miss Moneypenny of the perfume cabinet.
Lavender carries a lot of baggage. In considering a lavender-focused fragrance, a perfume house faces the challenge of creating a perfume that doesn’t feel too masculine to women. Or, worse, a scent that smells like toilet bowl cleanser. Even more confusing, many "lavender" scented candles and air purifiers smell more like candy than the real thing.
My bottle of Ambush Eau de Cologne dodges both the macho and cleanser bullets, but it doesn't smell like a lavender sachet, either. Ambush balances its lavender with powdery, vanillic heliotrope, giving it a little bit of the feel of an herbal marshmallow without being tooth-achingly sweet. It’s just sweet enough to pop it out of fougère territory and cast hints of vanilla, violets and roses, while still feeling as fresh as a stack of line-dried cotton sheets.
As you’d expect, Ambush is brighter and more citrusy in its opening seconds, but it quickly settles into a comfortable lipstick lavender and doesn’t change much until it fades after three hours or so. It’s as if Ambush says, “Do Moment Suprême’s complicated anise and almost cinnamon-like notes freak you out? Don’t worry, I’m gentle and floral. Maybe Dune’s ambery-mossy wood gets you down? Fear not. I’m cheerful: more like mown grass, a powder compact and Peeps.”
I love smelling Ambush, but I cherish my dram of Moment Suprême Extrait — and the lavender-inflected rose of Ciro Danger — more highly. I love knowing that in Ambush there’s another exploration of lavender out there, and one that once took the market by storm. For the brave perfumer will to venture beyond the classic fougère, lavender offers fertile ground. Just saying.
The original Dana Ambush is long discontinued, but was once common enough that you might surprise yourself by finding a bottle at a thrift shop or estate sale like I did. Old Ambush fetches a high price on eBay.
1. Ed note: The Carles version was discontinued in the 1970s. The 1990s version used the same name but was otherwise unrelated to the original, and it has likewise been discontinued.
I *loved* this review, Angela! I needed a boost of happy after my basketball season came to an end last night.
I’ve never looked into the history of Ambush, after all it’s been many, many years since I wore it. And yes, it was the original Carles version. So it was fun to read its history, notes, etc. This review makes me want to try Dune and Moment Supreme also – two scents that have never crossed my path.
Have a great week!
P. S. You’ve made me realize that I must be a Carles fan as I also love Tabu, Miss Dior and Ma Griffe.
Me, too! Especially Miss Dior. I love that scent.
I’m glad you enjoyed the review! It was your comment last week that inspired me to find my bottle and review it. I’ll get in touch and send you the rest of the bottle, if you’d like.
I’d really like that! A blast from the past! You can find me at rappleyea 11 at yahoo (no spaces). Thank you!!
I saw your message below–there’s plenty to go around!
I’m sad that you haven’t ever tried Dune! If I had any, I’d share it with you.
NST readers are so generous!
Hmmm … that doesn’t sound like the perfume matches the sexy name and advertising. Sounds rather domestic … ?
As for lavender, don’t forget those English brands that sell mild floral waters to women – Yardley famously, but also Crabtree and Evelyn. This is my association with lavender, very feminine and a little fusty. Cool and herbal, not sweet. More like Miss Marple than Miss Moneypenny. Maybe these brands never had the same penetration in the US? They certainly did in Australia (well Yardley anyway), so much so that I was surprised to see you associate lavender so strongly with men.
Great comment! I guess I do think of lavender as a favorite of older ladies–but, to me, they’re older ladies in novels who might have actually had blue hair, and not for fashion’s sake. You know, the type who hung around vicars (whatever they are–can’t say I’ve met a U.S. vicar. We tend more toward preachers).
Good point, Annemarie! And like you, because of Yardley I too always thought of lavender as feminine.
And where does Jicky come in? Wasn’t that originally considered a feminine fragrance? Or was it masculine and stolen by females? Either way, I love that one too!
You are so right–I definitely should have mentioned Jicky!
Masculine to start with wasn’t it, but adopted women later? These days I don’t know what the standard perception of it would be among general perfume consumers. To me it leans feminine, but I’m not that familiar with it.
My impression, too, is that it might have been marketed to men to start with, but it’s the perfect shared scent, really.
Just regarding C&E’s Lavender – I find it’s mixture of lavender, tonka bean and a little vanilla the most calming thing in the world
Also, on the subject of feminine lavenders – a shout out to Mona di Orio’s Chamarre (sometimes smell a bit too ‘intimate’ than is proper…)
Oh, I’ve never tried Chamarre, but you’ve made it sound so intriguing….
I’ve had that in the shower gel in the past – it is delightful! Smoother than the classic spiky lavender.
A nice recommendation!
Being British of a certain generation, I associate lavender with my grandmother, who dressed like the Queen Mother but as far as I’m aware never knew a vicar (her side of the family is Pentecostal. When she died, the preacher delivered a sermon so graphically memorable that thirty years later we grandchildren will still repeat bits if given enough to drink).
Lavender hasn’t usually been a pull for me but I’m currently very taken with Epiphany by House of Matriarch: elegant but comfortable, floral with a hint of darkness.
I love your description of your grandmother, and of your occasional re-celebration of her funeral sermon. Epiphany is another lavender I haven’t yet tried. Clearly, I have lots to catch up on.
I dislike lavender, ugh!
Love Dune, but I’m sure that I’ve never smelled lavender in either
the EDT or Esprit de Parfum I have.
I will have to try and see if I do the next time I wear them.
Thanks Angela !! Playing detective with notes is one of my favourite aspects of wearing perfume.
Cheers !!!
I don’t get lavender in my bottle of Dune EdT, either.
None? Well, I hope that whatever you do smell in Dune, you enjoy! That’s what counts.
I get a great rosewood note up top, along with either basil or anise. It’s a favorite bottle, but I have to be in the right mood to wear it.
That sounds terrific. Not every bottle can (or should) be an all-purpose bottle, anyway. Sometimes it’s nice to have a bottle that meets a specific mood, I think.
Dune’s lavender isn’t menthol-y, if that helps. I’m a slow detective of notes, but it’s fun all the same!
Ah, you’re talking my language. I keep meaning to do a “feminine fougeres” 5 perfumes post, but I’m not sure I’d have enough perfumes to cover! Will have to dig up some Ambush. As you know, Dune and Moment Supreme are among my very favorites.
BTW, have you tried any of the Hendley perfumes? Gia is a great feminine fougere-ish one, but no emphasis on the lavender: gets there via the musk and tonka, I think.
Erin – get Angela to send you her bottle of Ambush! I certainly don’t need it, and you’ll make great use of it with a post that we’ll all enjoy.
ANGELA: see above ^ Thanks!!
Let’s see what happens!
No, I haven’t tried Hendley–in fact, until this post, I didn’t even know they existed, which goes to show how out of the loop I am.
I can definitely set you up with some vintage Ambush, if you’re interested.